rear tire - Kawasaki Vulcan Forum : Vulcan Forums
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-04-2017, 06:25 PM Thread Starter
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rear tire

Can you run a 180/65/ for your rear tire or is it too big
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-04-2017, 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by preach12 View Post
Can you run a 180/65/ for your rear tire or is it too big
It will fit fine. I run that size in a Michelin Commander II
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-06-2017, 11:06 PM
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Make sure whoever installs your tires will install that size on your bike if you order it yourself. Most will, but some will not install anything that is not approved by the mfg.

If you are doing it yourself, just be aware that it will be more difficult to get on and especially to get off than the recommended size.

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-08-2017, 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Sabre-t View Post
Make sure whoever installs your tires will install that size on your bike if you order it yourself. Most will, but some will not install anything that is not approved by the mfg.

If you are doing it yourself, just be aware that it will be more difficult to get on and especially to get off than the recommended size.
I removed and installed both front and rear wheels myself and saw no noticeable difference with the new tires install. Don't concern yourself......the difference is negligible
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2012 Kawasaki Voyager
Thunder Manufacturing Round Air Kit
Dynojet PCV Fuel Processor
Dynojet AT-300 Autotune Module
Freedom Performance True Dual's (racing Baffles)
Kuryakyn Offset Highway Pegs
Michellin Commander ll's Front & Back
RacnRay's Throttle Grip
iPod Connector
Manual Fan Switch
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-09-2017, 12:53 AM
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Originally Posted by dlars View Post
I removed and installed both front and rear wheels myself and saw no noticeable difference with the new tires install. Don't concern yourself......the difference is negligible
I'm sure that depends on your equipment and experience. I don't know what equipment or experience you have changing tires, but I can assure you that, for some, the MCII is much more difficult to change on the rear than a Bridgestone and probably any other 170/70 tire.

I've even seen posts on other forums about cutting MCIIs off the rear rim because they were so difficult to remove. I had another Voyager rider over to change his MCIIs for new ones and we ended up cutting one bead on the rear tire in order to get it off after fighting with it (both of us together, not just me) for several hours.

For the record, I have the Harbor Freight setup. It's cheap and I got what I paid for, but it was all I could justify at the time. The mount/demount bar sucks! I've also only changed tires twice. I'm sure it will be much easier to do the rear with MCIIs once I get a better bar (NoMar or similar) and more experience.

Installed:
RAM mount for TomTom Rider 400 (with anti theft module)
6000k LED Headlight & Spots; Kisan Headlight Modulator (works with LEDs),
__Brake Light Modulator, LED License Plate Holder
Longer Kickstand
Dobeck EJK 3.0
Lucky Mirror Extenders
Misc. RAM Mounts for Cup Holder, SPOT, Phone, etc.
Chuckster BAK, Trailer Hitch and Cooler Rack
Wiring for Trailer
Ray's Throttle Mod
Things to do:
Drilling Baffle Plates (Maybe)
Paint HF Tag Along Trailer to Match Bike

LET'S RIDE
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-09-2017, 09:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sabre-t View Post
I'm sure that depends on your equipment and experience. I don't know what equipment or experience you have changing tires, but I can assure you that, for some, the MCII is much more difficult to change on the rear than a Bridgestone and probably any other 170/70 tire.

I've even seen posts on other forums about cutting MCIIs off the rear rim because they were so difficult to remove. I had another Voyager rider over to change his MCIIs for new ones and we ended up cutting one bead on the rear tire in order to get it off after fighting with it (both of us together, not just me) for several hours.

