Leaking petcock? This can't be good... - Kawasaki Vulcan Forum : Vulcan Forums
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-10-2016, 03:04 PM Thread Starter
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Leaking petcock? This can't be good...

Okay, I think I may have found at least one of my bog/hesitation issues.
In taking apart the bike, first the air cleaner and box, I noticed a strong smell of gasoline as if the air filter were almost damp with it.
Then I moved on to the seat and everything else and when I got to the tank and removed the hose from the petcock, fuel kept pouring out of it at a very steady rate. Not a solid gush, but as if it needed no vacuum to pass through at all.
This is a vacuum-based delivery system, yes?
For about 5 minutes (no lie) fuel kept pouring out, enough to fill a small paper cup, so I replaced the fuel line and got a rubber cap to seal the petcock line in order to remove the fuel tank.

Ultimately, I'm looking to see if I overtightened the carb/manifold intake hose...which I think I did...but this constant fuel dripping problem IS a problem, yes?

I know I've read about it here in the past. Is there an easy fix? Is that a loaded question?
Thanks, as always, for any advice.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-10-2016, 08:07 PM
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51023 in this diagram is the best fix for the fuel leaking. About 50% of those with this problem have had luck with rebuild kits. You can also take it apart and stretch the spring some, but it is vaccum actuated, so stretch too much and it may not open enough, not enough and it will still leak. Kawasaki Motorcycle Parts 2005 VN800-B10 Vulcan 800 Classic FUEL TANK Diagram

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-11-2016, 03:28 AM
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Hi, gtrdave43!
Did You read this topic couple of posts ago? If not, You should!
Replace Your petcock with cheap Suzuki analog.
https://www.vulcanforums.com/forums/2557377-post17.html
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-11-2016, 08:16 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies and, yes, I just read that thread.
The $9 manual tap is out of stock on eBay, but I found it on Amazon for just over $9.
I guess it's worth a shot.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-11-2016, 09:52 AM Thread Starter
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As a side note...could this leaking petcock issue be a cause of the low end bog and hesitation and backfiring that I've been experiencing?
I mean, could too much fuel be getting dumped into the carb at one time to cause this?

This bike ran perfectly...I mean smooth and strong and no bog, no hesitation, no backfiring or burbling on deceleration, etc...when I bought it in June and then the trouble started a month later on a long ride w/ friends (details in another thread) and I haven't been able to get it to run like that since, but I'm determined to fix it.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-11-2016, 12:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtrdave43 View Post
I mean, could too much fuel be getting dumped into the carb at one time to cause this?
Well, if Your carburetor float is properly adjusted and the float needle is ok, then it should shut off the fuel line and prevent physical overflows. Even if Your petcock is leaking You should not be able to overflow Your carb. So, even You use Your petcock in straight open mode, or even You use any other petcock without a vacuum control the fuel level in Your carburetor should be the same and equal to a proper adjustment.

AFAIK You can bog Your engine with a stuck choke, or clogged float needle. Backfire was my issue too, until I replaced my air cut off valve. So, my suggestion would be that You check Your carb, dissemble and clean it along.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-11-2016, 02:30 PM Thread Starter
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Well, if Your carburetor float is properly adjusted and the float needle is ok, then it should shut off the fuel line and prevent physical overflows. Even if Your petcock is leaking You should not be able to overflow Your carb. So, even You use Your petcock in straight open mode, or even You use any other petcock without a vacuum control the fuel level in Your carburetor should be the same and equal to a proper adjustment.

AFAIK You can bog Your engine with a stuck choke, or clogged float needle. Backfire was my issue too, until I replaced my air cut off valve. So, my suggestion would be that You check Your carb, dissemble and clean it along.
I guess I'll have to check the carb. The previous owner had it rebuilt and, as I said earlier, the bike ran flawless for the first month of ownership, so maybe something failed prematurely.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-11-2016, 04:57 PM
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the parts inside the petcock are wear items, meaning they are like car brake pads, they wear down and need replacing, its not premature failure for wear items on your bike to need replacing

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-11-2016, 08:49 PM Thread Starter
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the parts inside the petcock are wear items, meaning they are like car brake pads, they wear down and need replacing, its not premature failure for wear items on your bike to need replacing
I was speaking in reference to the rebuilt carb. A proper rebuild w/ a proper carb kit should not have failed a little more than a month after the rebuild was supposedly done.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-12-2016, 12:37 AM
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What to say... Good old story. Never fully trust the previous owner or the technician in the workshop. Always check Yourself. It's Your carb and nobody else will care for quality so much as You do! It could be a bad rebuild kit, bad rebuild procedure or absolutely lazy or even dumb previous owner. Don't be afraid to take apart Your carb Yourself! You have plenty of time, no rush. And don't order or buy anything before You know exactly what You need!
In my opinion so far this was the best video explaining carburetor structure.

Last edited by tehnis; 10-12-2016 at 12:39 AM.
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