With the DFI relay plugged in, meter negative lead connected to battery negative, switch on, check the voltage of the white w/red wire at the plug connecting to the relay. Not the fused lead but the one leaving the relay. Then check the voltage of the white wire going into the 15 amp fuse. Both of the measurements should be the same as battery voltage.
No actually tank can be disconnected for the previous test. From the voltage drop you are seeing, either there is a very bad connection at the relay, or the internal contacts are bad, which is what I suspect. I would replace the relay. Must have full voltage at fuel pump.
That is with the new OEM Kawi relay.
I'm going out and start checking all wire connections.
I did use electronic cleaner on some connectors and air compressor to blow them out as there is a lot of dust due to some dirt road riding in the past.
Cleaned up what I could reach and find. Checked the operation of the relay and it checks out.
Still bothers me that the headlight comes on when the key is turned instead of after the starter has been engaged as something has to control that action. The headlight relay is built into the junction box so I can't figure out how to check that out or even if it can draw enough voltage to affect the DFI relay action.
Something has to be bleeding off the voltage from the relay?
Junction box checks out okay.
I have a question about the two wires that supply power to the connector on the tank for the fuel pump.
Shouldn't one have power and the other be a ground? I measure about 7volts on one and about 5 on the other when grounding to the battery. (unplugged from the tank connector.)
The white w/red should have battery voltage on it with the switch on. It comes directly from the DFI relay. The black w/yellow, (ground), goes to the igniter. It times out when the switch is turned on and remains open until the bike starts. This is why you only hear the pump run for a few seconds when you first turn the ignition switch on.
Took the bike to an independent shop along with my notes on diagnosing done here.
He texted me today that he believes it's the ECU. His scanner should communicate with it and will not.
Is a problem ECU very common on these bikes?
A new ECU is around $900 and eBay has them priced all over the place.
Still working on this bike. Installed used ECU from eBay and now have spark but still having fuel problems. We were digging around to day and found the orange 'joint connector' and it looks like a terminal may have problems.
I believe this thing is just to join grounds?
What would cause the burn marks and how to diagnose?
It has an orange cap on the plug with terminals that go into it. It's located in front of the ECU towards the left side of the bike and it was covered with brittle electrical tape. As near as we can figure out reading the schematic. it's a "joint connector"?
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