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Showing Visitor Messages 1 to 10 of 10
  1. scully
    11-27-2017 01:05 PM - permalink
    scully
    Hello Bill - I pulled the tensioner and it seems to be ok, the sound seems to be coming from the flywheel area - could the primary chain be rubbing against something, or just not tight enough?
  2. scully
    11-26-2017 09:29 AM - permalink
    scully
    Good morning Bill! I wanted to ask you directly as you've so much experience with these 500's. Is this also exhaust rattle? Others are saying cam chain but I'll differ to your wisdom

  3. Bokobob
    01-16-2016 03:53 PM - permalink
    Bokobob
    Bill, thank you much for your comments about Hidalgo. Neat that you have only had one bike while I have had 21, and many of them, I admit, should not have been bought...I have 4 at this time. I need to get the valve checked/adjusted...I got a quote yesterday at a shop for 1.2 hours and compared it to the tutorial on this forum and that sounds very ambitious to me. It is very kind of you to fill me in on your experience with this bike.
  4. GeorgiaRider
    10-10-2015 06:15 AM - permalink
    GeorgiaRider
    Hey Biker Bill,

    Hope all is well with your Vulcan 500. Just a quick question for you. My battery is 7 years old and still charges fine. This week I took the bike out for a ride (2006 model at 40K miles) and after I gassed up and tried to start it it gave this buzzing sound, kind of like how cars do when the starter is shot. Does that sound like what I have? When I got the bike home the battery charged right up as normal, but still the clicking sound. I have my local shop guy picking it up Monday to check it out. Alternator maybe? I thought I would go ahead and get a new battery regardless since it's had a good life already.

    Thanks.

    GeorgiaRider (David)
  5. freedombird777
    08-19-2013 12:40 PM - permalink
    freedombird777
    Finally changing steering head bearings. What did you use/where did you get puller to remove steering stem bearing. I'm heading to auto zone to see if they got a loner tool to get er done
  6. bill_53
    06-15-2012 05:48 PM - permalink
    bill_53
    Hey Bill, nice ride I do like the dash board very clever, I believe we we have spoke on FB.
  7. bikerbill
    05-11-2012 07:23 PM - permalink
    bikerbill
    redfish,

    The boots are a tight fit by design so a bit of tubbing/pulling is in order to get them to fit. Try seating a rack of four carbs onto an engine. That can get ugly if you let it.

    The boots on the airbox side are quite flexible in the horizontal direction so the in/out motion won't unseat them during normal use. Think sideways 'U'. There is a retaining ring around a flange on the airbox side so there's no chance they'll come loose from the box. The detachment was due to the carbs being forced back in a 'not straight' alignment. Don't be afraid to tug on them.

    Using grease to help the boots back on wouldn't be ill-advised. But whatever you do DON'T glue them on! (ask me how I know this ) Rubbing alcohol makes a good short-term lubricant also. Needle-noses pliers are a good friend to have too.

    Hope this helps.
  8. redfish
    05-11-2012 06:16 PM - permalink
    redfish
    Bill,
    I read gabo234's problem with seating the carburetor boots. I had my carbs off for cleaning & adjustment and had no trouble at all getting the boots to seat. In fact, it was a tight fit to even get the carbs to slide back in. However, when the engine backfired thru the carbs the other day and blew the boots off, I had to tug & pull and wrestle the airbox side boots out enough to seat. And then just barely. Is it possible the backfire blew them back and they somehow came unattached from the airbox holes and were shifted back further away from the carbs? And could this also be gabo234's problem too?

    I don't know how they seat around the airbox holes, don't remember how they appeared before the backfire, but something isn't right and has changed.

    What do you think?
  9. bikerbill
    03-14-2011 12:02 AM - permalink
    bikerbill
    racerX,

    If your wife's bike has at about 10k miles or more on it the sound is probably the exhaust pipe. The test I do is to use a padded screwdriver (or prybar) and gently pry against the exhaust pipe while it is making the noise. If the sound changes it's the pipe.

    The only place to get a replacement pipe is from Kawasaki. I use RonAyers.com as they are reasonably priced and ship fast.

    For the right side you will need one 18049-1752 pipe and two 11060-1764 crush gasket. (You'll have to remove both pipes) You can probably get by with reusing the gaskets in the mufflers and the crosspipe but if you want to replace them also use two 11060-1759 and one 11009-1865.
  10. racerX
    03-13-2011 10:05 PM - permalink
    racerX
    Hello Bikerbill. How did you know when your inner exhaust pipe was broken? My wifes 500 is making a pinging noise on the right side that sounds like it could be the pipe rattle. Also where might one find a new pipe at a goo price.
    Thanks

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04-22-2018
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01-22-2018
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02-19-2017
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  Quotes

05-15-2019
10:01 AM - ctag quoted bikerbill in post Trying to bring a Vulcan 500 back to life
...d got posted! Hi Bikerbill, thank you for the s...
05-08-2019
02:33 PM - bikerbill quoted fastpakr in post Air Filter Question
the K&N version KA-5096 for $...
04-11-2019
10:39 PM - bikerbill quoted MARKOEN500 in post Rejetting carburetor now sputtering
Hope you don't mind me asking q...
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02-25-2019
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bikerbill, thanks for your i...
02-15-2019
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Here goes... Anything ...
01-27-2019
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Ordered the Dynojet, Pod filte...
01-26-2019
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Actually Dynojet doesn't make ...
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Understand one Kit will includ...
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Stage 3 is what you're looking...
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12-28-2018
05:24 PM - Robrivard quoted bikerbill in post Alternator cover leak
Welcome Robrivard. To addre...
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...al with. Welcome Robrivard. To address your ...
12-16-2018
04:10 PM - Venom831 quoted bikerbill in post Highest Miles on Vulcan 500
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12-12-2018
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  Garage

    1997 Kawasaki Vulcan 500C2
    Hidalgo
    1998 Kawasaki EN500C
    Son of Hidalgo

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