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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Howdy.

Ive got a 1700 vulcan, fi. Ive yanked the tank breather valve, have new plugs, new battery, charging voltage @14.7~ holdin steady thru the rpms. New rad cap, temp sensor; fan engages correctly. I've drained the tank, replaced the fuel pump, scraped grounds, reseated every connection the thing. Clutch switch and kickstand switch are shorted via solder AND a crimp.

Turn the key, pump primes, flip the kill over to on, hit the starter. Bike starts willingly, then goes thru a rough idle. Eventually it figgures itself out and steadys. Once you get going it runs great, and then cuts out from under you. Sometimes it will restart if you just let it be and then itl pop and away we go.. only for it to do it again in short order. Bike seems to be hotter, those 1700s are hot as is. When it cuts out lights stay on, dash gives no warnings aside from oil light. Im not sure if it throws codes bc the FI indicator never comes on. I have no processor on and aside from a kn filter and cobra pipes its bone stock. Even put the baffles back in. Pops on decel but its always done that. 41,000 happy miles 10 unhappy.
 

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How long do you get to ride it for and how long do you have to wait in between when it cuts out and starts again? What does it sound like and or do and or you do as it is cutting out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
How long do you get to ride it for and how long do you have to wait in between when it cuts out and starts again? What does it sound like and or do and or you do as it is cutting out?
It varies. Could be 10 seconds could be 10 minutes. It does it idling, at speed, whenever it feels like it. No warning, just cuts the motor off. Clutch in hit the starter and it comes right back on.
 

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I'd fill her up, get myself some tools, go ridin', chasin' some demons....
It varies. Could be 10 seconds could be 10 minutes. It does it idling, at speed, whenever it feels like it. No warning, just cuts the motor off. Clutch in hit the starter and it comes right back on.
Sounds like you will be "chasing demons" every 10 seconds to 10 minutes on that ride but, don't forget the tools.......like if you had them it could be fixed, of course one would have to know what is wrong

Doublecheck all your connections....
Ive got a 1700 vulcan, fi. Ive yanked the tank breather valve, have new plugs, new battery, charging voltage @14.7~ holdin steady thru the rpms. New rad cap, temp sensor; fan engages correctly. I've drained the tank, replaced the fuel pump, scraped grounds, reseated every connection the thing. Clutch switch and kickstand switch are shorted via solder AND a crimp.
Nope, that hasn't been done.

Its either fuel or electrical issue....
Four conditions needed to make an engine run.......air, fuel, spark (electronics), and exhaust. Guess you only need to troubleshoot 50% of your engine.

go into self diagnostics and just see if the ecu is throwing out a code. These are some very advanced bikes, the ecu's are tied into most
And the ending conclusion......lets wait and see what a computer tells. Sounds like the computer IS the mechanic being so advanced. I am no "mechanic", you just got one's advice, but might I ask when the carb was cleaned last? ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sounds like you will be "chasing demons" every 10 seconds to 10 minutes on that ride but, don't forget the tools.......like if you had them it could be fixed, of course one would have to know what is wrong




Nope, that hasn't been done.


Four conditions needed to make an engine run.......air, fuel, spark (electronics), and exhaust. Guess you only need to troubleshoot 50% of your engine.



And the ending conclusion......lets wait and see what a computer tells. Sounds like the computer IS the mechanic being so advanced. I am no "mechanic", you just got one's advice, but might I ask when the carb was cleaned last? ;)
The computer doesnt throw any codes; ice strip the bike of all its vac lines and harnes cleaned and replaced almost the entire fuel system except for the injectors which are getting cleaned now, it doesnt have a carb its fuel injected. Intake boots are solid gassed for air leaks and smoked for exhaust. Im going to ohm the coils this weekend when i put the injectors back in once they come back from the pulser.
 

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Would not hurt to rule out the coils but, usually the just die or the windings will start to short out and it is close to dead. What will happen is with heat everything expands and once it is close enough for the arc to jump across it shorts and dies. BUT, usually the have to cool for bit before it will restart and yours does not require that.

