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Discussion Starter #1
Hello All,
This may be the wrong forum to post this but I thought I would at least start here. I am looking at possibly purchasing a '09 Nomad with about 23,000 miles on it from a one owner older gentleman that really takes good care of his stuff. My question is, he has detailed logs of maintenance on the bike but after looking into it he specified 10W40 oil changes by Castrol GT, Valvoline, Penzoil. So I asked if that was motorcycle specific oil his response was "High Quality Auto Oil". He used this based on his research and that water cooled engines run cooler than air cooled so not an issue. What's the opinion from you guys on this question/concern? I don't want to jump in on something and then have to replace the clutch. What on average is the cost associated with a clutch replacement anyway?

Anyway, if you guys would share some opinions on this I would appreciate it. I know oil topics are kinda frowned on but this is just a general question to get some feedback. The gentleman seems to be a stand up older retired guy that takes care of the bike and I'm not trying to bash or criticize him in anyway.

Thanks
Scott
 

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Hello All,
This may be the wrong forum to post this but I thought I would at least start here. I am looking at possibly purchasing a '09 Nomad with about 23,000 miles on it from a one owner older gentleman that really takes good care of his stuff. My question is, he has detailed logs of maintenance on the bike but after looking into it he specified 10W40 oil changes by Castrol GT, Valvoline, Penzoil. So I asked if that was motorcycle specific oil his response was "High Quality Auto Oil". He used this based on his research and that water cooled engines run cooler than air cooled so not an issue. What's the opinion from you guys on this question/concern? I don't want to jump in on something and then have to replace the clutch. What on average is the cost associated with a clutch replacement anyway?

Anyway, if you guys would share some opinions on this I would appreciate it. I know oil topics are kinda frowned on but this is just a general question to get some feedback. The gentleman seems to be a stand up older retired guy that takes care of the bike and I'm not trying to bash or criticize him in anyway.

Thanks
Scott
The danger of using automotive grade oils is that many contain friction modifiers such as molybdenum disulfide. This can cause clutch slippage.
If there is a round symbol on the oil container that states "energy conserving" or "friction modifiers" in the lower quadrant, you want to drain that oil from a bike as soon as possible.

Certain friction modifiers like "moly" have the potential to permanently damage the friction plates.

Take the bike for a good test drive to see if the clutch slips. If not, the bike may be O.K. provided you flush the oil and use a proper motorcycle oil or at least an automotive grade that does not contain the friction modifiers (like Rotella T conventional or T6 "Synthetic").
 

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Agree with Hammer. It also really depends on how the bike was ridden with auto oil and how frequently the oil was changed. A test ride is certainly in order.

Sadly he is likely right about the 10-40 but the rest he is still living pre-1980. However that doesn't mean the bike is damaged.

Good luck and please report back on the test ride.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Guys for the feedback. The logs he provided showed that the oil change intervals were between 2000 and 3000 miles and a couple of times he used the dealer to service the bike, which I feel certain they used motorcycle specific oil. He also performed a brake/clutch flush and antifreeze (which he used Preston there according to his notes). I'm trying to line up a visit, it's out of state, soon and will definitely test the clutch by being in either 4th or 5th gear and open the throttle to see if I hear a rev without thrust or take off.

Thanks again,
Scott
 

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As long as it meets the ratings set forth in the manual it is fine. If it has the friction modifiers added it can cause the clutch to slip, but probably only noticeable with hard accelerations.

Use it as a bargaining tool if you must and then put whatever oil in there you want
 
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