Finally did my valves! - Kawasaki Vulcan Forum : Vulcan Forums
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-24-2017, 03:12 AM Thread Starter
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Finally did my valves!

Hello all. It has been a while!

So, I finally got around to checking the valve clearance on my bike. I printed out (and read!) the guide I found online, but for the most part just kind of winged it, at least up until the part where I was actually checking the valve clearance. It's pretty straight forward to make enough space to get the valve covers out and do the work, however, I would like to point out a couple things, and ask a few questions.

Firstly, the guide (link at the end of this post) states the specified clearance for the exhaust valves is .25-.30mm, however the valve clearance adjustment chart attached to the PDF states the specified clearance as .20-.25mm. I double checked against my totally-legally-purchased factory service manual, and it specified the same .20-.25mm. In the end I had .25 clearance, a .30 feeler would not fit, so I'm in the clear regardless, however I am not entirely sure what the correct clearance should be. Is .25-.30mm a more recent revision?

Secondly, I would like to point out that the shim kit I purchased from Amazon was the incorrect one, despite the fact that Amazon listed it as correct. I took my measurements, figured out which shims I needed and went to a local Japanese motorcycle repair shop, and luckily they happened to have exactly what I needed to make all the valves in spec with a little bit of swapping from valve to valve, but it was still pretty inconvenient. I'm sure there are many kits available, but the Hot Cams kit HCSHIM02 is NOT the kit you want, as the diameter of the shims is too small. Also, I would like to note that figuring out which shim you need is not rocket science, like most of my research led me to believe: if the specified clearance is .25mm but the valve clearance is only .15mm and the shim is a 2.55mm, then you need a 2.45mm shim. The chart makes things pretty simple, but you don't need to overthink it. Double check your clearance after you replace the shim.

Lastly, I just want to point out that if you have access to some basic tools and a clean, dry place to do the work, do it yourself! Assuming the shim kit I got was the right size and would have worked, I spent about $175 CAD on a Proto feeler gauge, shim kit, and fresh coolant. Nobody will take as much care to do it right like you will. I think I read in the guide something like this "If you are even thinking about doing your valve shims yourself, you are fully capable of doing it properly."

Now for questions: Is there a torque setting for the timing inspection cover or is it just assumed that you probably won't over tighten it with a screw driver? Also, in my repair manual it says to replace the coolant you just fill it up as much as you can via the cap under the speedo, fill the overflow reservoir to the F marking and run it till the fan kicks on, then re-check the reservoir level. Is there more involved? I don't think my fan has kicked on once since I did the service (or at least I didn't notice), I don't know if that's a good thing or a bad thing...

Anyhow, hopefully I'm not re-beating a dead horse with this post, just figured I would share my experience. I have put about 100KM on the bike since doing the service, and I feel much better knowing I'm not going to melt the cylinder heads.

Cheers!

Link: http://www.chicago106miles.com/Zen/8...djustments.pdf

Never argue with a fool: onlookers may not be able to tell the difference.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-24-2017, 07:05 AM
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Kawasaki updated the clearance specs to .25 to .30 on exhaust.
Old service manuals do not reflect this.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-24-2017, 11:31 AM Thread Starter
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Well that's good to know. The .25 feeler went in real easy, but the .30 wouldn't fit at all after replacing/moving the shims around, so I am confident that they're pretty well adjusted.

Never argue with a fool: onlookers may not be able to tell the difference.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-12-2017, 11:29 AM
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Hi Beans, did you - by any chance - measure the correct diameter of the shims? I got a box of 'em from Ebay, and I would like to know if they are the right size, before I start dismantling ...
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-12-2017, 11:46 AM
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What diameter shims do not fit?
The correct size is 9,48 millimeters. I used HotCams from ebay, sold separately. The whole valve adjustment procedure costs were about 20 Eur for me.
First, I measured everything and ordered just what I needed.

EDIT
It wold be good to recheck your gaps after driving some hundreds of miles.
If Your fan goes on after any actions You made, probably You still have an air in the system.

Last edited by tehnis; 09-12-2017 at 11:49 AM.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-12-2017, 12:01 PM
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Thanx Technis, I just checked! The ones I got from TongTong Trade Co. on Ebay are also 9,48 millimeters. (Box caters for thickness 1.20 until 4.00) .

I won't be taking anything from the cooling fluid, since I read on this forum of an experience where it is enough to loosen some mounts, without removing hoses or anything. So I'll do just that.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-12-2017, 12:25 PM
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The simplest way to drain the coolant is to disconnect a coolant pipe from the right side of the radiator. Sure, You can drain it all, by opening the bottom cap, but if it's good (not older that two years) and clean, you can reuse it. No need to drain fully and no need to replace.
https://youtu.be/_UwFDT86vb8?t=486

EDIT
Sorry for editing this post.

Last edited by tehnis; 09-12-2017 at 12:37 PM.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-12-2017, 04:02 PM
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Ага, на русском языке. Я понимаю. Еще раз спасибо!
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-13-2017, 12:37 AM
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Да, без проблем... и мне в личку скинь, если что Обращайся!
(You are welcome!)
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