Just an old shade tree mechanic here and I don't nor have ever owned your model so, excuse my lack of specific "know" on your model, its not my trade. Knowing now about the injectors that is a very good possibility if they are dirty or going. The next possible thing is what is controlling them. This could be from a bad ground situation, and I believe the injectors ground on the housing so, them being taken out and cleaned may very well fix that. From there it could be a connection issue interrupting the power signal the injector is receiving. As the ECU would detect if there was a main problem with a component, and you are not getting codes, I'd say its one of the above mentioned before it.

If the injectors are good the I'd take a real good look at all the connections between them and ECU. Maybe a wire is loose in a connector or partially broke and the bumps and vibs going through the bike interrupt connectivity. With you mentioning it running bad on start up and have problems while riding that is showing problems at low to high range operation so I'd have to think the injectors first.
 

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Lets just get this shit out in the open.....YOU got a problem with me?????
Hmm first sorry Rok someone could not find a better way to deal with this than on your thread.

DragonLady that is quite a statement to throw out at me considering the post you made after mine in another thread, see link below. Person posted needing help, it sat there most the day with no response so, I start to help to have you tell them to basically wait for a mechanic in the very next post, see below too.
Air/fuel issue. Bike dies on throttle.
OK, it not the air that has to be changed, its that amount of fuel in the mix...I don't have the patience anymore to talk someone thru this, I did a almost 40 year stint as a bike mechanic, I just do it, but hopefully Btom, Sabre-T, Wesblank or some of our other 'Wenches' will come to your aid. In the meantime, make sure all your vacuum lines are on and tight.
What other mods have been done to the biker?
So noting the bold text above, why did you even bother to respond to it in the first place????? Next, you was completely wrong in your diagnosis, in that post, and even after you telling the person to basically disregard 'non-mechanics' of the site, completely not giving me any credit for being able to help every person fix their problems since I got on the site and not to mention any respect in doing it, I thought I gave you much more respect, courtesy, and consideration to 'what you do know' than you just gave me!

Lastly, your great suggestion to this person seeking help is to basically load up the bike with tools, go ride the bike until the component fails, incur a tow bill because they don't know what is wrong TO fix it, and come back and tell the "mechanic" what code the computer said. WOW, now there is some expertise in the world of motorcycles. I will have to give some credit on ruling out the air and exhaust for potential problems. Of course by the symptoms he is stating someone would have had to shove a banana in the exhaust and intake so pretty easy to rule out.

No, I don't have a problem with you. I don't think it is nice of people to only somewhat read a post and then post back all techy like they know something sending them on a wild goose chase for their answer which usually gets pricey completely being rude to someone trying to help. I know that covers the two threads in one statement but you did start it here. I'd have to ask........do you have a problem with me giving correct answers???? Cause I think we got some bruised ego here. It walks like a duck and quacks like a duck.......I call it a DUCK!

My apology again Rok!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hmm first sorry Rok someone could not find a better way to deal with this than on your thread.

DragonLady that is quite a statement to throw out at me considering the post you made after mine in another thread, see link below. Person posted needing help, it sat there most the day with no response so, I start to help to have you tell them to basically wait for a mechanic in the very next post, see below too.
Air/fuel issue. Bike dies on throttle.

So noting the bold text above, why did you even bother to respond to it in the first place????? Next, you was completely wrong in your diagnosis, in that post, and even after you telling the person to basically disregard 'non-mechanics' of the site, completely not giving me any credit for being able to help every person fix their problems since I got on the site and not to mention any respect in doing it, I thought I gave you much more respect, courtesy, and consideration to 'what you do know' than you just gave me!

Lastly, your great suggestion to this person seeking help is to basically load up the bike with tools, go ride the bike until the component fails, incur a tow bill because they don't know what is wrong TO fix it, and come back and tell the "mechanic" what code the computer said. WOW, now there is some expertise in the world of motorcycles. I will have to give some credit on ruling out the air and exhaust for potential problems. Of course by the symptoms he is stating someone would have had to shove a banana in the exhaust and intake so pretty easy to rule out.

No, I don't have a problem with you. I don't think it is nice of people to only somewhat read a post and then post back all techy like they know something sending them on a wild goose chase for their answer which usually gets pricey completely being rude to someone trying to help. I know that covers the two threads in one statement but you did start it here. I'd have to ask........do you have a problem with me giving correct answers???? Cause I think we got some bruised ego here. It walks like a duck and quacks like a duck.......I call it a DUCK!

