Kawasaki Vulcan Forum banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
220 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Late entry: Have a bad neutral switch so the ECU might not have been the problem. I have a used (2008 w/25K miles) 21175-0160 ECU that is probably still good available cheap. See post #19.

Sorry guys, hate to keep coming back for advice trying to get my bike running. Been through all the sensors, fuel system, ignition system and it all checks good. Spent the last 40 days waiting on a new $750.00 ECU and still no start. Relay box, starter relay, starter control relay and ECU are all new. No blown fuses. Battery is good. Still have grounds where I shouldn't have them.

As I mentioned in a previous post, I had an unknown internal ground in my tach and was troubleshooting with a 6 amp battery charger connected, turned on the key and the battery charger blew up.

After spending the morning putting it back together and finding out it still won't start, I pulled the ignition switch connector apart with the battery removed and all the connections to the main harness were grounded. Pulled the main fuse, grounds went away.

Now comes the fun part. Pulled the rectifiers out and lo and behold, the power connection (Bk/W) on the lower rectifier was completely corroded away and the connector was full of crap and corrosion. Upper rectifier was clean and tested good. Have not had time to test alternator yet but will this cause a no start condition? Also, can I get away with just replacing the bad rectifier or do I need to replace both?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Sorry guys, hate to keep coming back for advice trying to get my bike running. Been through all the sensors, fuel system, ignition system and it all checks good. Spent the last 40 days waiting on a new $750.00 ECU and still no start. Relay box, starter relay, starter control relay and ECU are all new. No blown fuses. Battery is good. Still have grounds where I shouldn't have them.

As I mentioned in a previous post, I had an unknown internal ground in my tach and was troubleshooting with a 6 amp battery charger connected, turned on the key and the battery charger blew up.

After spending the morning putting it back together and finding out it still won't start, I pulled the ignition switch connector apart with the battery removed and all the connections to the main harness were grounded. Pulled the main fuse, grounds went away.

Now comes the fun part. Pulled the rectifiers out and lo and behold, the ground pin (Bk/Y) on the lower rectifier was completely corroded away and the connector was full of crap and corrosion. Upper rectifier was clean and tested good. Have not had time to test alternator yet but will this cause a no start condition? Also, can I get away with just replacing the bad rectifier or do I need to replace both?
I feel your pain. I just spent about 45 days chasing my tail with a short to ground. I bought a stator, a new rectifier, and a relay box, to finally just change my entire wiring harness to fix my issue. If you need a rectifier I have a new one in the parts for sale section. My stator is a 2004 unit and doesn't have the 2 plugs you need.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
220 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Checked the alternator. Stator coil resistance between phases is within specs and all black (Bk)) wires to lower rectifier read to infinity as per testing specs. Hopefully all I need is a single rectifier.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,756 Posts
Just unplug suspect reg/rect, should start if it is the problem.

Resistance tests on a stator are almost useless. Voltage tests much better.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
220 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
No start with bad rectifier removed. Now I've got another problem. No power to fuel pump when ignition turned on. Fuel pump, ECU and relay box are new. Ignition switch, engine stop switch, gauge cluster and all voltage and continuity checks seem OK. Everything is pointing towards either the new relay box or new ECU being faulty, not sending power to close ignition or fuel pump relays. Got to tear it all back apart again and do power and ground tests on ECU and test out the relay box. This is going on a three month project and is beginning to get discouraging (and expensive). Any help at all?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
547 Posts
When my Gear position sensor went bad the engine would crank and start only if i had the kick stand up and the clutch lever pulled ,,
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,529 Posts
Just a suggestion, my personal experience with my V2K, behind the cover on the left side
just below the fuel tank, there were I believe 3 multi conductor plugs that supply power to instruments and ignition. When my bike would not start I found two of the pins inside of the connector plugs corroded and one completely rusted away. Had to make a jumper wire across the plug, then sold it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
220 Posts
Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Correction to my original post! BK/W wire (power from main fuse) on the lower rectifier was the bad wire, not the Bk/Y ground.

All the pins in the connectors are OK. A little corrosion on the Bk/W to W connection (odometer, trip meter and clock) but they are working fine. Just noticed, I had no power to headlight with key on, (headlight is removed for wiring access). Turn signals, brake lights, running lights and tail light work fine. Just thinking that the power to close the headlight relay comes from a wire (Bk) tapped off one phase of the alternator and that with the rectifier missing, the circuit is dead.

I seem to have two problems here, no power to fuel pump and no power to headlight. Only common point is the relay box.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,529 Posts
When the ignition switch is turned on, the headlight should not come on until the engine starts and the headlight relay is satisfied by the ECU. The fuel pump will come on for approximately 3 seconds when the ignition switch is turned on and will then shut off until the engine starts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
220 Posts
Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
On my '08, key on=headlight should be on, running lights on, tail lights on, meter unit does it's thing but has no power to fuel pump or headlight. Starter button pushed- head light off and bike turns over. Headlight returns when starter button released. Fuel line is off of fuel pump and pump has tubing going into bucket. multi meter probe into fuel pump connector (W/R wire-power from fuel pump relay) and no power at all with key turned on.

