Kawasaki Vulcan Forum banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have an 08 Classic LT. Yesterday, I was riding around town (hot day) and when I pulled up to a red light and the bike idles down, the "FL" red light came on. rev up just a little and it goes off. This happened four or five times. The fuel level was low, so I gassed up, and no more "FL" light. But it happened again this morning after about a 50 km ride. I'll take it in to the dealer for a check, but I would like to know a little more about the subject before I talk to them. If anyone could enlighten me I sure would appreciate it.

Kenny G

We have to get older. We don't have to grow up!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,130 Posts
I have an 08 Classic LT. Yesterday, I was riding around town (hot day) and when I pulled up to a red light and the bike idles down, the "FL" red light came on. rev up just a little and it goes off. This happened four or five times. The fuel level was low, so I gassed up, and no more "FL" light. But it happened again this morning after about a 50 km ride. I'll take it in to the dealer for a check, but I would like to know a little more about the subject before I talk to them. If anyone could enlighten me I sure would appreciate it.

Kenny G

We have to get older. We don't have to grow up!
Is it possible your idle is set too low? Was it the FI or the oil pressure lite that came on?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
742 Posts
SAME THING TODAY FOR ME?!?!

my '08 custom did it for the first time today?!? i have put about 600 miles on it since i purchased it and it is around 1800 miles total?!? i played with the idle and got it to stop... but the engine seemed to be idling too high?!?!

since i just bought it... i scheduled to have the dealer look at it... can't believe such a new bike with low miles is already going to be giving me FI problems?!?! the only mod the previous owner did was the vance and hines pipes (debaffled).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
451 Posts
I've never had that issue. Maybe Classics don't have the problem? :rolleyes:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
719 Posts
Two ways I found to set the idle without a tach: 1) Warm up and adjust idle to at least 13.5v at the battery; 2) Adjust until headlight is at full brightness then go a tad more. I set mine at 13.5v which leaves enough power for my gps or whatever and sounds better with the debaffled pipes. If you blip the throttle and the bike stalls or comes too close to stalling adjust a tad higher.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
742 Posts
Two ways I found to set the idle without a tach: 1) Warm up and adjust idle to at least 13.5v at the battery; 2) Adjust until headlight is at full brightness then go a tad more. I set mine at 13.5v which leaves enough power for my gps or whatever and sounds better with the debaffled pipes. If you blip the throttle and the bike stalls or comes too close to stalling adjust a tad higher.
do you think i should let the dealer look at it or blow them off?? i rode yesterday with the idle up a little and never had the light come on. i need to try the 13.5v trick since i never installed a tach?!?! manufacturer spec is like 1050 minimum rpm's isn't it???
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,130 Posts
do you think i should let the dealer look at it or blow them off?? i rode yesterday with the idle up a little and never had the light come on. i need to try the 13.5v trick since i never installed a tach?!?! manufacturer spec is like 1050 minimum rpm's isn't it???
The shop manual states 950 to 1050 is the proper idle speed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
719 Posts
My service manual didn't come with a tach. The key concerns are voltage to run everything w/o draining the battery at idle and enough rpm for the oil pump to keep the top end in oil. Stealer or buying a tach, either way you might as well bend over.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
976 Posts
IF your F1 light comes up while idling adjust the idle up a bit till it doesn't. It's nice to have a tach BUT in lieu of that the F1 light will let you know if you're idling under 900 rpm.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,130 Posts
My service manual didn't come with a tach. The key concerns are voltage to run everything w/o draining the battery at idle and enough rpm for the oil pump to keep the top end in oil. Stealer or buying a tach, either way you might as well bend over.
One of the side benefits of the PCV is you can display the RPM on your laptop.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
FI Concern

Thanks for the input, people. Keep it coming. Sounds like nobody thinks it's a serious concern right now.

kennyg

We have to get older. We don't have to grow up!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
742 Posts
Thanks for the input, people. Keep it coming. Sounds like nobody thinks it's a serious concern right now.
ditto ... gonna cancel my appointment for tomorrow at the dealer. i did set the idle to about 13.35v-13.55v and it took care of it on a short ride around town this morning.

EDIT: only problem is bike seems to 'sound' like it is idling too fast?? might just hook the tach up after a ride one day to see the actual rpm's... not that hard and since it is just sitting on the shelf anyway?!?!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
104 Posts
One of the side benefits of the PCV is you can display the RPM on your laptop.
Since this thread seems to have run it's course> Don't want to jack it. But I do have some questions on the PCV.

When setting your AFV's did you use a percentage value to rewrite the map or did you write your own, by seat of the pants?

What is the stock difference in percent of the AFV between front and rear cylinders? I know this will be rough, but am mostly interested at idle, mid and full.

Also, my other ride's ECU has a memory, it remembers how I ride. Is the Vulcan ECU the same?

This looks like it a fun toy. Is it worth it?

Any responses will be appreciated.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,130 Posts
Since this thread seems to have run it's course> Don't want to jack it. But I do have some questions on the PCV.

When setting your AFV's did you use a percentage value to rewrite the map or did you write your own, by seat of the pants?

What is the stock difference in percent of the AFV between front and rear cylinders? I know this will be rough, but am mostly interested at idle, mid and full.

Also, my other ride's ECU has a memory, it remembers how I ride. Is the Vulcan ECU the same?

This looks like it a fun toy. Is it worth it?

Any responses will be appreciated.
First let me say that every bike of the same model runs a little different. Then there's the aftermarket goodies you add to increase performance. Also what was removed from the OEM package like the secondary throttle plates. At the end of the day the maps that are available for download from DynoJet will bring you close to the performance package you are seeking. The best way to go about obtaining the maximum from your equipment is having it dyno'd by a shop that has a DynoJet dynomometer. Second best may be the AutoTune module that DynoJet sells. I'm waiting for mine and want to see how it performs before I pass judgment. Third is by the seat of the pants. I found with the mods I made, i.e. Cobra Speedster Slashdowns, Barons air package and removing the secondary throttle plates that my lower end and some of the mid-range was running lean. I just started changing the cell values richer until I "felt" a power curve that seemed linear. Now I'm checking my gas mileage to see how much that's suffered. There's always a trade off. There's really no way knowing what the factory did in programing the ECU for front vs. rear cylinders. The PCV only adds or subtracts fuel from an existing program. A dyno test would be the only way to fine tune front vs. rear for max. power. My PCIII on another bike was adjustable in that way but I must admit I've just recently installed the PCV on my Vulcan so don't know all the features yet. As far as I can tell the ECU on the Vulcan is not a closed loop system (except for the European version) and thus has no idea how the bike is ridden. Even the European version can only adjust the AFR for stoichiometric values while the engine is running at a steady RPM for an extended period of time. I hope this answers some of your questions.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
104 Posts
Sojourner.

The only program that I am familiar with is ECMspy. Some different terms AFVvsAFR but it must be similar, though from your description of PCV the ECMspy is more advanced. This program strongly suggests you burn a copy of your stock maps to a disc or stick, just in case. For me anyway, on my other ride, the stock program is the base line.

On the Vulcan I am not looking for HP, only to richen it up from the EPA standard, to remove the baby farts and to see if the rear cylinder can be cooled down a little.

The stoichiometric ratio between the front and rear cylinders is different at least on HD products with the rear running much richer and on the Buell as much as 2-3% richer. I was wondering if the Vulcan is the same, because the rear does run cooler with the water vs. air.

I'll have to do more research. Thanks
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top