So, after being surprised by how loud my "new" Straightshots were, I was considering getting the quiet baffles for them. However, the reviews I read were either very positive or very negative, not much in between, so I didn't know who to believe and I was hesitant to spent $150+tax on a pair only to find out that they didn't quiet the exhaust down much. So, I started brainstorming how I could make my own. The following is how I went about doing so. I am a very impatient person, so I once I found the parts I needed I didn't bother doing much shopping around, but I think I still managed to make them for half the cost of what the genuine baffles cost. The total for the parts came out to be about $85. Also, the parts that I used fit the Straightshot Classics with a 2-1/8" baffle.
I went to a local hardware/automotive store and picked up 4x 2"OD X 1-3/4"OD reducers and 2x 1-1/2"ID connectors. I then went and picked up a 1-1/4" copper pipe cap. Here they are laid out next to the stock baffle.
Next I cut down the reducers. I removed 1" from the 2"OD side, and 1-3/8" from the 1-3/4"OD side so they looked like this.
With those cut, I started laying out the end tube that goes on the header side of the baffle. I believe the genuine V&H quiet baffles had 6 rows of 4 holes, but I just made 4 rows of 3 1/2" holes. I laid out the lines approx 1/2" from the end, then set them up 3/4" center to center. I also drilled an additional 4 holes between those holes for screws to hold the copper cap on.
Because the copper cap would block the outer 4 holes, I lined the cap up, marked the holes and then drilled them.
Then, using a bench vice I pressed the 1-1/2" connector into the reducer from the 2" side, like so:
Then attached the copper end cap:
Now for the perforated section for the baffle material. I went to a local metal supply store and picked up some expanded metal sheet. There are lots of different kinds, this one is still very rigid without being too thick. I cut pieces 8" long and approximately 5-1/2" wide. It should be noted that the pieces being 8" long resulted in baffles about 3 inches longer than the genuine quiet baffles, but this was intentional on my part.
Then, I wrapped the metal into approximately a cylinder. I had a piece of 1" black iron pipe I put in my vice to help with this, but you could always use the left over piece cut off of the reducers. Using some stainless steel safety wire, I sewed up the two sides so it would stay as a cylinder.
It was a bit difficult to slip the cylinder onto the adapter fittings, but once they were on there I tried to make everything as straight as possible, then secured each end with 4 self-drilling sheet metal screws.
And that was basically it. I then wrapped the perforated section with flat stove gasket. The 2" side of the reducers were about 1/8" too narrow, but the stove gasket on the perforated middle section made for a nice snug fit. I also drilled and tapped a 1/4" X 20 hole on the exhaust side of the baffle for a bolt to secure the baffles in place. I don't really trust how secure they are though, so I might try to put a nut inside as backup. Also, I am skeptical that the self-drilling screws I used are going to hold tight with the vibrations, so I will likely pull these out and see if I can find a welder who will tack things together, or at the very least take the pieces apart and use muffler cement.
I should also mention that when drilling the pipes it will save you a lot of grief if you use a step-drill bit for the larger holes. I have some very nice, very sharp, Norseman twist drill bits and it was a nightmare to drill the first hole and it bent the tube up quite a bit, so after straightening it out I remembered that I had a step-drill bit in the same bag as my drills and used that... Doy!
Now on to the important part: How do they sound? Well, frankly, they worked perfectly! Like with all the (positive) reviews I read online about the quiet baffles, these seem to have made the exhaust sound deeper, and though they are certainly a lot quieter, they are still plenty loud. I suppose that means I probably could have just bought the V&H quiet baffles and they would have done what I wanted, but this way I saved about 50% and had a fun project to do. Also, the perforated sections on the baffles I made are about 3" longer, so it's possible they quiet it down a bit more than the genuine baffles. I now feel like I am far less likely to get pulled over (because of my exhaust at least) and ordered to get a vehicle inspection or fix-it ticket.
Hopefully someone finds this useful. Cheers!