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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've done numerous bikes modifications without an issue. No longer. I performed the gear position resistor mod, the AIS resistor mod, and relocated a crankcase breather to just under the front of the tank and below the top frame.

I did all these at the same time which was a mistake. I had a lot of resistors and tested to ensure I had the right ones but for the AIS which needed a 22 ohm, 1 watt resistor I must have used a 22 ohm, .25 watt resistor.

On my test run I heard a high pitched sound from under the tank which I assumed to be the breather for some reason, like air pushing through a small opening. When my bike conked out 12 blocks from my house I knew something was up as there was smoke coming from under my tank. 12 blocks pushing mostly uphill home, having to be a foot away from the machine as these Beetlebags are bloody wide, was a fantastic workout.

I melted the resistor apart. I quickly changed the wire and reinstalled the AIS without any plumbing to get the proper resistance and thought I would be good to go.

My ECU fuse blew upon turning on the key and my gauge fuse blew when I turned the kill switch to run.

Testing showed I had a short to ground fault as I had 13 volts going into my frame from ground.

In short, I tore apart my wiring harness looking for the bad wire, and unplugged everything one at a time while testing to find the problem.

It was an internal short in my rectifier. I ordered a new rectifier (couldn't find used for the 2004), ordered a used 2004 ECU (bacon on a skillet is what mine sounded like as I pumped 13 volts into it through the ground wire, and bought a new battery as this fault killed mine past the point of no return.

Hopefully nothing else was cooked. There is a slight chance that my error just pushed a bad rectifier over the edge but the point is that I screwed up. As embarrassing as this is I just hope this post helps somebody else to NOT make any similar mistake.
 

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Bike Of The Year Winner, 2012
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Yeppers.. I learned the hard way to limit myself to one thing at a time.

Mind if we ask what the cost fall-out is?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeppers.. I learned the hard way to limit myself to one thing at a time.

Mind if we ask what the cost fall-out is?
Of course I don't mind.

ECU with shipping, 370 US
Rectifier with shipping, 130 US
Battery, 100 US

Now convert to Canadian.

The real cost is my pride. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
On another note, is anyone interested in a brand new K&N filter for the stock airbox? It's got 12 blocks usage and no crankcase gases vented onto it. :)

I'm thinking about changing to a spike air filter.
 

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BOTM Winner, May 2015
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Of course I don't mind.

ECU with shipping, 370 US
Rectifier with shipping, 130 US
Battery, 100 US

Now convert to Canadian.

The real cost is my pride. :)
Pride is usually the costliest.;) takes a man to admit the hick up!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Update:

I thought I had it fixed. Bought a new rectifier (didn't need it) and a used 2004 ECU (which I needed).

Turns out I have an issue with or leading to the alternator. I have continuity between all the alternator wires (three black wires from the rectifier) and ground where there should be none.
Best case is just the wiring has an issue. Best cases haven't been happening lately however. I will probe deeper tomorrow.
 

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You say you didn't need the rectifier. Did you swap it out and discover that or o something else that then ruled out the rectifier and didn't need to swap?

I replaced the bottom rectifier on my 2008 last spring. I replaced the connector as well. As usual, the top one was pristine, the bottom one had the dreaded corrosion not both the rectifier and connector. They were beyond repair. I wasn't having any problems, just doing the recommended check. The increased resistance from the corrosion pretty much deteriorated a couple of the male and female pins to the point I was surprised it hadn't already failed on me.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
You say you didn't need the rectifier. Did you swap it out and discover that or o something else that then ruled out the rectifier and didn't need to swap?

I replaced the bottom rectifier on my 2008 last spring. I replaced the connector as well. As usual, the top one was pristine, the bottom one had the dreaded corrosion not both the rectifier and connector. They were beyond repair. I wasn't having any problems, just doing the recommended check. The increased resistance from the corrosion pretty much deteriorated a couple of the male and female pins to the point I was surprised it hadn't already failed on me.
I just checked my ground fault when I unplugged the regulator/rectifier and it vanished so I mistakenly thought that was the issue. When I hooked up the new unit it was back. That's when I did a continuity test on the alternator. Being the only part of the harness that goes into the engine it was the last thing I checked unfortunately. I am guessing that my alternator is now the same color as my battery. Black.
 

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BOTM Winner, October 2016
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Before getting a new alternator, check your ground cables (black /yellow). I replaced my lower rectifier last year and got stranded this year. Thought it was time to swap and relocate. When I did my Relocation I found my ground wires to both r/r's had corroded. Both connect to a thicker ground cable just above the horn on the left side of the bike.
 

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