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1600 Fuel Pump/Filter removal

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16K views 31 replies 6 participants last post by  DaveGHahn  
#1 ·
Anyone here experienced at removing the fuel pump from the tank? It seems too big to come out? I need help...
 
#2 ·
Might be wrong, but if I recall, it's not meant to be serviced.
 
#5 ·
Not so fast. I already removed the tank and tried to remove the fuel pump but it is actually larger in circumference than the access hole due to some plastic at the tip, turning 90 degrees. It's not coming out unless I break it apart.

Have you already done this before? Do you own a Vulcan 1600 Classic?
 
#6 ·
I own a 2005 VN1600 Classic. Purchased new. I have 38K on it! I have removed the fuel pump before thinking I was going to replace or service the fuel filter! But there is no serviceable filter! There is a screen you can clean. If I remember correctly you do have too twist and turn to get pump out. You might also try to removing fuel gauge sending unit! Use a pencil eraser to clean the pickup contacts on this sending unit! The gauge will read more accurate. Are you thinking fuel pump might be bad?
 
#7 ·
Thanks for the info. Not quite sure on the fuel pump yet. It starts after the ignition is keyed but it might be electrical. I'm going to recheck everything (fuses, wiring) after disturbing the area with a battery change. Also, ordered a new relay that drives the pump and injectors. Waiting on that part. We have the same bike.
 
#8 ·
I’m in the process of waiting for parts to change out clutch. Started slipping, mainly at higher speed in 4-5 gear while accelerating. The clutch spring is a weak link! Keep a good strong battery in your bike! They require a lot of cranking amps! Also keep a battery tender on it! You can’t bump start these bikes!
 
#9 ·
I just replaced the battery and bought a new battery charger/tender (2 amp). My old tender quite and that started the whole problem. I thought it was charging but sat for months with a dead battery.

My original intention was (like your) to clean the fuel filter. I'd like more info on cleaning that screen. I may need to get back in the tank if the issue is not electrical. I have less than 30K miles so I haven't had clutch issues. Mostly routine maintenance and tires. I have it dressed with a fairing, upgraded seats, backrest, radio, and bags, and chrome road burner pipes. All black. Pretty.

I always wonder about the wheel bearings, though. I wouldn't want that to go bad at 60 mph.
 
#10 ·
How long have you owned the bike?
I’m on the 6th battery! A week or low output battery in these bikes are no good! It will actually make them run like crap! And I’m on my 6th rear tire and 4th front! I change both front and rear wheel bearings at about 25k. Not sure if I really needed to (got talked into it)? Keep the oil clean! Don’t use full synthetic! You can use a synthetic blend! I was told by Kawasaki mechanic that the clutches aren’t designed for full synthetic. I changed to “Engine Ice” coolant about 6-7 years ago. Great product! Had a “squeaky” water pump. Went away when I switched to engine ice.
My bike is black and chrome! Kawasaki sissy bar, wind shield and leather “wide” saddle bags. Pipes are stock.
 
#11 ·
I bought mine used back in 2012. I'm on my 3rd battery. I use synthetic blend and Engine Ice, too. Great stuff. I have never used full synthetic oil on anything (including cars). Ha. Mine is black and chrome with the same sissy bar. I'm in my 60's and it just keeps getting heavier. My son has a Nomad (same color), another nice machine.
 
#12 ·
Yeah I hear you on how heavy it is. I keep thinking I’m going to replace it with something more of the “Adventure” style but it’s so comfortable and reliable. 90% of the miles are touring miles all over the West! I live in Portland and have traveled as far as EL Paso TX. It rides really well even fully loaded. A couple things I wish it had is more mileage on the tank and more suspension travel! Sounds like we’re close to the same age. My son rides also. He had a Vulcan 900 for a time but wrecked it. Now has a Yamaha Bolt.
 
#13 ·
So it turns out my fix (relay) is not the issue. I will still need to check at the wiring but may end up pulling out (partially) the fuel pump again. I could use your help if you can recall the job as it pertains to cleaning the filter/mesh, whatever. I tried to remove it before but it is too big on the plastic end because of another piece attached. It resides in the metal cap that is removed from the tank. Where exactly can I clean it? Is it in the metal cap? If so, can I remove the pump for that?

I also checked every fuse except the one on the negative battery lead. I think that goes to the starter so it wouldn't even crank if it was bad. Any help will be appreciated.

It's one of the following:

1. Fuel pump
2. Fuel filter
3. Fuel injectors
4. Wiring

Regarding long trips, I live in Florida but am originally from Detroit. I lived in California when I was in the military and a bunch of us bought new bikes. I got a Kawasaki 750 (inline 4) and drove that thing from northern California to Detroit, and back. That was a long ride, for sure. Speedometer was pegged most of the way.
 
#14 ·
Yes. Were you able to remove the tank from the bike? That’s the only way to remove the pump. Before you remove the tank to get too the pump try the following. Just under the seat above the battery are 3 electrical connections, 2 of which go to the tank. One is for the gas gauge sending unit the other is for the fuel pump! Try unplugging and plugging back in. They have locking lugs on them make sure they snap in! As a matter of fact I just had my tank off my bike this morning changing the coolant! Literally the service manual says “ If the pump screen or fuel filter is suspected of clogging or being damaged, replace it with the fuel pump as a set”! All I had done in the past was spray the screen for with carb cleaner and reinstalled!
 
#15 ·
Hot damn! I found the problem.

I rechecked every wire again because I knew it had to be related to my battery replacement. I have a lot of wiring under the seat because I've added fog lamps and a light bar up front, requiring relays and fuses, and LED lights on the rear fender. I use a battery with four posts.

Anyway, I found a tiny black ground wire that was not connected to the negative battery post. The machine fired after connecting it. It ran badly for awhile. I added some seafoam and got a little improvement. Then it stopped. What?

Well, I must have disturbed the furl gauge when I removed it for a look the same time I tried to pull the fuel pump from the tank last month. So I added gas and it fired right up.

Everything is good now. I just have to put it all back together and give it a bath.

Thanks for being a soundboard. I was beating myself up pretty bad.
 
#20 ·
So I'm ready to do an oil change and coolant change to get ready for summer riding. Engine Ice for sure. I noticed I've been using Mobil 1 V-Twin synthetic and you advised against full synthetic. What BLEND synthetic are you using? I haven't encountered any issues but maybe I should switch.
 
#21 ·
Hello, Well I purchased my bike new in 2005 from Kawasaki dealership. I brought it in for 1st service to have oil changed and standard look over. Talk to the tech that actually work on my bike. I asked what oil they used and he told me they use Kawasaki’s conventional 10w-40! I asked if I could use full synthetic? He told me no, that the clutch’s aren’t designed to handle full synthetic! He said I could get away with a motorcycle purposed synthetic blend like Castrol ActEvo X-Tra 4T Semi-Synthetic 4-Stroke Motor Oil 10-40! It didn’t uses to be called ActEvo. But that’s what I use! I also use a K&N filter KN-204. I want to say at one time the Vulcangadget website has some info on this subject at one time?
 
#22 ·
Thanks. I actually browsed the Cycle Gear store website and selected the Castrol blend this morning. Castrol Actevo X-TRA Semi-Synthetic 4T Engine Oil

I use Castrol in all my cars. It's been good to me. I'll go with it in the bike instead of that Mobil 1 so I don't encounter clutch issues. And the K&N filter is they have it in stock. If not, I go to the auto parts store and get a Purolator Pure One PL 14610 instead. Perfect fit.