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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I really need a new air filter. I know that the stock ones work, but paying 36 bucks for a new stock seems silly. I have been looking at a few different styles of aftermarket ones.

I like the look of the Thunder Mfg Tornado air kit. It would seem to me that having that shape would work like a ram air and force the air in more. But it also seems like it might be kinda in the way of my leg.


I like the Arlenn Ness style too. I know it will pull in air too, just not force it in. But I don't know if they use a K&N filter. So if I ever did need to replace it, how easy it would be.

I know that Baron use the K&N brand filters for sure. So that answers that ?'s

And unless you have dyno'd a bike with all of these filters you can only guess on the change that they may make.

I just know right now I can't get above 40 mpg. I turned down my Cobra Fi2000 to see if it would help. And the first tank after doing that I barely got over 36. :mad:I am tempted to pull the cobra Fi2000 til I get a better filter in where I will actually need it. I want to see the 50+ some of you guys are talking about. Now its not even about saving money, its about having to stop to fill up. I miss my little Ninja 250 with the 70mpg I could do with a 4.5 gal tank. 300 miles to a fill was awesome. This 150 is BS.

Also what is the easiest and cheapest way to take care of the breather hose. Put a filter on it. does it have to be a special filter?
 

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The Ness uses a K&N filter like the rest of them. Replacement cost is around $55, but if you drop $14.95 on their filter cleaner kit the filter should last as long as the bike.
 

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You should be getting better than 40mpg. I get 43-45 around town and 50 highway if I stay below 70mph (47mpg above 70mph). I also have the Fi2000. I don't want to look at dirty air filters so I took a different tact. I moved the intake rubber widget from the part of the airbox that's between the cylinders to the front of the airbox below the idle screw. Cut the breather hose, cap airbox hole. I got a small breather from the auto store. Put filter on the hose and rotate it up under the fuel tank. I then removed the OEM filter media and replaced with oiled UNI Foam. I have both 40 and 60 PPI foam to play with, $12/sheet. It's washable and I can get about 4 filters from each sheet. The screen on the OEM filter is very restrictive so that had to go also. Here's my first try:


Relocated air inlet:
 

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Baitis......where did you get that air box cover? I really want to replace the stock cover and will be doing the mod you described. Sooooo much cheaper than a whole new air cleaner. Thanks for the info.
 

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It's an HD cover that came out new last year, $55. Fits perfect over the cheesy dimples on the OEM cover. I used a Rotozip for the air inlet..but it was tricky not to destroy the housing. The 60 and 40 PPI (pores per inch) foam will flow more air than a 900 can use. I did a lot of homework on filtration capability of various media and flow rates. Couldn't find any reason not to use an oiled foam filter. I recommend a fuel processor if you use the foam since it will flow massive amounts of air...and it's quiet (unlike the aftermarket stuff) since it's inside a housing. BTW - if you use foam you need to put a screen on both sides to hold the foam in place.
 

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It's an HD cover that came out new last year, $55. Fits perfect over the cheesy dimples on the OEM cover. I used a Rotozip for the air inlet..but it was tricky not to destroy the housing. The 60 and 40 PPI (pores per inch) foam will flow more air than a 900 can use. I did a lot of homework on filtration capability of various media and flow rates. Couldn't find any reason not to use an oiled foam filter. I recommend a fuel processor if you use the foam since it will flow massive amounts of air...and it's quiet (unlike the aftermarket stuff) since it's inside a housing. BTW - if you use foam you need to put a screen on both sides to hold the foam in place.
YOU ARE THE MAN!!!!!!! :D Thanks for the info.
 

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Has any one used the thunder mfg tornado air kit? I really like the look of this one, they have a chrome cover for it that really brings it home!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So baitis where did you pick up a sheet of that oilable foam? And which one worked better the 40 or 60? And what is the difference between the two period? With the way you moded it you can't leave the breather hose in place? or do you have to use a seperate filter for it now?
 

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Jace - I ordered the foam, oil and cleaner online. I just did a search for UNI Foam. I've only had the 60ppi in the bike for a few miles around town. The 40ppi is better than stock but I haven't had room to open it up with the 60ppi yet. I used a small breather filter from the auto store ($8). Shorten the tube and swing it up under the fuel tank out of the weather.
 

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I went a little different route. I installed a K&N elemnt into the stock Kawi filter frame and it it's working like a champ (No air manager do-dad needed).

 

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One point to consider about flat foam vs pleated filter elements, all of those pleats mean more surface area, which is key to good air flow.

Rollingbones, what did you use to seal the K&N element? Hopefully K&N eventually comes out with a stock replacement.
 

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One point to consider about flat foam vs pleated filter elements, all of those pleats mean more surface area, which is key to good air flow.

Rollingbones, what did you use to seal the K&N element? Hopefully K&N eventually comes out with a stock replacement.

