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Discussion Starter #1
Changed my fork oil last week and she started fine when I pulled her into the garage. Put everything back together, hopped on for a test ride, hit the starter switch... nothing, doesn't even turn over. Display/lights are all working fine. First thought was the battery had just enough juice to start the first time, so I put it on a trickle charger overnight. Showed as fully charged the next morning. Still nothing. Had a load test done on the battery and it came back showing the battery is fine.

Thought maybe in taking the handlebars off I'd inadvertently knocked a connection loose somewhere but I haven't found anything. Took the switch apart and all connections LOOK to be good, although I don't have anything to test them.

I have noticed on a couple of occasions in the past when I went to start the bike that nothing happened when initially depressing the starter switch, but I'd hit it one or two more times and she fired right up. That was a couple of months ago, it only happened 2 or 3 times, and I haven't had an issue since so it kind of slipped my mind until now. So I'm still leaning towards a loose or broken connection somewhere but I'm not sure. Electronics aren't my forte.

Any suggestions on what I should be checking?
 

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You are going to need a test light at the least, a volt/olm meter would be better.A service manual or access to one. A few jumper wires.
I would test the starter switch, starter relay,kickstand switch,clutch switch,kill switch.
Hopefully SFAIR will be along shortly to help.
Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You are going to need a test light at the least, a volt/olm meter would be better.A service manual or access to one. A few jumper wires.
I would test the starter switch, starter relay,kickstand switch,clutch switch,kill switch.
Hopefully SFAIR will be along shortly to help.
Good Luck
I've got a volt/ohm meter I'm borrowing, should have it by this weekend. Figures this would happen the week it warms up the mid/high 60s.
 

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I guess it doesn't start in neutral either... that eliminates the kickstand and clutch(starter lockout) switches.

Does the FI light do anything? if there's a error in the system it blinks in a certain way..

Does the fuel pump arm/start when you turn the ignition key on?

here are a few possible connection issues:
-engine stop switch
-main 30 A or ignition fuse blown
-vehicle-down sensor

*sent you a personal message
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I guess it doesn't start in neutral either... that eliminates the kickstand and clutch(starter lockout) switches.

Does the FI light do anything? if there's a error in the system it blinks in a certain way..

Does the fuel pump arm/start when you turn the ignition key on?

here are a few possible connection issues:
-engine stop switch
-main 30 A or ignition fuse blown
-vehicle-down sensor

*sent you a personal message

Haven't noticed the fi light acting screwy, I'll take a closer look tomorrow. Fuel pump starts, but it sounds like it's lagging after a split second... Could be my imagination looking for something but it kind of sounds like it cuts off for a split second then starts back with a lag. Hard to describe.i checked the ignition fuse, didn't check the main. I'll take a look at that tomorrow as well.


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Check to see if you might have a blown fuse.

Is it possible that when you removed the handlebars you inadvertently pulled a wire loose from the switch housing, or even broke a wire? That could be easy to do, as those aren't necessarily heavy wires.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Check to see if you might have a blown fuse.

Is it possible that when you removed the handlebars you inadvertently pulled a wire loose from the switch housing, or even broke a wire? That could be easy to do, as those aren't necessarily heavy wires.

That was my first thought as well. I took the switch housing apart and didn't notice anything, but was in a hurry and just gave it a quick once over. Hoping to get in there and look things over in more detail today or tomorrow.


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Discussion Starter #9
Planning on picking up a multimeter this afternoon and diving in this weekend if I don't get a chance to sooner. I'll update as soon as can actually get into and check some things out.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The hazard in doing this without first troubleshooting the housing as being the fault is potentially introducing another problem and then the REAL tail chasing begins.

Point taken. Right now I honestly don't know where/how to start. Haven't really had much of a chance to dig through the service manual.


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Discussion Starter #13
Hoping to have time to check it out this weekend, between work and Christmas coming up I keep getting delayed. How do I go about testing the ignition switch to see if it's the culprit? Considering what I stated having a temporary issue where I got nothing upon hitting the button, but the bike firing right up after a couple tries, I'm leaning towards a connection being loose somewhere initially and me finishing it off when I removed the handle bars.

I'm also not entirely sure the fuel pump is cycling completely but that could be my ears playing tricks look for issues. I do hear a stutter after a second then it shuts off. I don't remember it sounding like that but then again i never listened all THAT closely and I may just be looking for problems.


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Could you do the following:

1. Take a voltage reading across the battery.
2. Key on, take another reading.
3. Leave key on for a full five minutes and then take another reading.
4. Leave key off for 5 minutes and then take another reading.

Post back with 4 readings.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Could you do the following:



1. Take a voltage reading across the battery.

2. Key on, take another reading.

3. Leave key on for a full five minutes and then take another reading.

4. Leave key off for 5 minutes and then take another reading.



Post back with 4 readings.

Will do, I should be able to get to it tomorrow


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Voltage drop test.
Sounds like it might be a positive or negative battery cable issue.
Simply place one end of the voltmeter on the neg battery post the other at the starter housing, or fastener bolt. Hit the starter switch. The reading should be less than a volt. Do the same between the positive battery post and the positive cable end at the starter, should read less than a volt. If you read more than a volt either pos or neg side check all battery cable connections especially of the neg cable. Loose or corroded connections of the neg "ground" cable will allow some low drawing consumers to work fine but somthing like a starter will not. Even if this is not the problem the voltage drop test is an easy and usefull test that can be use on any electronic component.
 

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Voltage drop test.
Sounds like it might be a positive or negative battery cable issue.
Simply place one end of the voltmeter on the neg battery post the other at the starter housing, or fastener bolt. Hit the starter switch. The reading should be less than a volt. Do the same between the positive battery post and the positive cable end at the starter, should read less than a volt. If you read more than a volt either pos or neg side check all battery cable connections especially of the neg cable. Loose or corroded connections of the neg "ground" cable will allow some low drawing consumers to work fine but somthing like a starter will not. Even if this is not the problem the voltage drop test is an easy and usefull test that can be use on any electronic component.
This test will not work if the starter solenoid is not pulling.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Could you do the following:



1. Take a voltage reading across the battery.

2. Key on, take another reading.

3. Leave key on for a full five minutes and then take another reading.

4. Leave key off for 5 minutes and then take another reading.



Post back with 4 readings.

Finally had time to test with the holidays being over.

1. 13.14
2. 12.45
3. 12.41
4. 12.80


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