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Discussion Starter #1
I’ve enjoyed my 2006 Vulcan 900 Classic LT for 2 years now, bought it at 20,000km and I’ve put on an extra 10,000km.
I’d read in the forum the potential of the stator failure and hoped I’d gotten one of the good ones, but sadly not so.

It’s been a light winter and mid-February we had a 2 day warm front with temperatures peaking around 17c degrees.
Myself and many other riders were out taking advantage of it.
At one of my stops later in the day, the bike would not restart. I got a boost, got home, charged the battery, next day started it up and did the first test that showed there was no charging voltage increase across the battery when running, only a few tenths higher at 4000rpm.

Next I went through the tests outlined in the stator sticky (thanks Romans & sfair).
Surprisingly there was no short to ground, and the stator coil resistance check (from the manual) showed the correct values.
But the Stator voltage test showed between two combinations of the white wires were low voltage (20v) and one extremely low (2v), and they only increased by 1 volt when increased from idle to 3000rpm. So a new Stator is in order.
Unsure why the two better readings weren’t higher, could I also have an issue with the magnetic rotor?
 

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1. Short to ground may only show up when engine is running (vibration).
2. Very unlikely rotor is bad.
3. Be sure and check reg/rect as outlined in sticky.

Be sure and ask any questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the quick reply
(within 15min, you must have a filter on the word "Stator" that sends you an alert)

Yes, I have done the reg/rect tests, yes infinite for 6 of the readings, but a puzzling 2.3 MegaOhms for the other 6 readings, certainly not "low" value.
I borrowed the meter from someone, I'll get another meter and crosscheck.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It turns out that the meter I have also has a "diode" setting. All of the helpful YouTube links regarding rectifier/regulator testing mentioned this method is the way to go, and not to worry about an exact reading , just that they are pretty much the same for each set of 3 readings.
So this method showed me a half volt drop in the 6 readings with a value, and no continuity for the other 6.
I confirmed this with another meter that also the "diode" testing setting.

So I'm concluding my Rectifier/Regulator is good with the above tests.
The Kawasaki manual also details a test that involves a light and two 12v batteries in series (one test needs 3), I think I'll avoid that test for now.

Given that I'm in Canada, there is a Canadian motorcycle parts supplier fortnine.ca that sells the Rick's Electric stator for the 900 (and even a gasket from Rick's). I'll probably use them for my order because the parts are already quoted in Canadian $ and it ships from Canada (no border delays and extra duties/taxes to pay).

I'll update this thread when I get the job done.
 

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It may be a good idea to replace the reg/rec. as a insurance.

I did when mine needed replacement, Kept the old one, tested good. About 1.5 years later, the newer rec/reg went out. Changed it out with the used spare, working great for many years and miles er km.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks, I'll consider that but I only have a limited budget right now.
(but I'm sure it's great to have the exact spare part lying around when you need it)
 

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It may be a good idea to replace the reg/rec. as a insurance.

I did when mine needed replacement, Kept the old one, tested good. About 1.5 years later, the newer rec/reg went out. Changed it out with the used spare, working great for many years and miles er km.
Yep - I understand the logic of replacing the rectifier/regulator automatically when replacing the stator, but unfortunately one doesn't know whether the replacement part will be as good as the OEM one. I tested my OEM rectifier/regulator per the sticky's procedure (thanks, sfair and Romans - I nearly omitted doing that out of ignorance!) and since it tested OK I reinstalled it, checked everything, and it's all been good so far.

Since the sticky warns that a bad rect/reg can ruin a stator, when your replacement rect/reg went bad, was your stator still OK?
 

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Yep - I understand the logic of replacing the rectifier/regulator automatically when replacing the stator, but unfortunately one doesn't know whether the replacement part will be as good as the OEM one. I tested my OEM rectifier/regulator per the sticky's procedure (thanks, sfair and Romans - I nearly omitted doing that out of ignorance!) and since it tested OK I reinstalled it, checked everything, and it's all been good so far.

Since the sticky warns that a bad rect/reg can ruin a stator, when your replacement rect/reg went bad, was your stator still OK?
Yes it was, got it changed out with in a few miles.
After the stator went out I installed a voltage gauge. Driving along noticed the voltage spiking, pulled over, decided to drain down the battery. Start up, drive a mile or so until the voltage spiked, pull over, repeat. It was the only thing I could think of as there was no cell coverage at the time. Replaced when I got home after confirming the part was bad.
 

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Yes it was, got it changed out with in a few miles.
After the stator went out I installed a voltage gauge. Driving along noticed the voltage spiking, pulled over, decided to drain down the battery. Start up, drive a mile or so until the voltage spiked, pull over, repeat. It was the only thing I could think of as there was no cell coverage at the time. Replaced when I got home after confirming the part was bad.
Good to hear that your new stator survived. And that was an ingenious emergency solution to prevent damage to your battery and electrical system when the rect/reg went bad on the road! Your voltage gauge was and is a good investment.

My volt meter alerted me to my stator's imminent demise, fortunately just as I was about to go for a ride!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'm now at the next step, repairing.
I've got my Rick's Stator and a new gasket.
I have done the disassembly and removed the old stator (couple burnt coils, I'll post pictures later).
The wiring harness coming back from the regulator is held in place by a bracket that is behind the main pully.
It seems that I have to remove the plate, I can easily get to the top two bolts holding it, but the last one at the bottom is almost impossible to get at.
It almost seems that I need to remove the main pully to complete this job.
I haven't read this anywhere else.
 

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It still should be possible to use the old wiring by splicing the new wiring from the stator perhaps an inch or so above the grommet to the old wiring. It's only necessary to make certain that the connections are well insulated.
 
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