800 Valve Cover Removal - Kawasaki Vulcan Forum : Vulcan Forums
 
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post #1 of 3 (permalink) Old 01-31-2017, 01:19 PM Thread Starter
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Location: Ormond Beach, Florida
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800 Valve Cover Removal

Trying to remove the valve covers to check the valves.
can someone tell me if the spark plug tube is supposed to stay in the head?
like should i leave the plug in so the cover slips off top of the tube?
- not seeing how the cover can come off with the tube still in it.

1964 Yamaha 90cc - hacked up to loose weight and riden in the dirt
1981 Suzuki 450E - bought new
1983 Suzuki 1100ES - bought new
1983 Yamaha Maxim 750 - resurrected from the scrap pile
1999 Vulcan 800 - resurrected from the scrap pile
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post #2 of 3 (permalink) Old 02-01-2017, 11:10 AM
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Hi!
Be careful with two things. First, valve cover gasket. Do not ruin it when removing cover. Second, spark plug tube should stay in its place! If You pull it out, problems guaranteed.
Check this topic and videos at the end.
https://www.vulcanforums.com/forums/5...estions-2.html
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post #3 of 3 (permalink) Old 02-04-2017, 07:27 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks tehnis.
good videos - i can't understand Russian, but the seems t know what he's doing. lol

yes. careful with the rubber gasket! wouldn't want to price, order, wait, pay, for a pair of those.

Tubes stay in the head. loosened the valve cover, put in some wood shims to hold the cover up, and used a drift pumch
to pop them out of the valve cover - then the cover moves out from under the frame.
will oil up the o-rings on the tubes before re-assembly.

found another issue with checking the existing shims.
if you pull out the shim and can read the numbers on them (valve side) - then they are not wore that much.
using a caliper is a bit dicey as it measures the shim at points which have not worn. the top of the valve wears a divot into the shim. the rocker wears a (larger) divot into the top of the shim.
I'm going to believe the valve and the rocker have more hardness than the shim, so the shim wears and is then replaceable.
measuring the shim with calipers is only good with a new part - and a wore out shim can give a reading which is really the non-worn area of a shim which when installed has some very different geometry.

I did move some shims around between valves. if i could read the numbers etched into them i claimed them as good.
of the eight valves, i ended up with 6 i made happy with mix and match shims. two shims were condemned and replaced with a different (increased) value.
in the end, had to order two shims, a 2.55 and a 2.40, and two chrome bolts. shims $12 each, valve cover bolts $3.50 each (as they were rusted up bad).

my friend bought this bike at 17,000 miles. no idea if anyone ever did the valves.
he rode it to 24,000. never did the valves (because i would have been the guy to do it if asked to be involved)
i have the bike now and it has 33,500 on it.
so now i'm popping the top and looking at the valves. changing the crappy corroded chrome cover that no one ever polished and just let rot.

within a week i should be good.

1964 Yamaha 90cc - hacked up to loose weight and riden in the dirt
1981 Suzuki 450E - bought new
1983 Suzuki 1100ES - bought new
1983 Yamaha Maxim 750 - resurrected from the scrap pile
1999 Vulcan 800 - resurrected from the scrap pile
Brewster_440 is offline  
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