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Discussion Starter #1
Just going to add a fuel processor and bullet lites and need to remove tank to get to injectors and run wiring down backbone. Any tips in gas tank removal. My manual comes a week this coming Monday and I don't want to wait that long. Any advice would be appreciated.
 

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Just going to add a fuel processor and bullet lites and need to remove tank to get to injectors and run wiring down backbone. Any tips in gas tank removal. My manual comes a week this coming Monday and I don't want to wait that long. Any advice would be appreciated.
You don't have to completely remove it to do what you want to do, although it may make easier to get at the injectors. You can just unbolt it and lift the rear of the tank up and put a block under it, whatever works for you.....good luck :D
 

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Scroll down to TSTinkers post of coolant flush and change. He even has pictures on how to remove the gas tank....
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Thanks guys for the tips and help. Will check out tinkers thread. Just finished reading tinkers thread. Great write up with pics so I copied it. Will find it very usefull.
 

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Does the instrument cluster on the Nomad just unplug? I lifted up the rear of the tank to install my Power Pro and just left the instrument cluster hanging. It's not a problem on the Voyager.
 

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It does unplug, but sometimes it's a tight fit. I usually slip a standard thin blade into the groove where they connect and twist to get it started.

I get best results on removing the plastic ignition ring by holding my thumb over the ring and moving the rear of the cover housing up and down just a little till the rings pops off. If you don't keep your thumb on, it will go sailing. This has to come off before you lift the tank itself up.

It's easier to remove the fuel hose if you stick a 2x4 block under the rear of the tank to give you more access. A small amount of gas will come out of the tank bibb once you get it disconnected. Mine tends to keep dripping for awhile so I slide on a short section of fuel hose with a bolt in the end.

Once you get into it you will see all this, it's not real complicated.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks RWB for the tips. I guess I had better get used to doing it. They say it has to be removed to change the plugs as well. Does the plastic O ring that holds the ignition just push back in when installing the tank again?
 

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Yes you just push it back on. It lines up a certain way, but you can tell by the labels. The tank is easy once you do it, you will see. Try to run all the gas out so it's down to 1 or 2 gallons or it's kinda heavy to maneuver. Also have you a flat surface with a towel on it "ready" to set the tank on once you get it off.

Don't forget the vent tube (front right) and the electric connector (beside the fuel line. It's kinda funky to get loose, you have to get under the tab and pull up and then down on the connector. I usually slide a small standard screwdriver under the tab and that works.

ALWAYS have a towel to lay on the tank while removing or installing the gauge panel. It will save scratching your paint.
 

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Taking the tank off sounds and looks a little intimidating until you do it the first time. There is really not much to it. The main thing is to have somewhere prepared to put it down after removal. The fuel line on the bottom of the tank is easy to bend which makes it hard to reconnect. A heavy cardboard box with the flaps folded in is my favorite perch for the tank but a pair of 2x4's will work just as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for all the tips on gas tank removal that you guys have given me. I will be doing the fuel processor on a rainy day so these tips of tank removal will really be handy. As you have indicated the first time is the hardest and once I do it I am sure my confidence will be better. Thanks to all.
 

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. . . . . . . . The main thing is to have somewhere prepared to put it down after removal. The fuel line on the bottom of the tank is easy to bend which makes it hard to reconnect. A heavy cardboard box with the flaps folded in is my favorite perch for the tank but a pair of 2x4's will work just as well.
That's an excellent point TS, I failed to mention that I support my tank similar. Ballbreaker by now you've prolly already done it and found it's all easy, but I found some old pics of what I was trying to explain before. Note the most important step to working with anything that has electrical in it, is disconnect the neg batt terminal FIRST. I always tape the post in case something falls back.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
thanks for the input and pics RWB. I am doing it this weekend and I don't think there will be any problems. THis forum is sure great for information.
 

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Those attached images are God-sent gifts! And I never would have thought of taping the battery neg terminal. Thank you for this post. It is what I was needing to find to help me with changing the plugs.
 
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