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As long as the oil I use meets the owner's manual requirements am I good? Does it matter that the oil on the Walmart Shelf is a car oil? I use to have a GoldWing and Honda wanted you to use a Molly Free oil, does that matter with my Voyager? What oil do you use? Thanks All
 

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As long as the specs on the oil meets or exceeds Kawi's requirements you will be fine. All the info on oil specs that you need to know is in your owner's manual. They make it easy and simple by specifying what is required.

Whether you use petroleum, semi synthetic or full synthetic the oil must meet those requirements.

RACNRAY
 

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10w40 jaso ma
 

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As long as the oil I use meets the owner's manual requirements am I good? Does it matter that the oil on the Walmart Shelf is a car oil? I use to have a GoldWing and Honda wanted you to use a Molly Free oil, does that matter with my Voyager? What oil do you use? Thanks All
Do not use car oil.
It has friction modifiers that will ruin your clutch.

Scott
 

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Here is the specs out of the service manual:
Clipboard01.jpg
 

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You won't get any better advice that you've gotten here: "All the info on oil specs that you need to know is in your owner's manual." As long as it meets the spec in the owners manual it DOESN"T matter what the oil markets itself as. My only recommendation use synthetic vs. dino.
 

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Thanks, these are the same thoughts I had. I agree Scott, I believe car oil has what Honda calls "Moly" which they do not recommend for the transmission and clutch. Thanks all.
 

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The oil to avoid is any oil labeled "10W30," as it has certain friction modifiers in that are definitely not motorcycle engine friendly. You'll be able to tell by the "sunburst" on the label that says "energy conserving" inside the sunburst.

Otherwise, pretty much any other oil works, so long as it falls within the manufacturer's recommended weights. As for dino vs. synthetic, that's pretty much up to the owner which one you want to use. When I had my Gold Wing and Vulcans, I got Castrol ActEvo oil, usually at the local Cycle Gear store, as it was cheaper there than at a motorcycle dealer. ActEvo is a semi-synthetic oil, or more properly put, is a synthetic blend. Works well and is cheaper than full synthetic oil, but a bit more than pure dino oil. And the biggest benefit from using synthetic or semi-synthetic oil is that it doesn't break down as quickly as dino oil does, and you can go a bit longer between oil and filter changes.

If 10W30 oil is the weight oil you want to use, you can get it at any Honda dealer, as Honda recommends 10W30 for use in a Gold Wing, but it's not a car oil, and is clear of silicates and other friction modifiers that are detrimental to motorcycle engines.
 

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Thanks, these are the same thoughts I had. I agree Scott, I believe car oil has what Honda calls "Moly" which they do not recommend for the transmission and clutch. Thanks all.
"MOLY" is short for molybdenum disulfide which is used as an extreme pressure lubricant. We use moly as an assembly lube on plain bearings, cams, journals, buckets, etc. It is not what is in car oils that may cause clutch slippage in a m/c engine. The car oils labeled "energy conserving" which are the 20 and 30 weight oils are typically the oils with the high levels of friction modifiers that are not friendly to our wet clutches.


The oil to avoid is any oil labeled "10W30," as it has certain friction modifiers in that are definitely not motorcycle engine friendly. You'll be able to tell by the "sunburst" on the label that says "energy conserving" inside the sunburst.

Otherwise, pretty much any other oil works, so long as it falls within the manufacturer's recommended weights. As for dino vs. synthetic, that's pretty much up to the owner which one you want to use. When I had my Gold Wing and Vulcans, I got Castrol ActEvo oil, usually at the local Cycle Gear store, as it was cheaper there than at a motorcycle dealer. ActEvo is a semi-synthetic oil, or more properly put, is a synthetic blend. Works well and is cheaper than full synthetic oil, but a bit more than pure dino oil. And the biggest benefit from using synthetic or semi-synthetic oil is that it doesn't break down as quickly as dino oil does, and you can go a bit longer between oil and filter changes.

If 10W30 oil is the weight oil you want to use, you can get it at any Honda dealer, as Honda recommends 10W30 for use in a Gold Wing, but it's not a car oil, and is clear of silicates and other friction modifiers that are detrimental to motorcycle engines.
"Silicates" are what is found in coolant, not in engine oils. Many oil makers make 30 weight m/c specific oils which are not "energy conserving" so do not have the friction modifiers as car oils do.

RACNRAY
 

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"MOLY" is short for molybdenum disulfide which is used as an extreme pressure lubricant. We use moly as an assembly lube on plain bearings, cams, journals, buckets, etc. It is not what is in car oils that may cause clutch slippage in a m/c engine. The car oils labeled "energy conserving" which are the 20 and 30 weight oils are typically the oils with the high levels of friction modifiers that are not friendly to our wet clutches.




"Silicates" are what is found in coolant, not in engine oils. Many oil makers make 30 weight m/c specific oils which are not "energy conserving" so do not have the friction modifiers as car oils do.

RACNRAY
Oops! Thanks for pointing that out. I misstated regarding silicates. You are absolutely correct. I think just referring to them as "friction modifiers" works best. I'm no chemist, that's for sure.
 

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On my old Sabre I used Mobil 1 Full synthetic Turbo Diesel Truck 5W40 oil without issue for many thousands of miles (OK around 30,000) . . . On my Voyager, I have found Castrol Motorcycle Full Synthetic 10W40 Oil for about 35 bucks a case which works out to be only $2 more per oil change and that is what I use - My Voyager runs like a charm with 20K on her now . . .
 

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Speaking of oil, Auto Zone has all of their motorcycle oil on sale until (about?) April 7th, for $2 off per qt. I just bought Valvoline and Castro 10w-40 and 20w-50 for $3.99 per qt. They also stock Castro full synthetic and Mobil One V-Twin, also on sale.
 

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I bought mobile one vtwin 10/40 on sale at advance auto for 7.99 a quart. Tried it last year and it seems smooth.
 

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Motorcycle Oil

As my Vulcan is one of the hottest-running motorcycle engines I've ever encountered, I moved to 10W50 full syn (Castrol Power RS 10W-50 4-Stroke Motorcycle Oil). Still within the Kawasaki spec. FYI - Moto Guzzi requires 10w60 full syn (air cooled engine) year round.
 

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You won't get any better advice that you've gotten here: "All the info on oil specs that you need to know is in your owner's manual." As long as it meets the spec in the owners manual it DOESN"T matter what the oil markets itself as. My only recommendation use synthetic vs. dino.
Alright, I'll admit it. I haven't done much research on car oils that meet Jaso MA standards.
I know about Salmonella-T and Deep Purple :rolleyes:; but are there very many more?

Also, I just kinda assume that when someone asks about car oil they mean your regular old Super tech type stuff. And if they are talking about Rotella or RP they ask by name.

Scott
 
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