VN900 Diode mod: Your all LED turn/Indicator solution - Kawasaki Vulcan Forum : Vulcan Forums
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post #1 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-23-2015, 08:26 PM Thread Starter
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VN900 Diode mod: Your all LED turn signal / Indicator solution

If you're looking to switch over to all LED turn signals, Doing this mod will correct the feedback issue that causes your turn signal indicator to stop working, and remedy All 4 turn signals coming on together. You will still need to wire in resistors(waste of power/time/$ IMO) or replace the stock thermal flasher with a electronic flasher unit($9 on ebay/Plug and Play), to correct "No Flash" and blink rate...

Hey guys, I searched the forums for info on this mod before I took the project on for myself. What I found is vague information, generic pictographs and a lot of you still asking questions. The clearest instruction I found, recommended cutting up the factory harness to splice into the turn leads(green and grey) and adding a ground to the frame. While this will work, the diode kits are fragile, use 22 gauge wire(very thin with rigid wire diodes attached), requires you to add an unsightly and exposed ground, and splicing into a harness near its connection point, is never a good idea.
My recommendation: Keep the install clean and weather tight, and inside the instrument cluster...

Here's how:
Step 1 Remove the single screw holding the speedometer bezel in place.
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Step 2 Lift the tail end of the bezel upwards to clear the trim ring of the speedo and rock it left and right while holding the front of the bezel and pulling it forward until it slides off of the two steel guides.

Step 3 Pull down the rubber boot at the front underside of the speedo cluster and disconnect the harness by pushing in the button facing the front of the bike and gently wiggle side to side while pulling down.

Step 4 Lift the tail end of the speedo above the standoff and rock forward, left and right as you did with the bezel.
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Ok, you have done half of the physical work(reassembly comes later). Now take the speedo cluster into the comfort of your home or workshop, to a well lit work area. Grab a coffee, beer or whatever and get comfortable...

Step 5 Put newspapers or a towel down, and set the cluster face down on top of it. Carefully press the rubber bushing through the hole at the bottom of the case, it is holding the two half's together and will prevent separation if left in place. Next, using a Phillips screwdriver, remove the 5 outside perimeter screws.

Step 6 Once the screws are out, carefully flip the speedo over and separate the speedo face from the case body. Locate the 8 wire harness below the speedometer, leading from the small indicator board, to the header on the speedo circuit board.
Using your fingers or a small flat blade screwdriver, gently pry the header free and then remove the single Phillips head screw holding the indicator board in place.
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Remove the indicator board from the casing, and set the casing safely aside.
With the indicator board removed, our job just got easier!
We now have all the room we could ask for to install the diode kit, in the comfort of your work space, away from the bike!
*An EASY winter project.*

Here is a picture that shows what all the wires are for, but the only ones we will be concerned with are numbers 2(GROUND),5(RT SIG +),and 6(LT SIG+)
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Step 7 Carefully count over from left to right, to wires 5 and 6, cut them(in half) halfway between the indicator board and the header for the speedo board.
Strip no more than 1/8 inch of insulation away from both sides of wires 5 and 6

Step 8 Next, use a razor blade and remove a 1/8 inch of insulation from around wire number 2 nearer the indicator board side. Without cutting through the wire!!!

Step 9 Using a good soldering kit, and your favorite solder(I like 60/40 @ 240C degrees ) attach the two positive leads of the diode kit(mine was CustomDynamics Red) to the header(speedo) side of wires 5 and 6. It does not matter what wire you solder to which lead, just solder one to each of them. Don't forget to put the heat shrink on the wires before you solder them!!

Step 10 The single lead on the tail end of the diode kit(mine was White) gets soldered to wire number 6 on the indicator board side. Again, Don't forget the heat shrink!!

Step 11 Your last connection! Wire number 5 of the indicator board needs to be wrapped around the exposed copper of wire number 2 and solder them together. There is no need for heat shrink or insulation on this connection as it is a ground inside a closed case, but some of you may prefer to do so just for good measure.

All board connections completed.
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Step 12 Re-install the indicator board into the speedo casing and replace the single Phillips screw that secures it. Reconnect the header to the speedo board and fan the wires to the right so that they neatly rest under the speedometer face. There is plenty of room to tuck the diode kit wires under the indicator board and keep them out of the way.

Here, I would have shown a completed picture, but I reached the maximum number of pics allowed. Besides, if you followed along, you already know what it looks like!

The final step is to put the speedo back together by replacing the 5 screws on the back, replacing the rubber bushing in the bottom hole of the case, and putting everything back on the bike.

Side-note: It does not matter if you use LED's or standard bulbs for your turn signals after this mod is completed. The indicator lamp will continue to function as it was always intended. Doing this mod will allow you to swap out the clusters standard indicator bulb for LED if you choose to do so, as the polarity no longer reverses when Left or Right turn signals are activated.

Enjoy your new mod!
2lucky
darkkon and Splat like this.

Last edited by 2lucky; 04-29-2015 at 12:52 PM. Reason: New info, Connection correction, Pic update. Thanks Frizzman
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post #2 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-23-2015, 08:58 PM
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sub'd

I tried doing this and it never worked, I'll read later

2011 Custom SE
current mods:
BK ISO grips w/TB
BK ISO Dually pegs
blacked-out signal/tail housings
clear lenses w/LED lights
fully debaffled exhaust
Batwing(MS) w/ 9" spoiler shield
Saddleman solo
hard bags (Mutazu MU)
230 rear tire, 90/90 front
Baron's rear pulley
future mods:
misc other things that cost money
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post #3 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-23-2015, 09:22 PM Thread Starter
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@Frizzman -Precisely my reason for the post, hope it helps.
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post #4 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-25-2015, 05:44 PM
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sooo, I finished this today. it "works" but not really. my previous wiring was from someone else's post and had the black wire cut and 5&6.

followed your post and connected everything up and found my shrink tube kit with small pieces. #5 to #4 soldered. #5&6 from speedo to diode, diode to #6. everything else still works as it always has.

