Running tubeless with spokes wheels - Kawasaki Vulcan Forum : Vulcan Forums
 
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 04-10-2017, 09:22 PM Thread Starter
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Running tubeless with spokes wheels

I just finished installing my wheels (on my 2008 Yamaha Roadstar) after sealing my spoke rims using 3M 5200 Marine Adhesive - Fast Cure (24 hrs.) and installing new Metzeler 888 WWW tires. The advantage of running tubeless is that you can easily use a plug patch on the road if you have a flat. Went well, took my time, not leaks so far. The standard 5200 takes a week to cure. The fast cure 5200 takes 1 hour to skin over and 24 hours to cure. (took mine about 48 hours). The 4200 isn't as permanent, but skins over in about 30 minutes. The 4000 UV is better for steel, but again, skins over in about 30 minutes. I wanted more time to work it, so I chose the 5200 fast cure. The 5200 is very thick and sticky. Make sure you open the tube all the way or you will get hand cramps. I took only one tube ($24) to do both wheels. Will check them throughout the week for pressure before I pull it down off the jacks this weekend. I had my rims trued first and they needed no adjustment so I did not use the paper dots on the nipple heads as some folks do figuring with 35K miles it is unlikely I will ever need to true them. Here's what I did.

Cleaned the inside of the rims and nipples with a wire wheel, wire brush, Dremel tool, dental pic and sand paper making sure I got all the rust spots and oxidization off. There wasn't much on my 2008 wheels.



Cleaned everything real good with acetone.



The valve stems I bought were 8.3mm as necessary, but the rubber gaskets had a thick flange on them so I cut the flange off one of them and reversed the gasket under the beveled washer to make a good seal.

Original


Modified


Made a hard plastic template for each wheel to contour tight with the inside of the rim. Made it about 1/8" above the tops of the nipples.



Started at the valve stem and sealed it entirely. Moving the caulk gun up and down as you go ensures a good sticky bond to all surfaces.



Then covered about 6 or 8 nipples real good then went back and filled in the space and then used the template to smooth it up to the last set of nipples. Then repeated for 6 or 8 more nipples.



Took about 45 minutes to carefully do each wheel and it did not skin over until after I was done. That's a good thing. Cleaned any messes off with acetone before it dried.


Last edited by Shores; 04-10-2017 at 09:30 PM.
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 04-11-2017, 12:08 AM
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Looks great for now! It would be great if You could share Your experience after 1k of miles, for example.
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 04-11-2017, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by tehnis View Post
Looks great for now! It would be great if You could share Your experience after 1k of miles, for example.
Yes, the test will be when you are rolling down the road with the rim and spokes flexing.
And yes, I find spoked wheels a pain too.
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 04-11-2017, 05:21 PM Thread Starter
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I understand the concern and interest. I can tell you that I am not the first to do this. A google search will reveal that lots of folks have used this technique, the 5200 is preferred and folks are having no failure unless it is just initial leaks from a poor initial seal.
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 05-07-2017, 09:31 PM
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So, i come from a bicycle background. There have been tubeless kits for spoke wheels or years. It's basically a rubber strip that goes on the wheel, and a product similar to Slime that goes in the tire. Does that exist for a motorcycle?
My mountain bike rims are not designed for tubeless, but i have this kind of setup
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