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Discussion Starter #1
Even though I'm no gear head, I do enjoy tinkering a bit now and then. Oil changes are something I can handle (at least I can so far on my VTX). This is my wife's ride so I cannot screw it up...lol. This is her first oil change. Has about 800 miles on the bike (dealer said to wait to 1500....didn't make sense).

What I had planned on doing was using Amsoil 10-40. First question...is it too soon to go synthetic.

Owner's Manual says capacity w/ filter change is 3.4 qts (I always replace the filter). Since Amsoil comes in 4 qt containers, what is the easiest way to "remove" .6 qts from the bottle.

Process does not look difficult. Anything I should be aware of before I jump into this.

Thanks for the help.

Pete
 

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Don't know anything about synthetic oil. However while I deal in Litres up here we also deal in point something of a Litre, yet I normally buy larger containers. What I did was find and keep a clear plastic litre container with graduations on it. You might find a 2 Stroke Quart oil container. Even if it is not divided into tenth of a quart. A ruler and marker will get you close enough. Estimate 3.2 quarts and then check your oil level. Keep adding a little till you have enough
 

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Hi Pete,

I'm no expert on the topic, but I would anyway recomend to follow the guidelines from Kawasaki, which is this:

API SG or higher
JASO MA or MA1 or MA2
10w40

The JASO MA standard is to ensure that the wet clutch works proporly.

AS far as I know, this is the most important reason for choocing correct MC engine oil (not car engine oil)

The oil can be mineral based, semi synthetic or fully synthetic, as long as the above mentioned specifications are met.

Br Flemming
 

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No need to remove any from the container. Just keep dumping fresh oil in and checking the level on the site glass. I wouldn't worry about a few ounces too much or too little. There is an acceptable range, that is what the site glass is for.

It helps to have someone hold the bike level too, while you add oil. And then start it up (with the oil filler cap on!) and let the oil settle again. Add as much as necessary.

Not sure if you have researched already, but you do need to remove the regulator cover to remove the filter.

Matt
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys. Looks like I'm on the right track

Matt - yes I knew about the regulator cover, but thanks. Sometimes the simplest things get missed.

The way I change the oil on my X is to lift it onto a PepsX stand. That keeps the bike level and easier to fit the pan under. It will also give me enough stability to start her up to check the level.

Flemming - Amsoil does meet those specs. However, I have heard varying opinions as to when is the "proper" time to switch to synthetic. IMO, the sooner the better but opinions can and will vary.
 

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Thanks guys. Looks like I'm on the right track

Matt - yes I knew about the regulator cover, but thanks. Sometimes the simplest things get missed.

The way I change the oil on my X is to lift it onto a PepsX stand. That keeps the bike level and easier to fit the pan under. It will also give me enough stability to start her up to check the level.

Flemming - Amsoil does meet those specs. However, I have heard varying opinions as to when is the "proper" time to switch to synthetic. IMO, the sooner the better but opinions can and will vary.
The idea behind waiting to switch to synthetic is that synthetic oil is so slippery it can halt the break-in process and not allow the engine to break in as well. However, on these modern engines, manufactured to much tighter tolerances, I don't think you'll have ANY issue switching to synthetic at 800 miles.

Many vehicles these days come factory filled with synthetic oil. Including some motorcycles (all CVO Harley-Davidsons, for example). Mostly because the rings are seated at the factory. Truth be told, although the break in process might not be absolutely completed, the rings have seated likely within the first 20 or 30 minutes of your engine running, which is the primary concern when it comes to the type of oil used in the engine during this process.

-John
 

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oil change

I changed mine at 600 based on the owner's manual and the dealer recommendation. I used Kawasaki dinosaur oil, also based on the dealer recommendation. Next oil change will be to either Kawasaki or Mobil 1 full synthetic. Based on what the used oil looked like, 600 miles was plenty long to go. I am assuming the next oil change will not look so worn out, and I don't just mean dirty.

The regurgitator (okay, rectifier, but then someone else called it a regulator) was just an interesting side trip in the oil change. In the way, but no big deal.

I used an oil filter cap style wrench to get the filter off. It is in there a ways, so not much else gets at it. Plus, you can use a torque wrench with it to reinstall at the correct amount of tight. Do not overtighten either the oil filter or the drain bolt. For that matter, be careful with the oil fill plug.

After that, at the back of the owner's manual are the diagrams for checking bolt and nut torque all over the bike. That is important, don't skip it.
 

