Running hot - Kawasaki Vulcan Forum : Vulcan Forums
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-22-2017, 09:45 AM Thread Starter
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Running hot

I just picked up a new 2017 Voyager, i new they ran hot but never imagined it this hot. Has anyone come up with a way to resolve this issue without Ivanizing the bike. I have a 7 year warranty and do not want to void it.
Thanks in advance.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-22-2017, 01:33 PM
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You can use Engine ICE, Water Wetter, or Hy-Per Lube Coolant, and the Ivan flash, but nothing helps much. I have the Ivan flash and use the Hy-Per Coolant and there is little difference when the outside temps are 85 to 113. I ride in these temps and I see little or no difference.

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-22-2017, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
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Guess I'm nit gonna be a happy guy come the summer. It runs hotter then a air cooled bike in my opinion.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-22-2017, 08:20 PM
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I have Ivanized my bike few weeks after I got it... not sure if this actually voids the warranty or not, but the difference between stock and Ivanized ECU cannot be described...needs to be experienced first hand
One option if you don't want to mess with the original ECU, get a spare one off of eBay, send it to Ivan to flash, and keep the original on the shelf.

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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-22-2017, 11:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmalek View Post
I have Ivanized my bike few weeks after I got it... not sure if this actually voids the warranty or not, but the difference between stock and Ivanized ECU cannot be described...needs to be experienced first hand
One option if you don't want to mess with the original ECU, get a spare one off of eBay, send it to Ivan to flash, and keep the original on the shelf.
Modifications and aftermarket parts cannot void the warranty unless the dealer can prove that the mod or part caused a warranty related failure. That's federal law. So if you need a bearing replaced under warranty, they can't deny it because you had the ECU flashed.

It could get tricky if the failure is something that is controlled directly or indirectly by the ECU. If they can make a good argument (remember they must prove that any mods caused the failure) that a failure was due to the flash, you might be in for a fight.

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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-23-2017, 11:47 PM
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Please do a search on this topic as it has actually been talked to death. It's not the bike running hot, it is because of all the plastic up front protecting you from the elements....if the rain can't get in then the wind can't get in to efficiently cool the engine. It's a trade off really. I put a manual fan switch on and it makes a world of difference.

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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-24-2017, 02:14 PM
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I thought the Voyager ran pretty hot for the first season, part of break-in I suppose. After several seasons its not an issue for where I ride.
Some ideas from this forum;
1. Wrapping the exhaust pipes helps. Remove the chrome cover and wrap that segment of pipe.
2. KAMS kit, though that might be standard on your late model.
3. At low speeds, in traffic its tough.
4. Try different positions of the lower air slots. I found fully closed at highway speeds temp gauge is lower.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-24-2017, 05:37 PM Thread Starter
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Most of my riding has been at highway speeds with the lowers open, so i will have to try closed.
If i wrap pipes will the shields go back on?
Thanks for input.
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-24-2017, 09:08 PM
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Ah yeah, the cover mount points will show on the pipes. Work around those points. I did the rear pipe, as itís closest to leg. Will do front pipe next year.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-27-2017, 01:26 PM
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I rode all last Summer with lowers open. This year I had them closed in cool weather and as it got hotter I forgot to open them. I noticed it ran cooler and I didn't feel the heat as much either. I ride with mine closed all the time now.

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