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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently rebuilt my front end of my bike from an accident. Now I can't get the front caliper to fully stop the bike. I have had the caliper rebuilt and bled the system. One thing I'm noticing is if I leave the caliper bolts finger tight, the caliper works like normal. If I tighten the two screws to spec, the caliper will flex when the brake lever is squeezed and I'm not getting much resistance in the handle. I'm not seeing any fluid leaking and everything else looks good. If I remove the caliper completely from the rotor and apply the brakes, everything works normally. Has anyone experienced this? At this point I am completely out of ideas.
 

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Welcome to the forum from North Carolina. What parts were replaced due to the accident? We’re they used or new? Was the fork that holds the caliper replaced? Does the caliper slide easily on it’s holder when off the bike and when the bolts are finger tight? Assuming all you parts are correct will have to lean to an assembly issue. Here are two links. One to download a factory repair manual and the other to an OEM parts supplier with diagrams. Have found the parts diagrams help show how things are assembled. Hope this helps. Thanks again for becoming a member. Be well and Ride Safely.


 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Both forks were, front wheel and axle were replaced. All the parts were used from another 95 Vulcan 800a. The caliper does slide easily onto the holder.
 

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If a comparison of the old and new parts show they are identical, then something is missing or assembly needs to be reviewed.
 

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I recently rebuilt my front end of my bike from an accident. Now I can't get the front caliper to fully stop the bike. I have had the caliper rebuilt and bled the system. One thing I'm noticing is if I leave the caliper bolts finger tight, the caliper works like normal. If I tighten the two screws to spec, the caliper will flex when the brake lever is squeezed and I'm not getting much resistance in the handle. I'm not seeing any fluid leaking and everything else looks good. If I remove the caliper completely from the rotor and apply the brakes, everything works normally. Has anyone experienced this? At this point I am completely out of ideas.
You said “not getting much resistance in the handle” along with no visible leakage. I’d put my money on a worn seal/plunger of you master cylinder.

Try removing the cover, activating the brake lever. Watch for a stream of fluid coming up from the bottom (the surface will show it). Be sure to cover your tank so as to not get fluid on your paint and that it’s level.

Take a look into this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You said “not getting much resistance in the handle” along with no visible leakage. I’d put my money on a worn seal/plunger of you master cylinder.

Try removing the cover, activating the brake lever. Watch for a stream of fluid coming up from the bottom (the surface will show it). Be sure to cover your tank so as to not get fluid on your paint and that it’s level.

Take a look into this.
You said “not getting much resistance in the handle” along with no visible leakage. I’d put my money on a worn seal/plunger of you master cylinder.

Try removing the cover, activating the brake lever. Watch for a stream of fluid coming up from the bottom (the surface will show it). Be sure to cover your tank so as to not get fluid on your paint and that it’s level.

Take a look into this.
I actually looked at that yesterday. There's a visible stream when the handle is pressed. The main thing that has me concerned is the amount of flex the caliper is doing when the bolts are tightened down. I'm fairly sure the loss in braking is coming from that flex.
 

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I actually looked at that yesterday. There's a visible stream when the handle is pressed. The main thing that has me concerned is the amount of flex the caliper is doing when the bolts are tightened down. I'm fairly sure the loss in braking is coming from that flex.
I have a hard time wrapping my head around this flex you mentioned. In order for this to make sense is it possible for you to use your camera? Take a very short video so we can see this flex. I imagine you’d have to have a hell of a lot of flex to take away handle resistance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I have a hard time wrapping my head around this flex you mentioned. In order for this to make sense is it possible for you to use your camera? Take a very short video so we can see this flex. I imagine you’d have to have a hell of a lot of flex to take away handle resistance.
I will try to get a video of it tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok so new development. I went out to the bike tonight and there was a puddle of brake fluid under the caliper. There hadn't been any before. After narrowing it down it looks like it's coming from the banjo bolt. I have a new one on order now with new crush washers. I didn't think to look there before because there hadn't been any fluid leaking up until this point. But sitting for a couple weeks in the same spot made it very apparent. I will update soon as I get the parts installed and the system bled again.
 

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Ok so new development. I went out to the bike tonight and there was a puddle of brake fluid under the caliper. There hadn't been any before. After narrowing it down it looks like it's coming from the banjo bolt. I have a new one on order now with new crush washers. I didn't think to look there before because there hadn't been any fluid leaking up until this point. But sitting for a couple weeks in the same spot made it very apparent. I will update soon as I get the parts installed and the system bled again.
Not sure of your service history but if it’s been many moons, you may want to check all caliper seals. An overhaul may be in order. But good find, nonetheless.
 
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