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Discussion Starter #1
Had the reg/rec replaced then did myself second time and THEN took it to shop...
They said it was likley the same thing again....told them i just replaced it and that i had a wiring harness to put on but no time...should have done it myself...they replaced the reg/rec then said it was STILL heating up (reg/rec) and told me it was likely a short somewhere..took them the wiring harness (used) and they took over a month and a half ($475 Reg/harness/labor)to fix it...rode ok coming home though different -seemed to have less "get up N
Go" but it seemed smoother and able to wind out more between gears (wierd i know).
So since bringing it home this is first day out...missing as before and i noticed that the "GROUND wire" coming off the reg/rec and bullet to a battery cable and grounded to frame getting VERY hot...to hot to hold in hand...tried grounding to bATTERY AND THAT DID NOT HELP...IROICALLY THE OLD WIREHARNESS HAD A BURNED OUT SLOT WHERE THAT GROUND WIRE GOES INTO THE REG/REC....stange days indeed !!!
any help is greatly apreciated...
buster
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi sfair, thanks for the help (and before also)...it seems the black/yellow wire does not get hot with the key in on position (not runing)...the white wire is normal....I can't check to see if it will be hot with key on after runing and stopping engine while leaving key on because a sudden downpour with the seat off got everythibg wet and will not start...Gonna let it dry a bit while charging battery then check it again...but no the wire only seems to get hot with the bike runing and white wire seems to stay normal...and as I remember the blk/yell was not heating up with just the key turned on.
Thanks again sfair,,,bstr
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the follow up...I did not have a chance to try with full charged battery yet because my much needed vacation came up and i am in florida now...flying back to Pa on Friday night so Sat I will install the battery and try it out...
I was wondering however that since the old rectifier was replaced with a new one and the wiring harness was replaced with a used one if perhaps the problem might be with the ground wire could be faulty like the first one was....hindsight tells me instead of the $40 cheap part I maybe should have gone with a new wiring harness....BUT then I think.."if it is NOT the problem I would have spent $$$ needlessly"....ESPECIALLY at a place that I am not fond of for several reasons...but that's mute at this point...
As stated before the ground wire connection AND rec slot on the OLD set up were melted...but being both have been replaced and STILL getting hot may have happened again had I continued to run the bike - which I will not do untill the matter is "RECTIFIED" LOL !!
I appreciate your help on this and I will be sure to post back Sat. 3/31 as soon as I put it together and fire it up AFTER double checking that the heat up is not occurring with key on (not running) then starting it up for a couple minutes (or untill) wire gets too hot)..
last thought is weather or not it could be a design flaw or if the stator is putting out too much since these VN750's are notorious for stator problems...though this one was tested several times and reported to be working fine....
TTYS and thaks again sfair for your help in this matter...
buster
 

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That is too bad that the harness was replaced. There is always the possibility of introducing a new problem and then some real tail chasing begins.
Try the key on test first and post back with your results.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
yes the harness replacement seems not to have corrected yet not introduced any additional problems since it is the same problem occuring as before...on the bright side at least now I have 99 % back up of the harness should just one wire or something mess up in the future...
will post Sat.
thanks
bstr
 

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Discussion Starter #8
mind boggling

Hi sfair, death in family kept me from doing the check on the wire till now... stuck in a fully charged battery and turned key on (w/out starting) and there was no heating up of the wire....once i started it did not seem to get hot nearly as quickly - and when it did it seemed to be nearly the same heat on ALL wires coming from the rectifier....and it seems as though the heat is relavent to how hot the rect itself is getting....so other than a slight miss (or just not sounding up to par) i gave it a try by riding to the parts store about 10 minutes away to get plugs for it and my virago 1100..
well it seemed to run almost ok going there BUT when i tried to start up from there it cranked a bit (10 secs each attempt) but not starting so i felt wire and it was acceptable for heat...but after about 6 attempts to start the battery died...i managed to push about 10 mph and "pop clutched" and it fired right up...
drove home (10 min away) and tried to start after shutting down but battery was too weaK....
THIS BIKE IS DRIVING ME NUTS...NO HELP THAT THE SHOP SAID IT WAS FIXED WHEN they charged me $470 and kept it about 6 weeks....just to end up still having same problem...as stated before i thought when i picked it up it just did not seem right...but now i am convinced....if they could not fix it they should have just said that...GEEZ !!!
Sorry i am venting instead of sticking to the problem and solution but i am at wits end...
thanks for listening...
buster
 

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We will give your problem a whirl. Just give me a day or so.
Had a '97 Virago 1100...a bulletproof piece of machinery!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
reply

Thanks for the call back....
WOW..small world on the Virago 1100...I love that bike..Bought it last June for $2400 with less than 9K miles ..was a bit doubtfull since it had not been started in 4 yrs.,,,,But changed fluids, plugs and bingo...ran a bit funky till got some system cleaner ran through..Put 3.000 miles on since June (primary transportation)..only problem was the lower clutch adjustment screw..all good now...
was going to sell the Vulcan but figured I would need it as a back up....
Anyway ..I apreciate you looking into my problem and look forward to hearing from you...
Thanks again...
bstr
 

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Do you have a meter and know how to use it?
If yes, then post back with make and model.
If no, then we can help there, too.