For the record, I have the Harbor Freight setup. It's cheap and I got what I paid for, but it was all I could justify at the time. The mount/demount bar sucks! I've also only changed tires twice. I'm sure it will be much easier to do the rear with MCIIs once I get a better bar (NoMar or similar) and more experience.
I'm not a professional tire tech who has changed millions of tires of every size and type on every vehicle ever made, however, I do change my own tires on my VV. I've changed the Brigdstone and MCIIs. Can't say as I saw much difference in the difficulty level. Maybe the MCII's sidewall is a little stiffer, IDK. Now, here comes the big BUT, I use the No-Mar mount/demount bar with the HF tire changer. Makes it a lot easier than with the junk bar that comes with it. The bead breaker leaves a little to be desired but with a small length of 2x4 placed under the tire, it gets the job done. I had the HF balancer also but found that to be junk too. I got the TUSK precision balancer. Does an excellent job. Even with the HF balancer dead lever the bar would walk to one side or the other and contact the uprights when the tire was rotating. And yes, I did replace it with a straight one. Doesn't happen with the TUSK. Has a built in bubble level that makes it easy to get it level. Now, I sure all the tire experts will jump in here with all the technical what nots and the ins and outs of tire changing but I'm just giving my experience with doing the job myself. I'm sure others will and have had different experiences.

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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-10-2017, 03:01 PM
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It's not the NoMar bar's fault and I too almost broke my tip. You need to use the 4 spoon method as the tires are just too stiff. Look at their videos for Goldwing tire mount (there is 2x) for demo.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sabre-t View Post
I'm sure that depends on your equipment and experience. I don't know what equipment or experience you have changing tires, but I can assure you that, for some, the MCII is much more difficult to change on the rear than a Bridgestone and probably any other 170/70 tire.

I've even seen posts on other forums about cutting MCIIs off the rear rim because they were so difficult to remove. I had another Voyager rider over to change his MCIIs for new ones and we ended up cutting one bead on the rear tire in order to get it off after fighting with it (both of us together, not just me) for several hours.

For the record, I have the Harbor Freight setup. It's cheap and I got what I paid for, but it was all I could justify at the time. The mount/demount bar sucks! I've also only changed tires twice. I'm sure it will be much easier to do the rear with MCIIs once I get a better bar (NoMar or similar) and more experience.

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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017, 11:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pilot747 View Post
I'm not a professional tire tech who has changed millions of tires of every size and type on every vehicle ever made, however, I do change my own tires on my VV. I've changed the Brigdstone and MCIIs. Can't say as I saw much difference in the difficulty level. Maybe the MCII's sidewall is a little stiffer, IDK. Now, here comes the big BUT, I use the No-Mar mount/demount bar with the HF tire changer. Makes it a lot easier than with the junk bar that comes with it. The bead breaker leaves a little to be desired but with a small length of 2x4 placed under the tire, it gets the job done. I had the HF balancer also but found that to be junk too. I got the TUSK precision balancer. Does an excellent job. Even with the HF balancer dead lever the bar would walk to one side or the other and contact the uprights when the tire was rotating. And yes, I did replace it with a straight one. Doesn't happen with the TUSK. Has a built in bubble level that makes it easy to get it level. Now, I sure all the tire experts will jump in here with all the technical what nots and the ins and outs of tire changing but I'm just giving my experience with doing the job myself. I'm sure others will and have had different experiences.
I'm sure the No-Mar makes a big difference. Do you use a No-Mar Yellow Thing, or do you find that you don't need anything like that?

I went with Dynobeads instead of trying to balance the tires.

Installed:
RAM mount for TomTom Rider 400 (with anti theft module)
6000k LED Headlight & Spots; Kisan Headlight Modulator (works with LEDs),
__Brake Light Modulator, LED License Plate Holder
Longer Kickstand
Dobeck EJK 3.0
Lucky Mirror Extenders
Misc. RAM Mounts for Cup Holder, SPOT, Phone, etc.
Chuckster BAK, Trailer Hitch and Cooler Rack
Wiring for Trailer
Ray's Throttle Mod
Things to do:
Drilling Baffle Plates (Maybe)
Paint HF Tag Along Trailer to Match Bike

LET'S RIDE
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 07:39 AM
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Big fan of dynamic balancing here... I was using Dyna Beads for awhile but have since moved to .060 stainless beads.
Dyna Beads are ceramic and they pulverize after a period of time. The stainless may deform but so far no issues.

I have a the HF set up bolted to my garage floor and I use one of the NoMAr style bars as well and then a specific tire lube.
I've don car tires with the combo and yes it is work but so are the hours that it takes to have a dealer do it and it's really not
all that hard.

gb

Gary

SW Michigan

2009 Kawasaki Voyager
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 07:08 PM
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Yup, I do use the "yellow thing".

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