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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-20-2017, 04:19 PM Thread Starter
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won't start

Rode a coule hundred miles and never had an issue on friday. Stopped to and it will not start turns over great but dies not fire, Checked all fuses and all good. Acts like it isnt getting fuel, It has a power commander on it and I did notice the light doeswn't come on when i tirn on the key. It normally have a little red light on it when turned on. Not sure what the issue is. anyideas from anyone. I have checked all wires and see not obvious issues.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-20-2017, 04:36 PM
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What light doesn't come on when you turn the key? The FI light on the speedometer or some light on the power commander?

"Don't force it. Get a bigger hammer."
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-20-2017, 05:02 PM Thread Starter
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What light doesn't come on when you turn the key? The FI light on the speedometer or some light on the power commander?
The little red light on the power commander does not light up
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-20-2017, 06:44 PM
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Ah. Okay, I have zero expertise on power commanders. My vague notion is that they replace the ECU, or perhaps intercept signals to and from the ECU, so I'm reasoning from there and trying a couple of possibly quick fixes.

1) When you turn on the key, does the FI light on the speedometer light, stay on about a second or two, then go out?

2) The power commander may have a separate inline fuse, not one in the fuse boxes. Have you tracked that down and checked it? The lack of some sort of indicator light suggests it isn't getting power (or has gone off to power commander heaven, but we'll hope for Not That.)

Getting much beyond that gets into some fairly extensive troubleshooting -- at least doing a self-diagnosis on the electronic fuel injection. Got shop manual?

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-21-2017, 01:07 AM
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Originally Posted by trainermb View Post
Ah. Okay, I have zero expertise on power commanders. My vague notion is that they replace the ECU, or perhaps intercept signals to and from the ECU, so I'm reasoning from there and trying a couple of possibly quick fixes.

1) When you turn on the key, does the FI light on the speedometer light, stay on about a second or two, then go out?

2) The power commander may have a separate inline fuse, not one in the fuse boxes. Have you tracked that down and checked it? The lack of some sort of indicator light suggests it isn't getting power (or has gone off to power commander heaven, but we'll hope for Not That.)

Getting much beyond that gets into some fairly extensive troubleshooting -- at least doing a self-diagnosis on the electronic fuel injection. Got shop manual?
I'm pretty sure the PC should have a power supply and a ground. Those might be individual wires or supplied thru a plug that connects to a plug already on the bike. Either could have come loose, a wire has broken/is shorting, or the PC may have failed. The PC intercepts and modifies the signals between the fuel injectors and the ECU. I don't know if the signal would just pass thru if the PC isn't powered. I don't think it would. You should also check the connections at the FIs just in case they have come loose.

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-21-2017, 11:08 AM
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Yup, Sabre's on it, I think -- most likely suspect, no Power to the Commander or a deceased Commander. I guess they could have designed a bypass into the unit so signals would go through an unpowered unit, but -- it seems unlikely, since a) added cost and b) one more possible failure point in a system already loaded with them. One type of failure there would disable the bike if neither signal got sent, the other could create chaos at the fuel injector end if the original and altered signals both got sent.

If no obvious reason for no power, how tough would it be to pull the Power Commander out of the line and try it straight off the ECU?

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-06-2017, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
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It was the ignition switch. Found out they have an anti-theft device in the switch. It is a capacitor that sends a 7.2 volt signal to the ECM to let it know it is OK to start. The capacitor went out and didn't send the signal If you try to bypass the switch the ECM will not work. You can not find this wire in any diagram so I had to call Kawasaki to get info and then it was very difficult because I fekt as if they thought maybe I wasn't the owner. Anyway it is running
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-07-2017, 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Rick Haywood View Post
It was the ignition switch. Found out they have an anti-theft device in the switch. It is a capacitor that sends a 7.2 volt signal to the ECM to let it know it is OK to start. The capacitor went out and didn't send the signal If you try to bypass the switch the ECM will not work. You can not find this wire in any diagram so I had to call Kawasaki to get info and then it was very difficult because I fekt as if they thought maybe I wasn't the owner. Anyway it is running
Please share the fix in case others have this issue

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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-07-2017, 05:12 PM
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Please share the fix in case others have this issue
Or in case certain people might be electrical nerds and are dying to know the value of the capacitor, what it is connected to, and what sort of signal a capacitor can send!

You know ... just in case any of those folks are on here.


Why's everybody looking at me?
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"Don't force it. Get a bigger hammer."
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-07-2017, 08:40 PM
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It is a resistor, not a capacitor.
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