Post back.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I don't have a meter but was planning to get one..just did not know what to get since i don't really know how to use it either....
Watched a freind use one on my Vulcan before I ended up taking to the "crappy" shop....I was looking at the bike manual and can kind of get the basics of testing...
Could you tell me what is a good one at a reasonable price?
thanks
 

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You can go to most any auto parts place, Sears, Home depot, etc.
Around $30 will get you a decent one. Try and get one with an "audible tone".
That feature can be handy.

Post back when you have it and I can help you with the meter while doing some tests.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
sorry took a while to get back...taxes and also i jinxed my virago bragging because it is missing now...
but about the meter for testing the vulcan...the only one i found with sound is at autozone for $54. the price is not a big problem...i just want to make sure i am getting the correct tool..as i said i need one anyway...
but if you could tell me if this is good to use i would go and get it...
the site is:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/OEM-Multimeter-measure-AC-DC-voltage-DC-current-and-resistance-frequency-2-kHz-Dwell-tachometer-continuity-buzzer-data-hold-and-low-battery-display/_/N-26lr?itemIdentifier=900818&_requestid=410684
i know that is a LONG address but it should take you right to it (i tested the address first)...if it does not then if you could go to
"autozone"
the part # is:
UT106
thanks in advance for you feedback and guidance...
bstr
 

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Discussion Starter #15
multimeter

i was just about to send a page for autozone to you to see if the $54 one w/sound is...well anyway i remembered someone gave me a meter that did not work (yes why take it)..turns out when i just dug it out and opened it there was a blown fuse...inserted one and I need to get a lead for it but wanted to tell ya it is a ;
"MICRONTA" auto range digital multimeter and the top buttons are left to right 1) off/on/cont.. 2) auto.. 3)down 4)up..
dial is DCV - ACV - "a green arrow" - K with OHM symbol - DCmA and ACma...
below the dial on left is a switch for 10A and 300mA..
bottom row of 3 holes for leads are left to right:
1) AC/DC amps only 10A unfused...2) 750v MAX ..and the third hole says 1000v DC, 750v AC, 300mA MAX...
ok...now before you think i am as nuts as i really am the reason i wrote all this info is because i could not find a pic or manual or anything else online relating to this thing...everything BUT this one...but it works so i will get the ground lead and await your reply...will not have chance to work on it till Saturday.....
Thanks in advance for all your time, feedback and guidance...
bstr
 

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If the Micronta works OK, it will be fine. If you have to buy one, the Actron CP7672 will also do. (Autozone) It does not have a beeper, but the other meter you noted is too expensive for that feature. The tone can be nice, but definitely not mandatory at that price!
If the Micronta works, great...if you have to buy, go for the Actron.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
it is working so far but i did not get to the store for the lead i need...i think i heard the micronta beep when i pushed one of the buttons so we shall see...i will post back after sure it reads..
TTYS
bstr
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
I got the Leads (only came in 2 pk)..was 14 bucks but if it does the job well worth it....has pins AND attachable Gator clips for going that route if needd...saw meters @ walmart for $13 or so but they looked like junk...
this meter seems like it will do the trick if you still have have time to help..
Hope I am able to follw the guidance and direction to figure this thing out...
Virago has a miss and backfire that i also need to look into...runing 1/2 bottle of Seafoam through the system right now ,,,,then if it still acts up will look into whatever other options may help after the foam, new fuel filter and cleaning what i can of carbs while still on the bike....
So finally have some time over the weekend to look at getting this testing in the works and THEN maybe if any time left i can look at the 1100...i am sorry it takes a while to get on here and ready for schooling....job is VERY busy & hectic (more than usual...)
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
well am set to try testing but it looks like rain...thinking of using plastic to make a small dry "shelter" ...but may wait till tomorrow (Sun) as not to risk getting things wet again...
could you offer some insight on where to start testing and what the readings should be ?...i have the Clymer manual but seeing as elctric is not one of my strong siuts i'm sure some knowledgable tips from you would make it less difficult for me than the manual...
thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #20
weather is GREAT today...debating weather to try to tackle the vulcan electrical or the virago air/fuel matter....
since i have to check for a vacume leak first on the 1100 and it is my primary M.O.T. think i will start there...hope it's a not to difficult a fix (stopped using the word "EASY" after numerous time consuming times i called a job EASY !!)
Anyway the electrical section of manual for the vulcan is not the easiest thing to understand so while asking for some guidance from you guys i will try to tackle the virago issue...
 
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