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Discussion Starter #1
So first got this 2006 Vulcan 900 EFI used it had been sitting saw some rust in bottom tank got it home cleaned tank out best I could cleaned fuel filter replaced fuel pump recently as it just went out replaced it with a Ideal one from Amazon. Usually I could clean fuel filter on it when it started sputtering and it would run good for a while. Now filter is clean and it's still sputtering I don't know if this has anything to do with it but when you remove the red clip and pull fuel line off at the bottom gas starts flowing out. I know it's not supposed to do that unless pump is running. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 

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How is your battery??

Reset disconnect and reconnect your battery to reset ECU.

Is your battery good??? Voltage?


:nerd::nerd::nerd:
 

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The shop manual for the 900 states that the fuel filter is integral to the pump and cannot be cleaned, but some owners have reported ignoring that and either tried cleaning the filter or removed the existing one and replaced it with a filter from ebay or other source. It is possible that the existing filter is blocked with foreign matter which cannot be removed by cleaning. Also the Amazon-bought replacement pump may be defective.

The Kawi shop manual for the 900 has been available online and has a series of diagnostic steps for testing the fuel pump, but none that I could find for testing fuel pump pressure. Basic electrical test - make certain that the battery is fully charged (12.8v is specified), connect a voltage tester to the pump leads or terminals. Obviously should be zero volts with the ignition switch off. Presumably the pump should be fully installed. Switch the ignition on and for three seconds the voltage at the fuel pump should be 12.8, then it should drop to zero. Should be able to hear the pump run for the initial three seconds. If the voltage is low or non-existent for the test the manual suggests checking the fuel pump relay.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Thanks guys tried unhooking battery to reset ecu and fuel pump is running for three seconds as soon as turn key on. It is popping in the air filter while your holding throttle steady and when riding it when u let off the throttle constantly back firing I'm stumped here I've Google googled thought about trying to replace the coils see if that would be it. Yeah getting the right voltage at the battery.
 

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Air sucking system

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/375186/Kawasaki-Vn900-Classic.html?page=41#manual


Air Suction SystemAir Suction System Damage Inspection•Pull the air switching valve hose [A] out of the right aircleaner housing.•Start the engine and run it at idle speed.•Plug the air switching valve hose end with your finger andfeel vacuum pulsing in the hose.If there is no vacuum pulsation, check the hose line forleak. If there is no leak, check the air switching valve(see Air Switching Valve Unit Test in the Electrical Sys-tem chapter) or air suction valve (see Air Suction ValveInspection in the Engine Top End chapter)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Will try that this evening when I get home I have been looking over the manual tryin to figure this out stumps me. Also when it acts up like this sputtering and bogging down air popping through breather had brother behind me on his bike and both pipes on inside will glow orange inside and wasn't like that when it was running normal has the factory pipes on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hey guys know been a while been trying to test things trying figure it out we bought a new fuel pump for it still didn't run no better we been trying to do the coil resistantance test and changed plugs still didn't help bought new boots didn't help so took to dealership to plug up to there computer said it had no active codes but in history had 3 ignition coil codes so bought new could for it from dealership and that actually made it better it responds to throttle better but still spits spitters a little while holding it at steady idle haven't tried riding it yet to see how it acts with a load on it but before when u went from idle to wide open throttle it would die now it's responding good shooting the rpms up pretty quickly just still spitters and spits out exhaust if u hold it at a steady throttle so afraid to try to ride it. Any ideas be greatly appreciated been looking at service manual searching for a answer but really don't know what to look into now.
 

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Red exhaust and intake backfire means lean, lean, lean!

Do a fuel pressure and flow check.

Does it have OEM pipes installed?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yeah everything on it is OEM still even has baffles in the pipes. Test rode it today. Ran little better didn't see red exhaust this time but did do it before but not this time just still spitti g and sputtering someone told us sounds like the throttle control sensor but idk how do u check the throttle control sensor I located it but don't quite understand how u test it. What tool u recommend for testing the pressure and flow pressure seems good.


