See your previous thread on this same subject, post #5.
Just replacing stuff usually ends in failure and the issue has to be troubleshot.
At this point, it is not known if it is electrical or some other problem.
Apparently my co-worker was messing with it last night, I adjusted the idle back to normal.1. Why is it idling so fast?
2. Still recommend raising rear wheel and testing.
Ok, got the wheel off the ground and she appears to shift fine.OK. Post back with results.
Maybe it is in two gears at once and when you raise the wheel, it will still stall. Need to know that.
Are you SURE it is in first gear?
Yes I have given it more throttle when the clutch is engaged but still same result.On your video, you do not give any more throttle when the clutch starts to grab. Have you tried that?
Damn, you're good. The one pipe is cold as can be. Guess my first step is to pull the plug out and test the coil. From there I think I am lost.What about the pipes and the idle?
If you cannot get it to idle properly without cranking up the idle screw, there is the problem.
Oh, and the idle is still kind of high. Still need to investigate that.Damn, you're good. The one pipe is cold as can be. Guess my first step is to pull the plug out and test the coil. From there I think I am lost.
Thanks again!
RPeach72
Hey, I'm not sure what you mean by no taking anything apart, where you referring to the idle knob? I was planning on removing the plug, while still attached to the coil to see if it sparks.It is only running on one cylinder. That is why it has no power to launch and the idle has to be cranked up.
First step is to check for spark on cold cylinder. Do not take anything apart until that is done.
Post back with results or questions.
I swapped the coils, then the plugs. Now both pipes are steaming hot, but same result. Idle is still high, do you think that has something to do with the problem?You are on the right track.
When you said "test the coil", I was unsure what you meant by that.
