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1999 VN1500G1 Nomad, "custom blackout"
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Guess I should've adjusted my cam chain tensioner, but...had the bike about a year, been trying to figure out this recent oil leak...looks like I finally figured it out and it might be common. Anybody have info on oil leak from rear rain drain, and/or where to find a spark plug tube with gasket or a tool to remove?
 

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Very common on some 1500 (maybe all??) models if timing chains aren't self adjusting properly (they will eventually wear a hole in the spark plug tube). To add insult to injury, The adjusting plungers don't have enough 'throw' to properly take up the slack. There are 'extenders' made to provide some additional 'throw'. The spark plug tubes are available from Partzilla: Kawasaki 92066-1445 - PLUG,SLEEVE | Partzilla.com @ $22. Alternatively, you may be able to get them repaired - maybe aluminum welded, or patched using an appropriate epoxy??

People have used an appropriately sized nut on a large bolt as a tool to unscrew the tubes.
 

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Question for the highly knowledgeable on this forum. I have a 99 1500 nomad and just noticed the right red light on the speedo cluster flash when under acceleration and when decelerating. Any ideas what is going on. Is the right red light oil or coolant. Thanks for your help
 

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I have a 2003 1600 Classic with the same problem. My timing chain is slack and I figure the tensioner is maxed, so replacing it alone won't do anything. Where can I get an extender you mention? Another question: If I can't do the extender, what do you think of me putting JB Weld inside the tube over where the worn hole is and just let it wear more without leaking? I'm hoping to get another season out of it without a rebuild. Thanks.
 

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Apparently both 1500 and 1600 models have the problem (I wasn't sure about this when I originally replied). In any case, the process of installing the extender is: remove the tensioners body assembly from each cylinder - one comes off easy, the other - in-between the cylinders - is more challenging but it can be done without removing a wack of stuff (some air cleaner stuff has to come off though) and a lot of patience (might be a good idea to remove the easy one first - you may find the extenders have been installed already). Once removed use a saw or a Dremel (that's what I used) to put a shallow slot in the side of the tensioner end cap and insert a flat blade screwdriver in the slot and twist to crack way the cap (it's pressed on) from the tensioner arm. The extender, which is simply a longer cap, is pressed on the end of the tensioner arm and everything is reassembled (Note there is a procedure for reassembly which involves resetting the tensioner which must be strictly followed). The cap is a interference fit so I put my tensioners in dry ice and heated the caps before pressing (didn't need any special tools for this). Some folks use lock tight but since I was heating the caps to press on, I didn't use any. Oh yea, the gaskets will probalby tear when you take the tensioners off so I'd have two new ones ready to go just in case you need them.

There were a few home based folks in the US manufacturing the extenders but Kawasaki Canada had official ones made up and gave them a Kawasaki part number - I'll need to do some digging to find out the part number.
 

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I have a 2003 1600 Classic with the same problem. My timing chain is slack and I figure the tensioner is maxed, so replacing it alone won't do anything. Where can I get an extender you mention? Another question: If I can't do the extender, what do you think of me putting JB Weld inside the tube over where the worn hole is and just let it wear more without leaking? I'm hoping to get another season out of it without a rebuild. Thanks.
  1. I would advise against it. They are available on eBay.
  2. The JB has to go somewhere when it grinds away.
  3. It is tedious but can be done easily in a day
 
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