T-tap connectors...can they be trusted? - Page 2 - Kawasaki Vulcan Forum : Vulcan Forums
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by RastaPasta View Post
I did end up tossing the supplied connectors in the trash and soldered/shrikwrapped instead. It was my first solder job, so it's a bit ugly but it's solid (bigger da gob the better da job!).
The key is whether or not the solder wetted and flowed into the joint. Without seeing the joints of topic it's hard to say for sure but I've seen some pretty impressive solder gobs that were not sound electrically-speaking (aka cold joints).
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whoaru99 View Post
The key is whether or not the solder wetted and flowed into the joint. Without seeing the joints of topic it's hard to say for sure but I've seen some pretty impressive solder gobs that were not sound electrically-speaking (aka cold joints).
Yeah, the "if a little is good, a lot must be better" logic can produce some really bad results.

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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 09:40 AM
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You can actually see the permeation of the solder, through the strands of the wire. A fully heated iron(or gun), and you can melt the solder through the splice. If you saw something like this when you were soldering, you're probably okay.
If you are worried about the result, you can always redo it. Resin core electrical solder (small gauge) would work well for this. Nice thing about soldering - "Practice makes Perfect"!
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