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Hello

I have a new to me Vulcan 500 that was not running right. I changed the spark plugs and got it to start up and when trying to adjust the idle, the idle screw came completely out of place. Now I am not sure where it goes back in. Does anyone have a picture they can show me of their so I can see where it goes? I am also trying to avoid taking the carbs out if possible and there isn't much room to see where it goes...thanks!
 

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2009 Vulcan 500
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I can't get a picture of it on the bike.
But it's a flexible cable type shaft that goes through a threaded area on the carb.. the threaded area is kind long actually and should take many turns to actually fall out.
But if it has fallen out you will have to pull the carbs.. find the spring and put it back together.. the spring goes on the flexible shaft side.. you run that cable shaft through there.. turn until the throttles cracks open.. you will see three small hole that are behind the butterfly.. you want to turn the idle screw in until that first hole is about uncovered... That will have you close enough to get you started..
If you can't find the spring... Then set the idle ( on the bench) until the first hole is exposed... Measure the gap... The go up to the hardware store and find a spring that you can at least compress with your fingers... Take it home and cut it about a quarter inch longer than the gap.
Unscrew the cable shaft... Install spring and shaft.. turn shaft back in until first hole behind butterfly is pretty much is exposed.

If your engine idle speed would not slow down with backing down the idle speed screw.. I suspect either a vacuum leak or your throttle cable did not have any slack.. the engine should have not ran with the idle speed knob backed out enough to close the throttle completely.. it will take several turns to make it fall out.
The fuel enricher circuit... The bar that slides back and forth to act as a choke..if it is not shutting off the enricher circuits all the way.. that will allow fuel and air to pass through those circuits and also can make it possible to run with the idle speed knob screws backed enough to close the throttle completely.
Most of the problems are boot leaks though.. the boots have an angle on them.. making them a mild 'elbow'.. elbow goes to the top.. be sure the elbows are on proper and they are on square on the intakes with the elbow up.. and the carbs are in square .
Also before you take it apart... Check for vacuum leaks at the vacuum ports... The one on the right goes up to the smog crap.. pull it off and see if can draw air through with your mouth... If you can.. you have a leak in the smog crap.
Go to the left side... With your fuel petcock in the on position.. remove the vacuum line on the carb(not the fuel line).. now draw on that line with your mouth.. if you can suck air.. or start getting gas coming through that hose you have a leak..if fuel.. you will have to repair the petcock.. if air.. then possibly the hose is just loose fitting or the petcock is also in need of repair.

Getting the carbs off is not fun.. loosen your clamps and take off your vacuum hoses.
Remove seat.. remove tank.. there will be smog lines on tank.. let them attached and sit tank where the seat was... Snap a picture of your cable adjusters... Maybe even take a sharpie and put a dot where the nuts are on the shafts as a starting point....loosen them up a several turns.

Upon reassembly you want the throttle at the bars closed fully.. adjust the return cable where there is just a touch of slack.. Ideally there is supposed to be no slack..but I don't like the idea of being able to actually force tension against a closed throttle .. so just a touch of slack for the return..for the throttle opening cable you want a little slack... Say an eight of an inch or so.. move the bars back and forth and be sure you still have a little slack at the throttle grip in all positions.

Also.. getting one of those cables back on the carb was a little tricky .. I don't remember which one now... But you have to almost double back the cable against itself..as there isn't much room.. I used a pick so I didn't have to bend the cable as far back.. if you don't have a pick set . You can probably use a piece of heavy wire.. maybe a small screw driver or something.
Removing the carbs suck no doubt.. but it's not that bad.. just a pain in the rear.
You will see.. there isn't much room when you pull the carbs back... You will cuss a little.. Oh man why didn't they give me another quarter inch..anyway.. once the carbs are free of the boots.. the carbs need to be lowered a little .. you can then snake them out.
You will have about an hour invested in this if this is your first time pulling these carbs out and putting them back in.. just take a couple small breaks along the way as to not get aggravated with the limited room they gave us to remove them.
Also be sure to install those cables before putting the carbs fully back in.. much easier.. then adjust them.. before putting the tank back on.
 

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Once you get to carb to this position it's smooth sailing.
I forget.. remove the fuel hose at the tank... And try not to disturb those plastic rails on the carb after you remove the carbs.. those O rings are old.


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I was able to just shove the entire phone under it and use the front camera


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Discussion Starter #6
I was able to just shove the entire phone under it and use the front camera


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Hey rider, thank you for your thorough response. I appreciate it. I have attached a picture, is this where i circled, where the cable for the idle is supposed to thread to?
 

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Hey rider, thank you for your thorough response. I appreciate it. I have attached a picture, is this where i circled, where the cable for the idle is supposed to thread to?
If it's a threaded hole and it lines up with the idle stop plate on the carb ... yes..it looks like it's the right one from here..99 percent sure



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