Key on - All fuses have battery voltage and are good

Fuel pump voltage test as per service manual=failed

Good battery voltage to ignition switch and meter unit

Need to check ignition (GY) wire from ignition switch to ECU for battery power and air switching valve in the morning. Was going to do it tonight but had to watch the Royals beat the Brewers again. (Distractions)

Hope I'm not shooting myself in the foot, but I'm doing these checks with BOTH RECTIFIERS REMOVED. Shouldn't affect what I'm doing but I'm waiting for a new (used) one to arrive. 2 for the price of 1 on the local auction site and guaranteed to work or my money back.

Kawasaki needs to publish a schematic/wiring diagram of the ECU so all the wiring shown doesn't end up in the black hole.

My biggest problem with this whole problem is my eyesight. I can't read the wiring diagram without a 10X magnifier, my tri-focal glasses and lots of ibuprophen. Distance is great but close up really sucks. Wonder if the local print shop could blow up the diagram to about poster size and print it on heavy paper? I'll frame that sucker and hang it in the garage.

I appreciate all the help from everyone. Thanks, Bob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
220 Posts
Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Bandit101 was right about the headlight, Sorry.

Just tried the side stand up and clutch in and I'll be damned if it didn't START AND RUN! Bike is on the jack so I left the side stand up and let out the clutch and she stayed running. Kicked the side stand down and it died. Restarted and shifted to first gear, then to second gear and back to neutral and checked neutral switch, goes to ground as it should. Couldn't run it very long as the rectifiers are out. It's down to the side stand switch or the starter lock-out switch at this point.

One hour later:

Side stand up=side stand switch on=continuity across switch, side stand down=switch open=no contact=switch is operating OK

Neutral switch=bike in neutral=switch is grounded=switch is OK. Also, LG wire from neutral switch connector to ECU reading to ground (normal?).

Starter lock-out switch=clutch out=switch off (open), clutch in=switch on (closed). Operating normally.

Bike will start with the side stand up regardless of starter lock-out switch (clutch handle) position. With the side stand up, the switch is on (closed) and provides a ground to the GW wire between the starter lock-out switch and the relay box. When the side stand is put down, motor stops and will not re-start until it's back up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
220 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
It runs but it's not fixed. Bike won't start or run at all with the side stand down.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,089 Posts
Someone mentioned it earlier...maybe something with the gear position sensor?

The details of that seem sketchy in the service manual. It mentions one in the tranny section, I think, but don't recall seeing it in the schematic or maybe I missed it.

I know that mine will shut off, even with clutch lever pulled in, if I put the side stand down while it's in gear. Haven't tried a resistor mod or whacked out the sensor contact with the Euro gear install?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
220 Posts
Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
The resistor mod doesn't work and is not needed on my '08. I'm going to check the actual resistance from the gear position sensor (neutral switch). When I did the euro-gears, I did remove the sensor to clean transmission mating surfaces prior to reassembly and the contact spring and pin were in place prior to reassembly.

The gear position sensor in the transmission is a round sensor that looks like some type of potentiometer with five different contact points (one for each gear) and a blank spot for neutral, with one wire coming out and going to the ECU. In the neutral position it should read straight to ground and I assume with decreasing resistance to ground as the gears are up shifted to change the input to the ECU. If the sensor is bad, in neutral, it would indicate continuity (as per service manual test) but have some resistance to ground and throw the whole system off.

Really don't want to do another tear down to change the sensor but if it's bad I'm going to have to. Price of the sensor, $40.00 worth of gaskets, $60.00 worth of oil (maybe), another two weeks waiting for parts and a lot of work. A fun time will be had by all!

By the way, does anyone have a link or part number for a replacement female connecter for the rectifier/regulator?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
220 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
I guess it's tear down time again. Neutral switch showed continuity to ground but actual resistance is 560 ohms. ECU is missing the ground signal from the switch and is seeing bike is in gear. Switch is grounded by the mounting screws to the transmission case. Thanks for the clues.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
220 Posts
Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Ordered an new neutral switch and gaskets this morning. Also, contacted aeromotive for a new lower rectifier connector. Not going to start teardown until my new rectifiers get here Monday and I can start and check the charging system. Will post results.

One other thing, if the neutral switch was the problem all along, I'm gonna be really pissed off at myself ($750.00 worth) and I MIGHT HAVE A GOOD 21175-0160 ECU FOR A 2008-2010 V2K AVAILABLE CHEAP. I'm not going to tear down the ECU compartment to check my old ECU out since I have a new one installed and it's non-returnable. Shoot me a P.M. if interested. If it doesn't work, it doesn't cost anything but a little time and postage. New ECU took six weeks of riding time to get here on a slow boat from the orient.
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top