My apology again Rok!!!!
Hey tbh i read her response and was like.. what in tarnation? Those are great points u make on the possible brokeen wire. Maybe in the harness or the like. I initially thought grounding issue as well so i scraped my grounds as my first go and replaced the battery cables as they had some corrosion inside the wire. Thanks for your input. Ill get back after i reinstall the injectors and see where were at. Thanks again, and its no problem. Some folks just beef.
 

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Hey tbh i read her response and was like.. what in tarnation?
Rok, this was not good happening in your thread but please do not disregard her input. I have not been with the site long but have found several of her posts and she is usually dead on! When that happened in the other thread I was wondering if I had done something to upset her. It was just a couple threads before that in one she followed me saying "Exactly what T said!!" basically, not like I went and copied it. In another thread she helped someone and gave a description of shifting across Kawi's neutral finder calling it the great divide. It really made me laugh as I remembered then the first time I rode my V2K and shifted to second. Up til then I had only rode up to 1400cc say. I thought something broke and fell out the back never dealing with a trans so big. I said "great description lol" but hoped she did not take it towards her gender or something like I was a smart azz, thinking back now. She could just be dealing with something traumatic in her life. We never know.

Point being up until only these two posts mentioned, I have always seen her display herself as what I'd consider a mechanic would and talk like. I am adding this because I do not want you, or future readers, to look at her input tied to a bad tussle from one thread and making decisions from it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Rok, this was not good happening in your thread but please do not disregard her input. I have not been with the site long but have found several of her posts and she is usually dead on! When that happened in the other thread I was wondering if I had done something to upset her. It was just a couple threads before that in one she followed me saying "Exactly what T said!!" basically, not like I went and copied it. In another thread she helped someone and gave a description of shifting across Kawi's neutral finder calling it the great divide. It really made me laugh as I remembered then the first time I rode my V2K and shifted to second. Up til then I had only rode up to 1400cc say. I thought something broke and fell out the back never dealing with a trans so big. I said "great description lol" but hoped she did not take it towards her gender or something like I was a smart azz, IDK. She could just be dealing with something traumatic in her life. We never know.

Point being up until only these two posts mentioned, I have always seen her display herself as what I'd consider a mechanic would and talk like. I am adding this because I do not want you, or future readers, to look at her input tied to a bad tussle from one thread and making decisions from it.


Yea things happen beyond what we can see on the internet. Bad days, what have you. It comes down to it, it doesnt throw codes and its not carbed so theres nothing there i can take and run with.
 

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No, the "air valve" lol is just that and basically monitoring throttle position is its most advanced job. That sensor just tells the ECU what % the throttle is at so it can time out how long the injectors need to stay open for. That is why I suggested the connections, etc above. After that all I see is the ECU is not functioning properly. I don't know if a failing component can check itself or not to display a code but, then the possibility would exist that the checking section could be failing affecting the rest. Kind of kills if it can check itself, lol.

Also just for future note, it really is not hard to clean the injectors yourself. Then you could have inspected the seats for oxidization messing with grounding too. Anyways, there is a bunch of videos on youtube on how to do them. It really is very simple. Much less work than cleaning carbs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
No, the "air valve" lol is just that and basically monitoring throttle position is its most advanced job. That sensor just tells the ECU what % the throttle is at so it can time out how long the injectors need to stay open for. That is why I suggested the connections, etc above. After that all I see is the ECU is not functioning properly. I don't know if a failing component can check itself or not to display a code but, then the possibility would exist that the checking section could be failing affecting the rest. Kind of kills if it can check itself, lol.

Also just for future note, it really is not hard to clean the injectors yourself. Then you could have inspected the seats for oxidization messing with grounding too. Anyways, there is a bunch of videos on youtube on how to do them. It really is very simple. Much less work than cleaning carbs.
Yea i have them on a little injector cleaner pulser dude. Stick em in plug em in hit the button and sends fluid thru them while they sit. They've been sitting in an ultrasonic bath for a few hours so im monitoring the spray patterns atm.
 

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Yea i have them on a little injector cleaner pulser dude. Stick em in plug em in hit the button and sends fluid thru them while they sit. They've been sitting in an ultrasonic bath for a few hours so im monitoring the spray patterns atm.
Awesome, you are right on it. I was thinking a can of carb cleaner, small hose, and a battery.. And I was feeling bad I forgot to mention that would test them too, lol.
 

