Light Bar Wiring - Kawasaki Vulcan Forum : Vulcan Forums
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-25-2016, 12:02 PM Thread Starter
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Light Bar Wiring

Here I go again guys. I need your help. I've read a number of older posts on this subject but don't get a clear idea for my setup. I have a 2011 Vulcan Nomad 1700. The manufacturer said to wire the running lights like pic # 1.

I really don't want to have to pull wires from the battery and I "think" power & ground is right there as it currently has a 12v power outlet/cigarette lighter tapped into two wires in the bucket to charge my phone. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Last edited by psyclone; 09-04-2016 at 07:26 PM. Reason: Wrong information included
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-25-2016, 01:39 PM
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I believe the blue line is constant. You should be able to split that line. There is switched power under the seat too.


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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-04-2016, 07:41 PM Thread Starter
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Well I went ahead and took the plunge and decided to follow manufacturers wiring diagram. I didn't use a relay and hope I don't need to for any reason. I bought side taps and just wired each individual light as listed. The common wire is shared with the existing ground wire I already had hooked up to my phone charger port. All the others went directly to the running lights and headlamp wires. All is working just fine. Even have Hi/Lo for driving lights as designed. I'd recommend this light bar to anyone as yet another option. It's not a cheapo plastic one like you see on eBay but was only $225 all in. The company was called Value Accessories but I'm sure you can find them elsewhere just don't know if the price will be the same. I'll get some pictures posted once I clean up my bike and adjust the lights
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-22-2016, 01:05 PM Thread Starter
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Okay, so I got them installed and they look great but now I have an electrical issue I think. The headlight and taillight are REALLY dim. When I switch from Hi/Lo beam it doesn't appear that the main headlamp is doing anything. The new driving lights are but not the factory headlight. I also noticed that the hi beam indicator light on my speedometer cluster is dimly lit all the time when I'm on lo beam...I originally bought side taps and wired up all the connections according to the above chart from the manufacturer but lights weren't working so I ditched the cheap side taps and just stripped back each appropriate factory wire a bit in the headlight bucket and connected the light bar wires to that. I did notice that the light bar wires are a little heaving gauge but other than that I don't know why they look great and the factory head/taillight is so dim. Any ideas???

Thanks

Kevin
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-05-2016, 06:40 PM Thread Starter
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-05-2016, 07:55 PM
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On my 11 nomad there where acessory wires in the headlight bucket. A positive and negitive. It is on with the key and off with the key. I believe two male bullet connectors and plug them in your done. Granted the light would be on whenever the key is. The lights I bought had an on off switch. So I turned them off with that. By the pics I would say you have a voltege drop that's why the lights are dim
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-11-2016, 04:30 PM Thread Starter
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I really don't want to rerun all the wires to just the positive & negative that are in the headlight bucket if I can maintain the integrity of the WHOLE lighting system. This light bar has running light bulbs (not critical but I hooked them up anyway) and the fog/driving lights that are high/low bulbs....THAT'S what I'd like to keep in tact if possible. Otherwise, I guess I'll have to run them the other way. Isn't there anyone out there with electrical knowledge that can explain why it's so dim? As I said, the wire gauge on the driving lights is a little thicker than the stock wiring harness inside the headlight bucket. Could that be the cause? I'm at a loss...I'll give it a few more days in hopes of a response with a solution, otherwise I guess I give up the high/low beam option and run them as Mes882 and others have suggested...Thanks again all.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-11-2016, 08:17 PM
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The safest solution I found was to follow these directions: Auxiliary Fuse Box

The relay and fuse box came from a local auto supply store. I used a 6 fuse box and a 40 amp relay. My light bar, cigarette lighter socket and air horn have their own circuit and I still have 3 fuse slot available.

I did this after damned near frying the running light wiring in the headlight to run the light bar.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-12-2016, 08:20 AM
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I agree with Gary_E. A relay is designed to supply the accessory, driving lights ect..., with full voltage/amperage and pull that power directly from the battery and not a source already in use. I know you may already know this but wiring into existing wiring taps you into wires with drainage already applied. If that makes sense. Sounds like you have pulled voltage from the headlight/taillight to power the added driving lights. I added driving lights to my VN2000 and tapped into the existing wiring for a hurry up easy install. I knew better. I started blowing bulbs and finally broke down the next week and installed a relay. Yes I had to run a power wire from the battery but I ran a large enough wire that I could later on add maybe an amp to my stereo if I decide to. Relay is installed inside the headlight bucket. I tapped the SWITCH wire, to the relay, into the headlight Low as well as the High beam wires by using a Diode on the high beam side. That way my driving lights stay on when switching from low to high beam. Works for me. Just my 2 cents worth. Good luck !!!
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-12-2016, 11:06 AM
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Cause you don't want run power wire from battery... You could melt the wiring BTW as you are drawing too much current. Do it right - without taps.

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