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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-22-2017, 03:41 PM Thread Starter
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Idle idle idle

Ok so as u can see by my before and after photos I have done some mods to my bike obviously the stock petcock has a vacume but the sportster tank does not so when I switched it all out on my first ride I got tons of fuel in my air filter case so I took it apart to check the float needle even tho the guy I got the bike from just rebuilt them .... to my amaze he didn't lie and everything was brand new so put it all back together no more fuel in the air box ...... BUT now when I'm in neutral or engage the clutch my Rpm go wayyyyy up before you suggest idle screw done that no luck before u say fuel screw on the carb done that I'm sitting at about 1/2 screw out and still high as ale ... ive heard I have a vacume leak possibly or a timing issue but I don't know where to look because my carb boot into the intake is good so what could be my issue any help would be appreciated
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-22-2017, 07:08 PM Thread Starter
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20 views no help come on gentlemen
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-22-2017, 07:39 PM
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You didn't mention anything about the choke. What condition is it in?

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-22-2017, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
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My fault forgot to mention choke is good and I'm I never use it anyway to warm up just the grips which also brings me to another point when I start it up runs good as soon as is warms up or I give it throttle it never idles low again and I checked the cables they do not stick at all
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-22-2017, 07:59 PM
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Could the butterfly plate in the carb be sticking? Take the air cleaner off and watch for smooth movement.

When you reassembled the carb, did you get the main needle diaphragm seated good? The VN750 uses the same carb as the VN800. I had rebuilt mine and the rubber diaphragm was a real PITA to seat properly. However, my bike would accelerate, but the RPM's would stop climbing after a certain point.

I would spray some WD40 around the boots and see if the RPM's fluctuate any. Those boots are VERY specific on how they are reassembled.

Not a lot to point to on carb'd bikes. I don't believe timing is involved here since timing can't be altered.

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-22-2017, 08:11 PM Thread Starter
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I'll try that tomorrow I'll get it warmed up and piss the neighborhood off without the air box and make sure it works as it should I'll report tomorrow
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-23-2017, 12:24 AM
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Was the port for the petcock vaccum plugged when the Sportster tank was installed? Its on the top of the carb, as you look at it mounted on the bike, its in the 12 o'clock position.

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-23-2017, 12:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rick View Post
Was the port for the petcock vaccum plugged when the Sportster tank was installed? Its on the top of the carb, as you look at it mounted on the bike, its in the 12 o'clock position.
I nearly asked that same question earlier. However, the parts diagrams didn't show a vacuum line coming from petcock.

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-23-2017, 06:06 AM Thread Starter
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Yea it was part of he fuel separator but I took all that off and plugged up everything I even capped off that vaulve on the carb itself so we are all good there
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-23-2017, 08:49 AM Thread Starter
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Update .... clamps on the carb boot where to loose tighten down open up the fuel screw runs like a champ now thanks for all yalls help
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