Heated Riding Gloves - Kawasaki Vulcan Forum : Vulcan Forums
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-30-2017, 01:47 AM Thread Starter
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Heated Riding Gloves

I'm not looking to ride in any colder than the mid 40's F. And at that point the only thing I can't keep warm is my hands, even with a good pair of winter riding gloves. So I'm looking for advice...

Battery powered or wired to the bike?
How much for decent quality heated gloves?
Any brands stick out as good or bad?
Do they heat the hands and fingers?

Thanks
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-30-2017, 08:29 AM
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Search is your friend:

Regular Riding Gloves:
https://www.vulcanforums.com/forums/1...ng-gloves.html

Info. on Heated Gloves:
https://www.vulcanforums.com/forums/1...ed-gloves.html

How to Wire them Up:
https://www.vulcanforums.com/forums/7...ed-gloves.html

I have First Gear's heated gloves, and they work great down to 25 or so, which is the coldest I've ridden with them on. The heat the fingers and back of palm area, you're looking at $200 and up for good ones IMO, wire to the bike, definitely. Gerbings and First Gear stick out as good (I've heard of the first, own the second).

-John
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2005 VN800B Bobber (Blue Collar Bobbers kits)
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-30-2017, 09:27 PM
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Gerbings quality has gone downhill since the family sold the business. I would not buy them anymore. The son of the previous owner, Gordon Gerbing, has started his own brand, Gordon's Heated Clothing. I can't speak first hand about them, but they get very good reviews. They also get a lot of $$ for them!

First Gear makes excellent heated gear. I have a full setup. I got a pants and jacket liner with my Motoport suit (the liners are branded differently, but they are First Gear), I have FG gloves and Gerbing heated insoles. I have ridden at 10 F and my hands stayed warm with wind deflectors in front of the grips.

FG also has a wireless remote control that can be handy, too, and works very well. It cost a bit more than the wired control, but you can use hook and loop to mount it in a convenient spot without having wires that get in your way. Uses a couple of AA (or AAA?) batteries that last for a long time. With a Y-harness running up the sleeves of your jack and down and out the back to the battery connection, it is a lot neater.

I, too, recommend wiring to the battery.
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-02-2017, 12:59 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for your replies.

Looks like I could buy the gloves, heat-troller and a Y-harness to use them on the bike. And I have some 3 cell Lipo's I could wire up to use the gloves off the bike.
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-02-2017, 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by D-Dub View Post
Thanks for your replies.

Looks like I could buy the gloves, heat-troller and a Y-harness to use them on the bike. And I have some 3 cell Lipo's I could wire up to use the gloves off the bike.
Yup, that's the setup I have (minus the LiPo batteries). Works well. I ran my wires that go to the gloves through my jacket for a cleaner look and to keep them out of my way while riding. They're *just* long enough.

-John
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-02-2017, 03:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Dub View Post
Thanks for your replies.

Looks like I could buy the gloves, heat-troller and a Y-harness to use them on the bike. And I have some 3 cell Lipo's I could wire up to use the gloves off the bike.
The LIPOs are ok if they output 12V or you power the gloves without the controller. Using a voltage too much different from 12V (I think most LIPOs are 7.5V) could damage the controller, or the controller just might not work, depending on how it is designed. I suspect most controllers can handle a lower voltage, but I'm not sure. You may want to contact whichever manufacturers controller you get to ask about that.

If you bypass the controller, you can use any voltage from about 14.5V down to probably 5V - 7V. The problem with the higher voltages is that the gloves can get very hot, so be sure you either need an on/off switch, or a setup you can plug and unplug easily. Even at 10 F, I only ran my gloves somewhere between 1/3 and 1/2 power. At 3/4 power, the gloves got so hot my hands were stinging.

Installed:
RAM mount for TomTom Rider 400 (with anti theft module)
6000k LED Headlight & Spots; Kisan Headlight Modulator (works with LEDs),
__Brake Light Modulator, LED License Plate Holder
Longer Kickstand
Dobeck EJK 3.0
Lucky Mirror Extenders
Misc. RAM Mounts for Cup Holder, SPOT, Phone, etc.
Chuckster BAK, Trailer Hitch and Cooler Rack
Wiring for Trailer
Ray's Throttle Mod
Things to do:
Drilling Baffle Plates (Maybe)
Paint HF Tag Along Trailer to Match Bike

LET'S RIDE
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-02-2017, 03:53 PM
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What about heated grips ?
Then gloves don't matter.
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-02-2017, 09:45 PM
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What about heated grips ?
Then gloves don't matter.
I did some research into them - not so great if you have multiple bikes or don't have hippo hands. The grips heat the inside of your hands, but not the outside. The FG gloves I have heat the outside of the hand, which is greatly effective.

-John

2016 Vaquero (mostly stock)
2005 VN800B Bobber (Blue Collar Bobbers kits)
1979 KZ650SR
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-02-2017, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Sabre-t View Post
Even at 10 F, I only ran my gloves somewhere between 1/3 and 1/2 power. At 3/4 power, the gloves got so hot my hands were stinging.
Wow, with my FG gloves, at 25-35 degrees, I was running 1/2-3/4 easily, sometimes full power (cross winds) to keep my hands warm. Then again, as much as I like cold weather, my hands are the first thing to get cold. (I still wear a half helmet in the winter, with a mesh jacket w/liner and a sweatshirt, jeans, and boots.

Honestly, I'm thinking about getting heated socks this winter, and not riding below 32 degrees. While I'd love a full heated setup, it's just not in the finances right now.

-John

2016 Vaquero (mostly stock)
2005 VN800B Bobber (Blue Collar Bobbers kits)
1979 KZ650SR
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-03-2017, 10:37 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sabre-t View Post
The LIPOs are ok if they output 12V or you power the gloves without the controller. Using a voltage too much different from 12V (I think most LIPOs are 7.5V) could damage the controller, or the controller just might not work, depending on how it is designed. I suspect most controllers can handle a lower voltage, but I'm not sure. You may want to contact whichever manufacturers controller you get to ask about that.

If you bypass the controller, you can use any voltage from about 14.5V down to probably 5V - 7V. The problem with the higher voltages is that the gloves can get very hot, so be sure you either need an on/off switch, or a setup you can plug and unplug easily. Even at 10 F, I only ran my gloves somewhere between 1/3 and 1/2 power. At 3/4 power, the gloves got so hot my hands were stinging.
I just need to check in to a low voltage cutoff for the batteries, to keep things safe.
Here's a basic Lipo voltage spread.

Lipo's are rated at 3.7v per cell. A 3-cell is known as 11.1v
Fully charged = 4.2v per cell or 12.6v for a 3-cell.
Discharge = 3.0v - 3.3v per cell or 9.0v - 9.9v for a 3-cell.
The discharge voltage varies for a few reasons, mostly due to discharge rates. I like using 3.3v as a minimum.

I have a few quadcopters and all the support equipment (batteries, chargers, dischargers, low voltage alarms) otherwise I'd never consider doing this.
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