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I changed mine at 600 based on the owner's manual and the dealer recommendation. I used Kawasaki dinosaur oil, also based on the dealer recommendation. Next oil change will be to either Kawasaki or Mobil 1 full synthetic. Based on what the used oil looked like, 600 miles was plenty long to go. I am assuming the next oil change will not look so worn out, and I don't just mean dirty.

The regurgitator (okay, rectifier, but then someone else called it a regulator) was just an interesting side trip in the oil change. In the way, but no big deal.

I used an oil filter cap style wrench to get the filter off. It is in there a ways, so not much else gets at it. Plus, you can use a torque wrench with it to reinstall at the correct amount of tight. Do not overtighten either the oil filter or the drain bolt. For that matter, be careful with the oil fill plug.

After that, at the back of the owner's manual are the diagrams for checking bolt and nut torque all over the bike. That is important, don't skip it.
It's both! It's a regulator/rectifier, it does both jobs.

Also, I don't think you'll need a torque wrench for the oil filter. Half a turn past snug, hand tight, is all you need for that filter, and it'll make it not such a pain to get off the next time.
 

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No need to remove any from the container. Just keep dumping fresh oil in and checking the level on the site glass. I wouldn't worry about a few ounces too much or too little. There is an acceptable range, that is what the site glass is for.

It helps to have someone hold the bike level too, while you add oil. And then start it up (with the oil filler cap on!) and let the oil settle again. Add as much as necessary.

Not sure if you have researched already, but you do need to remove the regulator cover to remove the filter.

Matt
Gotta disagree here. Oil sight gauges are notoriously inaccurate. You best bet is to either measure out the correct amount of oil to begin with and just pour it in, or keep track of the amount by looking at the sight gauge on the back of the oil jug. A "few onces" too much oil could run the danger of too much oil and result in blow-by. Certainly you don't want to subject your engine to too much oil. OTOH, an ounce or two less really won't hurt anything, because as long as there is any oil in the engine, it will still lubricate the insides. The problem arises when there isn't enough oil to lubricate both the engine and transmission, as they both share the same oil.

Go ahead and make the switch to synthetic oil. Won't hurt anything. Your transmission will be smoother, if nothing else. Synthetic oil will not, however, increase your gas mileage or result in a higher top end speed or harder acceleration. Just don't expect that out of it.
 

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I did not use a torque wrench either, but you could. I have always believed in hand tight on an oil filter and have not had one leak since 1975 on my new Rabbit. The oil filter mount was defective.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Gotta disagree here. Oil sight gauges are notoriously inaccurate. You best bet is to either measure out the correct amount of oil to begin with and just pour it in, or keep track of the amount by looking at the sight gauge on the back of the oil jug.

Go ahead and make the switch to synthetic oil. Won't hurt anything. Your transmission will be smoother, if nothing else. Synthetic oil will not, however, increase your gas mileage or result in a higher top end speed or harder acceleration. Just don't expect that out of it.
I was going to track down an empty bottle and pour back .5 qt from the gallon jug. Seems the easiest.

I have been using Amsoil for about 5 years now in my VTX, so I am somewhat familiar with what to expect. But good to note.

I did not use a torque wrench either, but you could. I have always believed in hand tight on an oil filter and have not had one leak since 1975 on my new Rabbit. The oil filter mount was defective.
My rule of thumb is 1/4 turn past hand tighten. I can usually get it pretty tight by hand.
 

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I drained the oil on my 600 mile change from the oil screen drain plug and every other change since. Move bike from side to side to get the last bit out. This will get more of the contaminated old oil out and also the particulates left in the screen (if any) will give you an indication how the internal components are doing. Also the oil needed to replenish will be closer to 4 qts (3.7?).
 

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Even though I'm no gear head, I do enjoy tinkering a bit now and then. Oil changes are something I can handle (at least I can so far on my VTX). This is my wife's ride so I cannot screw it up...lol. This is her first oil change. Has about 800 miles on the bike (dealer said to wait to 1500....didn't make sense).

What I had planned on doing was using Amsoil 10-40. First question...is it too soon to go synthetic.

Owner's Manual says capacity w/ filter change is 3.4 qts (I always replace the filter). Since Amsoil comes in 4 qt containers, what is the easiest way to "remove" .6 qts from the bottle.

Process does not look difficult. Anything I should be aware of before I jump into this.

Thanks for the help.

Pete
I changed over to Amsoil 10-40 at 700 miles and now have 14,000. Bike runs great. I also change the filter every oil change. I put in 3 quarts, start the bike for a minute or so to fill up the filter, shut down and top off after letting her sit for a few minutes.
 
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