Red exhaust and intake backfire means lean, lean, lean!

Do a fuel pressure and flow check.

Does it have OEM pipes installed?
[/QUOTE]
 

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1. I understand that Harbor Freight carries the needed tool for a reasonable price.
2. If the pipes were indeed glowing, then there is a good chance the catalytic converters have been cooked.
3. Post a picture of your plugs before doing anything else.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Here's the plugs, been riding it hoping it will clear up backfires a lot on deceleration as well. People I've talked to locally saying the TPS sensor but not sure could it be that or air pressure sensor possibly? Stumped here just don't know what direction to lean into as not sure what it could be? Poured seafoam down cylinder through spark plug and all seafoam came out halfway down cylinder. Not good not good


1. I understand that Harbor Freight carries the needed tool for a reasonable price.
2. If the pipes were indeed glowing, then there is a good chance the catalytic converters have been cooked.
3. Post a picture of your plugs before doing anything else.
 

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Chelton, your spark plugs are showing a very lean fuel mixture. You said the bike was running normally before it started backfiring. So clearly something has changed. My guess would be your bike does not have O2 sensors (since most VN900s don't), so the ECU fuel maps are fixed and depend on correct inputs to get the fuel mixture right. Now those inputs are incorrect and you are running lean.

I agree with sfair, you need to run a fuel pressure test, but you have already replaced the fuel pump and experienced no change in symptoms. Have you been able to get diagnostic codes out of the bike yet? I think a sensor has failed, but it could be expensive to start replacing factory sensors. So I would try and narrow down the problem sensor. I would guess throttle position sensor (TPS) or manifold absolute pressure sensor, but it could be other things. If the failure was rather sudden, then most likely it is one thing that failed. An error code would be extremely helpful here.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yeah we had bike to dealership they was nice enough to hook it to there computer that morning said it didn't show no active codes at the moment but in history it had 3 ignition coil trouble codes so we replace the coils but found it has two blown head gaskets yesterday so that's probably causing the issue hoping we did the resistance test on the sub throttle sensor like the book mentioned to the sensor it tested good within range but haven't tested ecu yet but we're gonna fix the blown head gaskets first see how it acts afterwards.

Chelton, your spark plugs are showing a very lean fuel mixture. You said the bike was running normally before it started backfiring. So clearly something has changed. My guess would be your bike does not have O2 sensors (since most VN900s don't), so the ECU fuel maps are fixed and depend on correct inputs to get the fuel mixture right. Now those inputs are incorrect and you are running lean.

I agree with sfair, you need to run a fuel pressure test, but you have already replaced the fuel pump and experienced no change in symptoms. Have you been able to get diagnostic codes out of the bike yet? I think a sensor has failed, but it could be expensive to start replacing factory sensors. So I would try and narrow down the problem sensor. I would guess throttle position sensor (TPS) or manifold absolute pressure sensor, but it could be other things. If the failure was rather sudden, then most likely it is one thing that failed. An error code would be extremely helpful here.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hey guys currently still working on getting motor back together. I have a question hopefully someone can help me with. Noticed manual says if u buy a new cylinder to use the cap comes with cylinder as there machined together. I got my cams and the cam shaft caps mixed up I did not order a new cylinder as I didn't need one but does it matter which cam goes where and cap? The caps are not marked there is one cam has a R on it with a paint marker looks like any help be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 

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Chelton, I can't really help with that one. Just guessing, does the "R" mean rear, as in the rear cylinder? My guess would be the cam caps need to go back where they came from. I'm thinking when they were created, the caps were bolted in place BEFORE the final boring for the cam bearings. If you mix them up, the alignment for the cam bearings will be incorrect.
 

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I have not had this happen to me but have replaced my share of bearing caps in this life.
Are they visually the same? Would a picture from someone else help?
Do you have any tools to measure the bores accurately (Micrometer with telescopic gauges/ bore gauges, etc?)
Failing that, you can fit the camshafts and swap the caps and pick the way that gives the best fit and freedom of rotation.

Good luck with it.
 
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