Kawasaki Vulcan Forum banner

1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello all!! I am hoping anybody could give me some help. To start I have a 97 Kawasaki Vulcan 800a 11k miles.
She starts up and idles fine but given any gas she dies. Also if you put you hand on the air filter cap/top and push inward toward the carb she stalls out, while running the bike sputtered and back fires up through the carb. While driving the bike will have moments of sudden hesitation and when off throttle decelerating the bike backfires and pops. Please help. I havent had this bike long. The previous owner must have either dropped it or hit it with their car. Also runs super rich and sounds like it has a dead cylinder almost... When I give it hell on the throttle she doesnt let up and takes it. Shifts fine. After she warms up she drives better. But I have to get on the throttle pretty hard from a dead stop to get it to go. Like if I try to release the clutch slowly and go she dies instantly like no bogging just "poofff" and then takes a min to start back up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
234 Posts
We cannot help You virtually ;) Just start with Your carburetor cleaning and fine tuning. Then check Your valves. Two simple logical steps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
490 Posts
Sounds like the carbs need cleaning. The needing to rev hard to move, sputtering, all things my wife's Shadow did before a carb cleaning. I had the carbs cleaned on my 05 back in 2010 when I got it, and with a little fuel stabilizer each fall for a couple of tanks, [knock on wood] I haven't had a carb problem since.

I also recommend shimming the jets when you do so. This will remove some of the Kawasaki cold-bloodedness. My 05 VN800B doesn't need the choke on at anything over 60 degrees out, and runs like a scalded dog.

Just my $.02

-John
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
But wait there's more

I know the fuel peacocks are vacuum actuated and weirdly designed. Mine has some blue rtv silicon squishing out of it and fuel dumps out no matter what... Also an issue?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
234 Posts
Yes and no. Originally the petcock should be controlled by a vacuum. If Your carb float needle is OK, nothing bad should happen even if Your petcock is always open. IMHO, if You have to repair it to work properly with a vacuum, better by a new one - an alternative from SUZUKI. There was a topic couple of pages ago.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,887 Posts
The carb is mounted to the intake with a rubber boot. Sounds like its bad or its not sealed good on the carb/intake, this will cause a vaccum leak.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
234 Posts
Actually, You can test a vacuum leak by using a starting fluid (aerosol). Just spray it over Your rubber intake when engine is running. If You've got a vacuum leak, Your rpm will increase.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,756 Posts
Actually, You can test a vacuum leak by using a starting fluid (aerosol). Just spray it over Your rubber intake when engine is running. If You've got a vacuum leak, Your rpm will increase.
Even better, spritz bottle filled with soapy water. Spray suspect area and watch for bubbles to get sucked in.
Not flammable, just in case you have a spark leak somewhere.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
457 Posts
That bike has been idle for most of its life. The right way would be to pull the carb and rebuild it. I would imagine the fuel inside turned to varnish a long time ago. If you would rather not then you need to clean outside components and run heavy duty carb cleaner through the fuel tank. Sometimes it will work. If it is too bad your only choice may be to rebuild it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Having it die if pushing on the air cleaner housing sounds like it is for sure a boot problem that attaches the carb to the heads. The spark leak i really would not worry about if you just squirt small amounts at a time, you need very little for the bike to rev up a bit if the boot is squirted. If i am not mistaken, the fuel vacuum will be messed up also if the boot has problems or if it is partially off the carb, head.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I would agree but after taking that boot off and inspecting it it looks fine.
Having it die if pushing on the air cleaner housing sounds like it is for sure a boot problem that attaches the carb to the heads. The spark leak i really would not worry about if you just squirt small amounts at a time, you need very little for the bike to rev up a bit if the boot is squirted. If i am not mistaken, the fuel vacuum will be messed up also if the boot has problems or if it is partially off the carb, head.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
ALRIGHT UPDATE UPDATE TIME!!!
So after a carb breakdown. The fuel bowl was nasty with orangish looking crap coating the entire fuel bowl. The accelerator pump diaphragm has a nice tear in it which was causing a leak of gas out of the bottom side of the carb (very small leak) ANNDDDD SOMEBODY got all up in fuel petcock and tried to "Fix" it. The side of it was all goobered up with Blur ttc silicon which made me wonder what was up with that. And my plugs look ehh.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
So shes running fine and good now. I took her for over an hour ride and had no issues. The accelerator pump diaphram was dumping fuel into the motor so when i pushed on the air intake it choked the motor out with too much fuel. New Diaphram fixed that, replacing the Fuel Tank Tap Pet cock also helped the overflow fuel issue i was having and some drill and tapping of a new Brass elbow for the fuel Inlet fixed the other issue. New plugs, coolant flush, oil change and Complete breakdown and carb rebuild succesfully fixed the carb issues. I forgot who said it but The fuel bowl was Varnished and nasty orange. Two quick flicks of the throttle and she fires right up.

follow up question would be how high is it supposed to idle?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Also does anybody know the Front Rim size of this bike? Previous owner bent the rim in one spot and she is a little bouncy in the front while riding. I hope thats not a bigger issue down the road.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
490 Posts
For idle, it should be 950 RPMS +- 50, IIRC. Basically, turn the idle adjustment screw until it's just above stalling, and you should be good to go.

As for the rim, IIRC it's a 21" wheel.

-John
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,887 Posts
For idle, it should be 950 RPMS +- 50, IIRC. Basically, turn the idle adjustment screw until it's just above stalling, and you should be good to go.

As for the rim, IIRC it's a 21" wheel.

-John
If its too slow it can destroy the cams, I know 1st hand on this one. If it has a big cam lope to it, turn it up just a little.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top