Auxiliary Power Connections - Kawasaki Vulcan Forum : Vulcan Forums
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 09:21 AM Thread Starter
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Auxiliary Power Connections

In my quest to upgrade I now have more devices than auxiliary power connectors (electric gloves, gps, dual USB ports). Has anyone run an additional fuse box? Also, any idea what size the spade lug is for the aux connectors as I have various sizes and none seem to fit these connectors (proprietary??). Thanks
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 07:15 PM
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 08:20 PM
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The spades in the fairing are very large. I don't have the size handy now.

I don't have this one (YET) but this fusr block looks freakin' awesome https://www.advdesigns.com/fuzeblock...yABEgLG__D_BwE. Keyed or always on options for every slot. Common ground strip.

I have used something like this for the fairing connectors:



Installed:
RAM mount for TomTom Rider 400 (with anti theft module)
6000k LED Headlight & Spots; Kisan Headlight Modulator (works with LEDs),
__Brake Light Modulator, LED License Plate Holder
Longer Kickstand
Dobeck EJK 3.0
Lucky Mirror Extenders
Misc. RAM Mounts for Cup Holder, SPOT, Phone, etc.
Chuckster BAK, Trailer Hitch and Cooler Rack
Wiring for Trailer
Ray's Throttle Mod
Things to do:
Drilling Baffle Plates (Maybe)
Paint HF Tag Along Trailer to Match Bike

LET'S RIDE
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-24-2019, 10:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sabre-t View Post
The spades in the fairing are very large. I don't have the size handy now.
I think you are talking about the 10 amp accessory plugs, one under the seat and the other behind the headlight are designed to use bullet connectors (two in each plug) or you can use a single spade but it is not designed for that.

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'05 Vulcan 2000 - Gone to the car gods

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-24-2019, 01:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VulcanRide View Post
I think you are talking about the 10 amp accessory plugs, one under the seat and the other behind the headlight are designed to use bullet connectors (two in each plug) or you can use a single spade but it is not designed for that.
i didn't realize they were dual bullets. i had some large spades w/ rolled edges tat fit perfectly. maybe the plug they used is intended to worked both ways by the plug oem. thanks.

Installed:
RAM mount for TomTom Rider 400 (with anti theft module)
6000k LED Headlight & Spots; Kisan Headlight Modulator (works with LEDs),
__Brake Light Modulator, LED License Plate Holder
Longer Kickstand
Dobeck EJK 3.0
Lucky Mirror Extenders
Misc. RAM Mounts for Cup Holder, SPOT, Phone, etc.
Chuckster BAK, Trailer Hitch and Cooler Rack
Wiring for Trailer
Ray's Throttle Mod
Things to do:
Drilling Baffle Plates (Maybe)
Paint HF Tag Along Trailer to Match Bike

LET'S RIDE
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-24-2019, 01:45 PM
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Sabre-T I never could find a spade big enough so I just used the normal size until last year I was watching a video and the guy just said it in passing. I went out to the bike and sure enough a bullet works perfect.

I would also suggest that when you are adding USB ports to the bike you need to look at the output amps, new phones and some other devices like to have 2+ Amp so you can operate them as well as charge them.
Most cars have 1.x amps so if you are using your phone for navigation it will not charge and in some cases slowly drain the phone. I added a volt meter/dual USB and it is rated at 4.2 amps 2.1 per USB.
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'05 Vulcan 2000 - Gone to the car gods

'16 Vulcan 1700 Voyager - New in 2017


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Last edited by VulcanRide; 04-24-2019 at 10:28 PM.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-24-2019, 08:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VulcanRide View Post
Sabre-T I never could find a spade big enough so I just used the normal size until last year I was watching a video and they guy just said it in passing. I went out to the bike and sure enough a bullet works perfect.

I would also suggest that when you are adding USB ports to the bike you need to look at the output amps, new phones and some other devices like to have 2+ Amp so you can operate them as well as charge them.
Most cars have 1.x amps so if you are using your phone for navigation it will not charge and in some cases slowly drain the phone. I added a volt meter/dual USB and it is rated at 4.2 amps 2.1 per USB.
i run most accessories off my own key powered fuse block or their own relays. i have had too many problems w/ phones running anything but BT for gps and music and trying to charge. overheating. so i usually do charge at 1 amp and turn off music if btty can't keep up w/ 1 amp charging.

i don't remember the spade size but i had a couple left over after a welder, stove or some hev duty repair.

i like the panal you made, especially the heated gear controls. did you have to dismantle them to make the lights poke thru? any weatherproofing?

Installed:
RAM mount for TomTom Rider 400 (with anti theft module)
6000k LED Headlight & Spots; Kisan Headlight Modulator (works with LEDs),
__Brake Light Modulator, LED License Plate Holder
Longer Kickstand
Dobeck EJK 3.0
Lucky Mirror Extenders
Misc. RAM Mounts for Cup Holder, SPOT, Phone, etc.
Chuckster BAK, Trailer Hitch and Cooler Rack
Wiring for Trailer
Ray's Throttle Mod
Things to do:
Drilling Baffle Plates (Maybe)
Paint HF Tag Along Trailer to Match Bike

LET'S RIDE

Last edited by Sabre-t; 04-24-2019 at 08:34 PM.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-24-2019, 10:21 PM
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Thanks, I used the Gerbing Dual Permanent Temp-Controller, only thing I would do different is mount the lights at 3 o'clock and not 12 as it is hard to see if they are on when riding but not that big of a deal. I run the heated gear off of the 10 amp auxiliary from behind the headlight, have run two vests and gloves and didn't have an issue. The USB is from a fused line I run to a block behind the headlight so I can have it on anytime I want and my garage door opener is also wired to the always on.

FYI you garage door opener runs off a small 12v battery, I wired it to my motorcycle battery and I can open the garage another 30 feet from the house and never worry about the battery going dead.

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'05 Vulcan 2000 - Gone to the car gods

'16 Vulcan 1700 Voyager - New in 2017


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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-25-2019, 12:32 AM
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I just stuffed a modified "always on" (jumped across the terminals) 12v garage door opener into a plastic zip-lock bag, taped the bag into my fairing, and soldered wires from where the batteries used to be - to ground, and to my headlight high-beam wire.

No button required. I just flash my garage with high-beam, and the door goes up, or down.

But I certainly do like that work you've done to your leg shield there... Mine contain a dual tone car horn each side, which leaves little room for anything else.

Paul (Peg) Elliott
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'02 Nomad 1500(sold) '97 VN800B (sold)
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-25-2019, 09:37 AM
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Quote:
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No button required. I just flash my garage with high-beam, and the door goes up, or down.
My dad always told me to never attach anything to the headlight circuit, if you blow the fuse at night because what you add can be very dangerous.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Peg View Post
But I certainly do like that work you've done to your leg shield there... Mine contain a dual tone car horn each side, which leaves little room for anything else.
Thank you, I use Microsoft Visio and a scanner, put the part in the scanner then take the image into Visio and lay out the parts, print the template and then tape it to the scanned part (scan is to exact scale) and then make your holes and you are done.

Not fair, you are making me jealous with the horns. I added the Wolo bad boy but still need more.

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Vulcan, the Roman god in charge of fire and metallurgy.

'05 Vulcan 2000 - Gone to the car gods

'16 Vulcan 1700 Voyager - New in 2017


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