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Discussion Starter #1
Going to change oil for 1st time. Picked up a Napa oil filter. Is there a special type of filter wrench I need? Since it's still in the breakin period, I'm planning on using regular oil. Any recommendations on brand? Will probably use Mobil synthetic for motorcycles after breakin.
 

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Why wouldn't use go ahead and make the change to synthetic now? Just wondering....
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Why wouldn't use go ahead and make the change to synthetic now? Just wondering....
I've always thought you were supposed to use regular dino oil thru break-in before switching to synthetic. No?
 

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I've always thought you were supposed to use regular dino oil thru break-in before switching to synthetic. No?
I'm not offering opinions, I'm asking. I'm almost ready to do a first service on a new 2013 Voyager, but I was planning to use synthetic in the service.

Anyone else have an opinion? Do you make the change to synthetic at the first oil change (500-600 miles) or later in the break-in period?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I recall seeing some of your posts. I think we have the same model & color. I need to find out from someone about the filter wrench before I head to the cabin Wednesday. I can always call the dealer but a lot of good info from the guys on this site.
 

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I use a K&N filter that has a nut welded on the end for install and removal. You will find that there's not much room to use a filter wrench. If you're going to use filters without the nut on the end, I would get a small strap wrench.

There are several opinions as to when to use synthetic oil. If you want mine, you can use it after 600 miles.
Mobil for bikes is one of the best.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks David. I must not have searched good the 1st attempt but 2nd attempt I saw a few suggestions on the strap wrench, especially if using the longer filter. I will get one on the way home tomorrow.
 

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I've always thought you were supposed to use regular dino oil thru break-in before switching to synthetic. No?
When I did the first oil change on my 2013 Voyager I went right to synthetic. I'm using Amsoil 10W40 with a K&N 303 filter. I like the nut.:). Went 6k miles to the second change. I'll keep doing it every 6k. Makes the figuring out when I did the last change a lot easier. I subscribe to the KISS principal. In a couple weeks I'll be installing Commander II's front and rear. I'll be doing Rolling Thunder again this year and another trip (3d) to Canada.
 

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I kept dyno oil in mine for 5000 miles. Then switched to mobil 1.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Oil-Filter-Wrench-Pliers-Style-1-3-4-To-3-1-2-Heavy-Duty-Vinyl-Coated-Handles/41094105
I use Oil Filter Pliers to remove and my hand to put on a new one.

I do like the K&N filters, but got a bunch of Kawasaki filters at cost when my local dealer was going out of business.

I have heard that these engines aren't really broken in until 5000 miles and didn't want to risk using any oil during break in. Even when I switched to synthetic at 5000 miles, I did have to add a little oil before the next oil change and from there on I was good. Now have about 50,000 on the bike.
 

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After the first oil change on mine, I immediately switched tot he K&N filter . . . Getting the filter off the first time was an experience I do not want to have to replicate . . . My dealer did the first oil change with the 600 mile check - done at 1,100 miles as they couldn't get it in at 600 and I wasn't sitting around waiting for them . . . I've done the changes since using synthetic oil . . . . The K&N makes it sooooooo much easier - I generally buy them in 3 or 4 packs off Amazon (K&N 303 filters I believe).

I have never had to add oil between changes and I have just over 30,000 on my 2011 now.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
After the first oil change on mine, I immediately switched tot he K&N filter . . . Getting the filter off the first time was an experience I do not want to have to replicate . . . .
Any suggestions to help me make the first oil filter removal easier? Plan on getting a strap wrench but other than that?
 

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You can use the strap wrench in either direction.
You know that right?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
You can use the strap wrench in either direction.
You know that right?
I can't say that I did. I bought a couple of strap wrenches today, small & large.

Thanks to all for the info. I will let you know how it goes.
 

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I kept dyno oil in mine for 5000 miles. Then switched to mobil 1.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Oil-Filter-Wrench-Pliers-Style-1-3-4-To-3-1-2-Heavy-Duty-Vinyl-Coated-Handles/41094105
I use Oil Filter Pliers to remove and my hand to put on a new one.

I do like the K&N filters, but got a bunch of Kawasaki filters at cost when my local dealer was going out of business.

I have heard that these engines aren't really broken in until 5000 miles and didn't want to risk using any oil during break in. Even when I switched to synthetic at 5000 miles, I did have to add a little oil before the next oil change and from there on I was good. Now have about 50,000 on the bike.
I changed to Amsoil at 600, next change at 6000, and again at 12000. Didn't have to add any in between. I've never been able to consistently get the same reading on the dipstick too. Sometimes a little higher, sometimes a little lower. As long as it is between the tic marks, good to go.
 

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All went well with the oil change. I thought the oil drain plugs didn't have washers on them but they had fallen into the used oil pan. Filter came off fairly easy with the small strap wrench. Took my time moving the bike from kick stand to straight up, back and forth until I was sure all the oil was out. Had a friend watching when no more oil was coming out helped a lot. Added 4 qts then started engine, and followed book to check level. Ended up adding another full quart to make it 5 total. The oil mark is about 3/4 up the cross hatch. Is that too high? I would have rather it been about 1/2 way.
 

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All went well with the oil change. I thought the oil drain plugs didn't have washers on them but they had fallen into the used oil pan. Filter came off fairly easy with the small strap wrench. Took my time moving the bike from kick stand to straight up, back and forth until I was sure all the oil was out. Had a friend watching when no more oil was coming out helped a lot. Added 4 qts then started engine, and followed book to check level. Ended up adding another full quart to make it 5 total. The oil mark is about 3/4 up the cross hatch. Is that too high? I would have rather it been about 1/2 way.
No it's not too high. Within the hash marks is good.
 

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Commander II's?

When I did the first oil change on my 2013 Voyager I went right to synthetic. I'm using Amsoil 10W40 with a K&N 303 filter. I like the nut.:). Went 6k miles to the second change. I'll keep doing it every 6k. Makes the figuring out when I did the last change a lot easier. I subscribe to the KISS principal. In a couple weeks I'll be installing Commander II's front and rear. I'll be doing Rolling Thunder again this year and another trip (3d) to Canada.
I have wanted to do the Commander II's on my Voyager, but can't find them in the stock tire size. Even went on the Michelin site and they said they make tires foe over 3000 bikes, unfortunately not this one. If you put Commander II's on your bike please advise on what size you used and if you are experiencing any issues.
 

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Your asking about CIIs in an oil thread? Lot's of info if you just search on Commander IIs. But I'll save you the time..

Front- 130/90 B16
Rear- 180/65 B16
 
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