You're correct to a point. The flat foam flows more air than the stock throttle body and cam can use. Without a bigger throttle body and cam change there's only so much you can do with the 900 engine....except by adding nitrous. I have K&N in my 3 cages. Now after researching air flow testing I find that the K&N performance degrades significantly as they start getting dirty. K&N started the filter race but there's some tough competition out there now.
 

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I used a roofing sealent to seal the element on the edges. K&N will not be making a filter for the 900. I asked outright.
As for the K&N "degrading", I'm not sure what you mean Baitis. I have K&N's on my two cages and use the cleaning kit periodically and they work just fine. I don't doubt there are other filters that work as good, but the K&N works great. Baker's choice I guess.
 

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I had come across some filter tests in my travels and the K&N air flow dropped off faster than the other media types/brands tested. The K&N usually had initial higher flow rates but as it got dirty flow dropped off faster the others. I suspect the drop was due to the main characteristic that makes it initially flow better - it's really thin material. As such, any dirt starts plugging the pores. Unlike thicker cotten based or foam media there's many more pores to trap dirt yet not impede flow for a much longer time. The result is more consistent performance over a longer period between cleanings. K&N isn't going to make a 900 filter. Performance gain is marginal so the only benefit is that it's reuseable. Unfortunately, non of K&N's competitors are jumping in to make a 900 filter either.
 

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Yeah I know. I've looked and looked. I'm not that interested in replacing the whole filter assembly along with getting a fuel/air regulator. I just want a better filter and when I find one, I'll get it. I guess the reason they don't want to make one is that they think the intake system isn't big enough to make that much of a differance. Yeah..Right!!! As for the K&N, the filter is easy to access, easy to clean and back in service quickly and still better than stock. If for no other reason, 30 smackers every 4-6000 miles just doesn't work for me, so I'll just clean and re-oil the K&N about every 5000 miles and see how it goes.
 

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Yea, the stock filter prices is a joke. I was headed the route of putting a K&N elemeent in the stock frame until I did some research and came across the foam. For the cost of a K&N I have 8 washable filters. With the air intake being relocated to the front of the airbox I swap filters after being caught in the rain and picking up all the road spray.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I guess I can sorta see K&N point in that it wouldn't increase power that much on our bike. But since when does a company care about that kinda stuff, if they made it, it would sell. I have a Cobra Fi, (PO put it in after putting on pipes) and right now it isn't doing me a whole lot of good. I think butchering my stock filter and doing the foam makes the most sense. And maybe even relocating the air boot. like baitis and rollingbones did. I have already pulled the air boot.

My biggest complaint is that I am getting barely 40 mpg. Now this next tank might be better, cuz it was more true cruising and I had my wife on back. And my last two bikes I would get better mileage with her on back. Seems to create a wedge shape for the air flow/drag.

I am not as concerned about power or about saving the planet by using less fossil fuels. I just want to go longer distances between fuel ups.

And right now the stock filter is nasty, and I want to find a better alternative. And for K&N and Uni-filter not to make a drop in is just dumb. I have a feeling that this bike is going to be in production for awhile.

I like the idea of making the filter work with the foam. Baitis you said that you have both 40 and 60 ppi. I am assuming that the 60ppi will have higher air flow then the 40. But they have listed one that does 65ppi, not a huge difference, but... Do you think that opening a hole in the front of the box is necessary?

Uni-foam on their site had some filter box plugs that would allow air in but filter out the bad stuff. Then you would just pop that out and replace it with a clean one and clean the one you removed. Or if you were on the road and got trapped in a bad storm you could swap them as you go. http://www.unifilter.com/online%20catalog/accessories.html

Baitis what did you do to hold the screen in place? I see from the pics and what you have said, that you used two pieces of screen and sandwiched the foam between them. But what is holding it do the plastic filter rack?

Also does anybody happean to have an extra screw to hold the airfilter cover on? I didn't tighten one of mine well enough and it fell out.
 

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Jace, you should be getting better than 40mpg even around town. I get 43-45 around town and 50mpg highway under 70mph. Above 70 I get 48mpg. I ran 700 miles from Baltimore to Syracuse, NY (round trip) mostly around 80mph and got 48+ with the 40ppi filter. I relocated the air intake looking for cooler air. I have a temp sensor but haven't gotten around to checking the difference in temp.

I'm currently running the 60 ppi but do have concerns about dirt getting through the oiled foam. Since I typically don't ride in dirty environments it's only a small concern for now. The 60 is next to using no filter. The 40ppi is thicker and probably what I'll be leaving in the bike...but I had to experiment.

I do a lot of drag racing (currently running low 9's) so I'm used to playing with fuel/air mixtures. One thing about pore size and flow rates is that no studies have been done to determine what size particles are detrimental to cylinder wear.

My screens are held together with 2 pieces bailing wire, I have a few miles of the stuff. Not pretty but the wire was handy. Eventually I'll make pretty, and I bought a spare OEM filter in case I screw things up.
 
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