Valve clearance check procedure - Kawasaki Vulcan Forum : Vulcan Forums
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-28-2017, 01:03 PM Thread Starter
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Valve clearance check procedure

I'm planning on doing a valve clearance check on my '05 800 with 29,500 miles, previous owner did this job 4,100 miles ago, and have a question.
Do I have to remove the spark plugs or can I leave them in and get the cylinder head covers up and over the plugs?

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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-28-2017, 01:13 PM Thread Starter
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oh wait, someone just told me that I will fight with compression turning the crank over if I leave the plugs in

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-29-2017, 12:22 PM
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Read this. https://www.vulcanforums.com/forums/5...st-did-em.html
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-30-2017, 09:55 AM Thread Starter
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in my theory, if I were to leave the plugs in and hand turn the crankshaft over slowly to get piston at TDC, compressed air should slowly expel out thru the rings right?

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-30-2017, 10:05 AM
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In my experience doing this with marine outboards, it's possible to turn it leaving the spark plugs in, but it's difficult, requires a lot of effort, and also hard to get it lined up where you need it. it's much easier to screw the plugs out and leave them sitting in the well when you can.

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-30-2017, 11:05 AM
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RTFM, people!

Quote:
Originally Posted by btom View Post
in my theory...
Why are You trying to invent a new motorcycle? As I understood form Your other posts, You had a service manual. Right?
So, Why don't You just read it first?
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-30-2017, 02:35 PM
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You have no trouble taking off the valve cover, but dont want to remove the plugs???
Get them out of your way, its will be so much easier!


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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-30-2017, 02:37 PM Thread Starter
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I just finished checking the front cylinder shims, the intake ones were fine and just changed the exhaust ones to smaller shims, and I left the plugs in and turned the crank and it was easy to do, very little effort turning the crank

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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-30-2017, 02:59 PM Thread Starter
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ok i left the rear plug in and then turned the crank counter-clockwise over to the R mark on the crank wheel, easy as pie, now going to check the rear cylinder shims

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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-31-2017, 06:31 AM Thread Starter
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Job report on front cylinder valve clearance check:
I used a metric feeler gauge set from NAPA with .02 to .10mm,15,20,25,30mm in the set, and found those worked out ok. The IN shims were in specs for the front with 0.10 being good and 0.15 being tight so the IN shims were left unchanged for the front. For the front EX I put in smaller 2.30mm shims for both right and left sides, (with 0.20 being good to slightly loose and 0.25 being ok for the right side EX) and (0.20 good to slightly loose and 0.25 being slightly tight for the left side EX).
I didn't remove the front cylinder igniter unit when taking off the front head cover, I just pulled out the plug wire from the front plug and left the plug in, also I didn't remove the carb either from the boot. For rad hoses I had drained all the rad fluid at the bolt on the right side near the oil drain bolt under the motor, I removed the 2 - 10mm bolts holding the thermostat unit and the single 8mm bolt holding the Y connector at the frame, I left the rad hose connected at the rear cylinder block and just disconnected that hose at the Y, and for the front block rad hose I disconnected at front block and then lifted up the whole rad hose unit up out of the way and rested it on top of the frame. I don't know why it was so easy turning the crank with both plugs left in, but it was. I plan to do the rear valve clearance check next.

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