I was happy when I backed the bike down and flipped the turn, bingo, it blinked. moved the bike back up (parking lot on a hill) and wasn't working. meh, back the bike to level and still not working. put the bike in neutral, bingo, blinks again.

so it seems something still is not grounded correctly to allow the current without being in neutral

edit: now, not that I pay attention to it anyway as I can see it clearly being LEDs and I've developed an OCD habit of hitting the cancel button. But if I ever feel like getting it inspected again (not that anyone checks here) I wouldn't mind it working properly. I'll stay tuned if anyone else does it this way.

2011 Custom SE
current mods:
BK ISO grips w/TB
BK ISO Dually pegs
blacked-out signal/tail housings
clear lenses w/LED lights
fully debaffled exhaust
Batwing(MS) w/ 9" spoiler shield
Saddleman solo
hard bags (Mutazu MU)
230 rear tire, 90/90 front
Baron's rear pulley
future mods:
misc other things that cost money
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Last edited by frizzman; 04-25-2015 at 05:47 PM. Reason: info
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post #5 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-25-2015, 11:03 PM Thread Starter
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@Frizzman Err on my part. I feel the stare of the Evil monkey upon me. When I diagnosed the circuit, it was by meter, a difficult thing to do while riding. Due to weather, I had not test driven the bike, but I verified your findings today. The Neutral ground is indeed switched with the circuit. In picture 4, I identified the indicator boards ground as wire #2, however, I used the Neutrals ground to simplify connections. My apologies to you and the community. The post has been updated and edited with the correct information and picture. Thank you for your feedback.

Last edited by 2lucky; 04-25-2015 at 11:13 PM.
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post #6 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-27-2015, 06:38 PM
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werd! I'll tackle this next time it's not gonna rain :/

looks easy enough to swap 5+4 to 5+2 and wrap 4 up

2011 Custom SE
current mods:
BK ISO grips w/TB
BK ISO Dually pegs
blacked-out signal/tail housings
clear lenses w/LED lights
fully debaffled exhaust
Batwing(MS) w/ 9" spoiler shield
Saddleman solo
hard bags (Mutazu MU)
230 rear tire, 90/90 front
Baron's rear pulley
future mods:
misc other things that cost money
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post #7 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-28-2015, 07:41 PM
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turns out today was a good day, got it done:

http://s806.photobucket.com/user/joh...0nx15.mp4.html

2011 Custom SE
current mods:
BK ISO grips w/TB
BK ISO Dually pegs
blacked-out signal/tail housings
clear lenses w/LED lights
fully debaffled exhaust
Batwing(MS) w/ 9" spoiler shield
Saddleman solo
hard bags (Mutazu MU)
230 rear tire, 90/90 front
Baron's rear pulley
future mods:
misc other things that cost money
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post #8 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-30-2015, 04:52 PM
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This is what I have given up on trying to figure out months ago.
Thank you and your grey matter 2lucky!
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post #9 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-31-2015, 10:35 AM
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I just did this mod yesterday. It was a breeze thanks to 2lucky's instructions. I only did a couple of things differently:

1) I didn't remove the rubber bushing in step 5. Instead, I removed the screws first and then gently lifted the cover and rotated the top half away from the speedo face. The rubber bushing allows for enough play to make it easy to keep it attached, but still allows you to lift the cover and rotate it out of the way.

2) Step 11, I wrapped the solder connection in black electrical tape. I know it wasn't needed but I did that anyways because I don't like having exposed solder connections.

One other note is that I did not use the shrink tube that was supplied with the Custom Dynamics diode kit. It is way too big (diameter) and instead used some 1/8 inch diameter shrink tube.

2013 Vulcan 900 Classic - Pearl Flat Stardust White/Flat Ebony
Highway Hawk Extreme Fat Bar
Memphis Shades Alley Cat windshield
Kuryakyn Black ISO Grips w/ Throttle Boss
FIAMM Freeway Blaster High & Low Tone Horns (w/relay)
Cobra Fi2000 PowerPro Tuner
Cobra PowerFlo Air Intake
Roadburner 3" Drag Pro, Black Ceramic exhaust
Smartpartz Hard Kore Baffles
GiPro Digital Gear Indicator
Dynamic Ringz LED Driving Lights / Turn Signals
Dynamic Clusters2 LED Turn / Running / Brake Signals

Last edited by AZGeek; 05-31-2015 at 10:38 AM.
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post #10 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-02-2015, 05:52 PM Thread Starter
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@AZ
Thanks for the compliment!
In Step 11, your use of wrapped electrical tape is keeping me up at night though! Lol.

For anyone looking to insulate the ground connection in this step, and a better nights sleep, locate this tab on the header:
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Gently lift it up with your nail or a small screwdriver, this will allow you to release the wire from the header. Carefully pull the wire out and you will be able to slide heatshrink over the connector, down over your solder joint. Simple, clean and it wont come apart.
Slide the wire back into the header til you hear it click(lock) back into the tab and your ready for reassembly in Step 12.
I should have suggested it was done this way from the beginning. I said there would guys like AZ to catch me slacking!
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