1700 Cooling system failures - Kawasaki Vulcan Forum : Vulcan Forums
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-10-2017, 11:20 PM Thread Starter
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Location: Echuca, Victoria, Australia.
Year/Make/Model: 2010 Vulcan Classic 1700
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1700 Cooling system failures

Greetings all, an ex member 2010 Voyager owner and now a 2010 Classic owner from OZ.
2009/2010 owners now have bikes that are approximately seven years old...
Just wondering how the cooling system is going and what if any parts I should obtain now that my dealers are a considerable distance away.
Although anything can be delivered for a fee...

So what is failing in the cooling system, if anything now the miles are increasing?

Radiator Fan? (an $1100 item in OZ, $900 US???)
Radiator Hoses?
Thermostat?
Water pump/impeller?

100+ degrees at the moment outside so a relevant question here, apologises to the snow shovelling individuals over in the US...

VEE02
Vulcan 1700, lousy air conditioning, brilliant heating...
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-11-2017, 12:26 AM
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The only thing I have had fail in my cooling system is the rad cap and I realize they should be replaced once and awhile. The rad hoses I also felt were loose from the factory and I tightened them.

When draining and cleaning the rad system I felt it did not even need it last year on my 2009 Vulcan Nomad was clean and had nothing wrong with the fluid at all. But I did it anyways. It is a tough bike I feel and has very few faults compared to other bikes I love it.

Just my opinion I know.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-11-2017, 12:47 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks buckey1313
Encouraging stuff.
I've always thought if I drop the Classic hopefully it will be on the right side...
A massive dent in the fuel tank on that side would put a smile on my face... instant access to the radiator cap, and the beginning of a RAT Bike build.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-11-2017, 05:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buckey1313 View Post
The only thing I have had fail in my cooling system is the rad cap and I realize they should be replaced once and awhile. The rad hoses I also felt were loose from the factory and I tightened them.

When draining and cleaning the rad system I felt it did not even need it last year on my 2009 Vulcan Nomad was clean and had nothing wrong with the fluid at all. But I did it anyways. It is a tough bike I feel and has very few faults compared to other bikes I love it.

Just my opinion I know.
It's good that you changed the coolant. Even if the fluid looks OK, it needs to be changed every 2 years. Glycols, ethylene and propylene, break down into organic acids that can attack the system. Inhibitors which neutralize those acids get used up.

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-11-2017, 06:30 PM
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We have friends in NSW so have heard about the current weather extremes in Australia! Looks like your Classic cooling system is much needed now! In general they seem to be trouble free although as has been mentioned previously the coolant should be changed each two years.

Happy riding! Sorry about the heating/AC problems . . .

'07 Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Classic LT

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 01:06 PM
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I have a Vaquero 2012, bought it left over in 2014, so it's been with me almost 3 years. I live in Miami so we're used to temperatures in the 90's in summer. I did the coolant flush back in November. I took the opportunity to change all the hoses, they are 5. The manual ask for replacement every 4 years. I couldn't change the easiest one, the one under the radiator since the screw of the clamp was hidden, I should had cut it but I didn't have a replacement so I kept the old one, since it doesn't seem old. The most difficult to change is the one that goes to the front cylinder. It turned out to have a very small leak, that's the reason why I had the reservoir almost empty and sometimes I felt I was smelling the coolant. I followed the steps from a blog entry in this page. Another thing you can change (I'll do next time) is the thermostat and the o-ring. Thermostats tend to go "lazy" with time, they don't open completely so you have a flow restriction. And as was stated here, the radiator cap. I replaced the coolant with "engine ice", the engine still gets hot as hell when you're stuck in traffic but I feel like it gets cooler faster when you start moving.
I bought all the parts online in "partzilla.com". They have schematics for all the parts so you can see what you need. And the price is lower than the dealer. The only thing is you have to be patient, sometimes they take a couple of weeks to get all the parts together. I don't know if they ship to Australia, you can find out.
But I can tell you I never had issues with the cooling system, I did this as a regular maintenance.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-14-2017, 02:10 PM
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I see several folks mention using Engine Ice. Anybody ever tried "Cool Aide"? Its less than half the price of EI. I know it doesn't have freeze protection, but I don't leave mine outside in the cold.

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-14-2017, 04:58 PM
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Had my 2011 Vaquero for 5 years, put 100,031 miles on it. Changed the coolant once using my own concoction. Never had any coolant system failure or leaks of any kind.

RACNRAY

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WITH OVER 42 YEARS AS A MOTORCYCLE TECHNICIAN/HI-PO SHOP OWNER I AM A PURVEYOR OF FACT NOT FICTION!
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-15-2017, 01:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T Gibbs View Post
I see several folks mention using Engine Ice. Anybody ever tried "Cool Aide"? Its less than half the price of EI. I know it doesn't have freeze protection, but I don't leave mine outside in the cold.
I wouldn't do that. I live in Miami FL so I would say I don't need freeze protection. Back in March I went to Jacsonville FL to stay in a hotel and I left the bike outside. The temperature reached 28. So you never know if you're going to need it. And if the coolant freezes you can have severe damage to the engine since water expands when freezes.
The best to remove heat from the engine is water + waterwetter, it is even better than water alone. But it is not antifreeze. All other components that you add to avoid freeze and corrosion will reduce the heat transfer coefficient, but will give you other needed qualities.
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