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Awesome, you are right on it. I was thinking a can of carb cleaner, small hose, and a battery.. And I was feeling bad I forgot to mention that would test them too, lol.
Be aware that curtain cleaning agents will damage parts being cleaned. Battery and carb cleaner? Hope I'm not around when it explodes.
 

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Be aware that curtain cleaning agents will damage parts being cleaned. Battery and carb cleaner? Hope I'm not around when it explodes.
Thank you for your point towards safety but, you would have been better served to research my suggestion to find out IF it actually had any validity first.

Using the Firefox browser doing a search on YouTube for "clean motorcycle injectors" the VERY first result is the link below from a business servicing ATV and Motorcycles. Take note of the "battery" in use and the "cleaner" he is using, which is contact cleaner if anyone misses him saying it.

The second video listed I skipped only because he is using the same bought tool. I did not find this "tool" when I first learned how to do this. In third video the person found a kit for doing it, which I assume was much cheaper than the tool in the first video. Note here that the "kit" does not come with a cleaner so, take note of what he is using, as in this video the cans are clearly seen.

For the final presentation of facts I will use the fourth video down in that one search. The first video had 190K views and the next less but this fourth one has 3.8 million views. This guy is the real DIYer as he comes up with one creative way for doing it above what I had mentioned with the piece of hose initially. Here he is doing automobile injectors but, as one can clearly see the only thing changed between all them is how much they SPENT to do the job! And again note what he is using for a "cleaner"!

If one researches this they will find videos right down to using a "piece of hose" to do it ;). Guess I will keep waiting to blow up and clean my injectors for change on the dollar over the prices mentioned in the one video. With shop costs for doing it I can only reference that video as I do my own work on my motorcycles :cool: Hope it helps everyone!
 

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Good videos on the process. Might be a way to do it. My concern is an extremely flammable fluid being shot out into an open area with possible ignition sources. I use brake cleaner a lot, but always away from ignition sources. For using carb cleaner, care still needs to be used around rubber and plastic parts. There's cleaner made for injector cleaner that is manufactured to be safe. One quote of many from fuel injector sites. I would rather be proactive rather than risk possible damages. It's great to suggest methods of maintenance, I always try to remember that some folks don't always thing safety and I try to remind them.

249855
 

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Good videos on the process. Might be a way to do it. My concern is an extremely flammable fluid being shot out into an open area with possible ignition sources. I use brake cleaner a lot, but always away from ignition sources. For using carb cleaner, care still needs to be used around rubber and plastic parts. There's cleaner made for injector cleaner that is manufactured to be safe. One quote of many from fuel injector sites. I would rather be proactive rather than risk possible damages. It's great to suggest methods of maintenance, I always try to remember that some folks don't always thing safety and I try to remind them.

View attachment 249855
Ok, I see now where you are going with it. I just use a general term of carb cleaner. Before injectors there was only carbs, lol. Yes when I am doing it most the good "carb" cleaner I use says it is for carbs/injectors. Point is the same materials that were manufactured to deal with gasoline on a carb, is still the same that goes into the parts and seals for the injectors. It is not like we have to run ethanol gas in carbs and clear gas in injectors only. Either will run in either so why wouldn't a product only made to clean carbs, that may already be sitting on one's garage shelf, be safe for injector parts. Maybe if someone had some 30 year old can of it made with some chemical later found bad is the only thing I see really. If one bought it say within 5 years after injectors came out I'd think they are pretty safe to use that old can up and if still concerned after, do it with the "injector" cleaner using the old to knock off the "high spots" so to say.

With the rest on safety I guess I expect some "common sense" to be involved for possible ignition sources, damaging finishes, etc. Kind of like "don't eat the paint chips!" lol

Edit: forget my age, we are in the 2020s so, 40 years old on the bad can of "carb" cleaner.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Update.

Replaced fuel pump again. Reinstalled injectors, new airbox as old one infound a crack, symptoms are the same. Starts and runs good, then just shuts off after a period unspecified time. Fan turns on and off, no error codes. Just quits like u shut it off. Vid included showing it happen. Was tapping the tank for memes.
 
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