Kawasaki Vulcan Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2012 with 150 miles. The ticking is really worrying me. Also there is a whining noise , sounds like maybe the belt , I was told it's gone do that till it's broke in. I was wondering if I need to check these now? And other maintenance I need to worry about? O and when do u suggest first oil change? Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
I have a 2013 that had similar sounds when I first got it. These engines seem to be noisy. The more miles I put on it the quieter it gets. I had a squeal near the front of the bike that I thought was the belt. It turned out to be the front axle nut wasn't torqued to spec (lousy service department) all is well now. I get the whine as well but it is what I believe an inherent sound of the transmission. For what I have read about these bikes they seem to be pretty much bullet proof.. Give it a few more miles to break in.
I changed my oil at about 35 miles to get the metal out of the oil that the filter missed then at 600 miles. I went to 20w50 on the second change and the motor quieted down a bit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I appreciate the info. I was thinking about doin my first oil change early for the same reason. Did u go with full synthetic? And what filter do u prefer? Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
347 Posts
I did my first change on my 2012 at around 200km (yes, two-hundred km) with a new Kawi filter. Then again at around 1,000km...then normal schedule.

Yup, I am/was a bit paranoid about the break-in crud in the first changes.

Cheap insurance for me, and it also allowed me to bond with the bike, mechanically speaking.

There is a Kawi whine that always comes from the bike (similar to my old Yamaha Maxim) right from the factory. Not to be confused with the Stator-destruction whine that can come-on in the (I believe) pre-2009 VN900's.

An incorrectly tensioned/aligned belt makes more of a screeching (rubber on steel) type noise, more pronounced on acceleration or deceleration, at least in the case of my bike. The tension spec for the belt is rather tight - check your manual for how to test - or go back to the dealer.

If your worried about it, better check it out. E&OE!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
I used the Kawasaki oil filter. I also used Yamalube 20w50. I will be going to Shell Rotella 15w40 my next oil change when the weather cools down. I probably will stick with the Kawasaki oil filters.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
391 Posts
these bikes are know to tick. Some call it the Kawasaki tick. First oil change is recommended at 600 miles. As far brand oil use what you like. But I would use a motorcycle oil.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
918 Posts
Yup, can't go wrong with Rotella! I've used that in all the recent bikes I've owned: Vulcan 750 and a KLR650. Works just fine and it's cheaper than those oils labeled "motorcycle".

As for the backfiring, are you hearing it from the exhaust or at the intake? The stock pipes should reduce the afterfire (popping from exhaust) enough to not notice it. However, if the bike is backfiring from the intake, you got something else going on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
It's from the exhaust. I changed my throttle shifting habits a little and it quit. I appreciate all the info. I've heard people changing the oil at 300 miles. I'm considering this. Any opinions would be great. And also any suggestions on how to stand my bike up for the oil change. Or basically just hold it up so I can look at the sight glass. Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
918 Posts
It's from the exhaust. I changed my throttle shifting habits a little and it quit. I appreciate all the info. I've heard people changing the oil at 300 miles. I'm considering this. Any opinions would be great. And also any suggestions on how to stand my bike up for the oil change. Or basically just hold it up so I can look at the sight glass. Thanks
Do you have the manual for your bike? If so, READ IT! It has nearly all the answers you are asking for.

Oil changes don't require anything other than wrench time. No need to prop the bike up, just get a low-wide oil catcher for draining the oil into. Since oils like Rotella come in 1 gallon jugs, you'll only need 1 jug since the bike needs 3.2 quarts with filter change (4 quarts = 1 gallon).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
536 Posts
On my 07 Classic I have done quite a few oil changes since I have 25,000 miles on it. On mine I change oil and filter when its hot and add 3 quarts and 7 ounces to fill it into the center of the sight glass with each oil change. Any more than that I believe is overfilling it. When its warm it near the top of the sight glass when the bike is level.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
409 Posts
these bikes are know to tick. Some call it the Kawasaki tick. First oil change is recommended at 600 miles. As far brand oil use what you like. But I would use a motorcycle oil.
+2 on ticks. The air switching valve solenoid tick was what prompted me to take mine back to the dealer (I had no idea what it was at the time). He managed to convince me it was common. Subsequent research supported his claim.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
For checking the oil, I made up two "stands", using scrape two by four's. Approx. 8 inch pieces. One is placed under the frame tube on the right side and then I lift from the left side until I can poke the other under the frame with my boot. Holds the bike up-right for the oil to settle and I can check it. I also use the same "stands" for basic (wheels on the ground) service and cleaning. In the winter the same stands take a little weight off the wheels while the bikes are napping.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
179 Posts
My 2c. The 900 is a noisy bike, it ticks, vibrates and "backfires" through the exhaust. It's pretty much bullet proof as bikes go. I've run Rotella for the past 3 years and the bike runs great. 20K and counting. When it stops making the many noises I'll start to worry, not before.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top