Sharpen up some rebar on a blade sharpening wheel to a somewhat sharp point (or best as a sharp point you can make) place in pipe until you feel first baffle wall. Use a hammer and start tapping on it until you start a puncture hole. Also I used a hole saw with 12" extensions "hammer drill". Put some motor oil on hole saw bit to keep cooled. Use extension magnet to remove pieces of metal left behind.
Also used a 6' metal rock pole which is pretty heavy and rammed into drilled through holes to open hole up more. Repeat same process with second baffle. There are 2 baffles in each muffler (VN1700 classic pipes) going through rear, and 1 in front after you remove mufflers. You'll have to remove muffler in order to get front baffles. You get better stability busting through rear baffles with mufflers left on. I left my tips on and didn't mess with tearing apart rivots and plates. Gives the pipes a stock look and unmodified detection. I personally do not like the look of having that big of a muffler with a 2-3" opening by removing actual baffle, so by punching through the center walls you can achieve a 1" straight flow.
I drilled through the cats on each muffler and removed them. Hole saw took most scrap of honey cone out, extension magnet retrieved smaller pieces left behind. Used air line to blow out more scrap.
You will notice a more aggressive deeper note once completed, and as long as you don't mess around with air intake by using a more free flowing filter, you won't need a tuner for it. I noticed an immediate jump in MPG's after drilling through the baffles. Went from 35.6 to 39.9 MPG's after 10 miles or more or riding. Also sound can be heard from over 1.5 miles away after mod, much more deeper, aggressive sound. However it did take some miles after mod to get to the deeper note, as remaining busted up walls start heating up and allow more flow to go through as well as sound.
It is kinda labor intensive to bust through those walls, especially when I had to hold that heavy 6' rock pole which is like 40 lbs or heavier.
Friend of mine has the cobras on his Voyager and my stock pipes give out a deeper note then his, but not by that much. So you do save $$ vs buying cobra slip ons. Vance and Hines I can't comment about, have yet to find a Vulcan with them on to make a comparison in person, not by watching a video online.
When you take off mufflers to do the front baffle walls, make sure you place mufflers upright and allow them to rest on something soft. I used a pillow from a lawn chair to ensure they would not get scratched and held them tight so they wouldn't have a chance of separation when drilling and banging the rebar through them. I re sharpened rebar several times during this mod. It's best if you have an extra set of hands to hold mufflers securely while you bang through front walls.
Now the cat sits in where pipe angles a little inside, so removing all of the cat is kinda tricky and extracting the drilled out pieces. Unless your state has emission testing (mine doesn't) you might want to leave cat in?? You will notice that you will feel exhaust pressure come out more powerful at least 6' away from pipe. It won't make it sound obnoxiously loud where you have wake the dead pipes, just a nice deeper rumble the way a single crank pin V twin is suppose to sound like give or take.
2011 VN1700 Classic.
Cobra Fi2000 PowrPro Tune
K&N Air Filter
Mustang Sport Touring Seat - Studded
Slipstreamer Stealth Windshield
Kawasaki Engine Cover Trim
Sissy Bar Studded Backrest & Luggage Rack
Kuryakyn ISO Deluxe Brake Pedal Pad
Kuryakyn Flamed Floorboard Cover
Kuryakyn Adjustable Cruise Peg
Kuryakyn ISO Large Male Mount Pegs
6,000K Xenon HID Kit
Carroll Leather Saddlebags
Wolo Bad Boy horn