800 shut off on me and won't start

That hose goes to the gold EPA valve that then directs the filtered air to the cylinders exhaust side through reed valves. Not sure if that would cause your problem unless its been sucking unfiltered air and/or chunks of plastic into the jugs. Only way to tell would be to remove the head covers and check the reed valve passages. Might as well adjust the valves while your in there.

Then you have to ask: What caused the overheat condition to start with? Additional drag, internal friction, lean condition, etc.

miketphoto said:

I was about half way in to my commute yesterday morning. On a down hill I took my hand off the throttle for a second and when I got back on it it bogged down and lost power and shut off. It sounds like it wants to start just want kick over. I pulled the air filter off and noticed that the the large hose fitting on the back of the air box is melted. Not sure if it's related. Also not sure if the hose was disconnected before I pulled the air box forward. Here are some pictures. Any ideas? Bike has been running really well up until now.

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Biggest single source of this type of problem is battery (age, condition, terminals loose or corroded)
then fuel, did you just run out? I know a guy who after 4 years of owning his bike didnt know which was reserve or main, and ran the tank dry thinking he still had a reserve. Is the fuel good? fresh?

Battery is in good shape and I had about 30 miles to go before I usually fill up. Since I am still riding almost daily the fuel was at the most a couple days old. I feel like it's fuel related just don't know what.

miketphoto said:

Battery is in good shape and I had about 30 miles to go before I usually fill up. Since I am still riding almost daily the fuel was at the most a couple days old. I feel like it's fuel related just don't know what.

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Many, many folk think their battery is good and it isnt. the only true way is to test the voltage while the engine is cranking. If there is less than 10.5 volts at the battery terminals while the engine is cranking, the vulcan engines will not start.

I reckon 70% of this problem on the vulcans is battery related.
You have to PROVE the battery has the correct voltage before any trouble shooting can be done.

Well, it very well may be the battery. I left the key on last night like a dumb A and now I get fault reading on my charger. So if I understand what you are saying if my battery was dying on my ride that little bit that I was off the throttle was enough to kill the engine?

miketphoto said:

Well, it very well may be the battery. I left the key on last night like a dumb A and now I get fault reading on my charger. So if I understand what you are saying if my battery was dying on my ride that little bit that I was off the throttle was enough to kill the engine?

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the vulcans have an anti hot wire circuit built into the wiring. If at any time the voltage drops below 10.5 the engine wont fire.
If your battery was part discharged before you started riding, and the engine has a low idle, its quite possible the engine died because of that. Once stopped, theres no way to restart the vulcan with less than 10 volts while the engine is cranking.
Give the battery an overnight charge, and try again.

Sunnybob, I didn't know that about the battery! Good info. Miketphoto, let us know what you find out.

texasgrape said:

Sunnybob, I didn't know that about the battery! Good info. Miketphoto, let us know what you find out.

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Its one of those "good idea" things that are actually a pain in the arse.
Its not on any wiring diagrams for obvious reasons, bit it causes havoc when youre trying to fault find your own bike.

If a thief just cuts the ignition switch wires and touches them together, it will not start. But, if your battery is only a little bit off the pace, again, it will not start.
It will turn over untill you totally wreck the battery, but the plugs will not fire.
Any starting issues on any vulcan MUST have the battery tested before going any further.