Job report on front cylinder valve clearance check:
I used a metric feeler gauge set from NAPA with .02 to .10mm,15,20,25,30mm in the set, and found those worked out ok. The IN shims were in specs for the front with 0.10 being good and 0.15 being tight so the IN shims were left unchanged for the front. For the front EX I put in smaller 2.30mm shims for both right and left sides, (with 0.20 being good to slightly loose and 0.25 being ok for the right side EX) and (0.20 good to slightly loose and 0.25 being slightly tight for the left side EX).
I didn't remove the front cylinder igniter unit when taking off the front head cover, I just pulled out the plug wire from the front plug and left the plug in, also I didn't remove the carb either from the boot. For rad hoses I had drained all the rad fluid at the bolt on the right side near the oil drain bolt under the motor, I removed the 2 - 10mm bolts holding the thermostat unit and the single 8mm bolt holding the Y connector at the frame, I left the rad hose connected at the rear cylinder block and just disconnected that hose at the Y, and for the front block rad hose I disconnected at front block and then lifted up the whole rad hose unit up out of the way and rested it on top of the frame. I don't know why it was so easy turning the crank with both plugs left in, but it was. I plan to do the rear valve clearance check next.
Thunder Mfg teardrop 40's K&N 170MJ 48PJ 2.75turns DynoJet Needle DNO106 2nd notch V&H Cruzers Aeromach risers Michelin Commander IIs Wix 51358 filter 17T/40 Sprockets, 2357 rear bulbs