Slip-On Exhaust question - Kawasaki Vulcan Forum : Vulcan Forums
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-20-2016, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
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Slip-On Exhaust question

Hi all, I have a 2011 VN1700C and am trying to figure out if the following slip-on's will work on my bike. Does anyone know what size outlet we have on the exhaust pipes? I'm handing enough to do the work I think but don't want to disassemble the factory one just to measure and find out these don't fit or can't be retrofit. I'm REALLY tight on $$ and need more sound so people here in crazy So-Cal can hear me when I'm riding in traffic. I already cutout the first baffle in the stock pipes thanks to another thread on this forum. Any assistance is greatly appreciated. Here's some info on the pipes:

LENGTH: 29-1/2"

OUTLET: 3-1/2"

TIPS: AROUND 4" OPENING

INLET IS 1-7/8" DIAMETER TO FIT 1-3/4" DIAMETER OUTLET
***Fits all 1995-2016 Touring models - direct slip-on***
(Electra Glide, Street Glide, Road Glide, Ultra Glide, Road King, FLHT/X/R, FLTR) with stock or 1 3/4" head pipes

Thanks fellow Vulcan members!
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-21-2016, 10:39 AM
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psyclone,

If you are trying to save money, you might as well do as much as you can to the stock mufflers.
With an extension on your 1.25" diameter hole drill you can remove the second baffle plate from each muffler and see how that sounds.
Mine sounded pretty good at this point (I also had a Classic with the stock shotgun mufflers).

If you want even louder you can core out the catalytic material just behind the second baffle plates.

For maximum sound, remove the mufflers (5 minute job with simple tools) and drill out the third baffle plate from the inlet end. You will want to remove them anyway to remove any drill shavings or baffle plates that didn't come out the "easy way". At this stage you will have effectively gutted your mufflers and you will have relatively "straight thru" flow.

Trying to get a muffler made for another bike to fit is likely going to involve welding or frankensteining pieces of tubing and hanger brackets.
Why go thru the trouble when you can get similar results with some simple hand tools? The stock mufflers will still look good and won't look bastardized.

Note: Debaffling or Aftermarket Slip-ons for the 1700 Classic will generally cause noticeable decel popping without proper fuel management or an ECU Reflash...but, if you want to get noticed, some loud decel popping will definitely do the trick
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-21-2016, 01:26 PM
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OP, if I were you I'd follow Vulcan Hammer's suggestions. I drilled out the two baffles on mine and got a good sound. But, loud pipes aren't going to do that much to help you be seen in traffic. Do a search on the website and you'll see differing opinions but I believe you're wasting money trying to be heard and seen by installing loud mufflers. You'd be better off buying a loud horn. IMO. Good luck.

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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-21-2016, 07:05 PM
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If the hanger brackets don't line up exactly you are talking about a bunch of fab work that if you can't do it your self is not cheap.

Loud pipes are just annoying to pedestrians and your fellow riders, and make wildlife skittish. Four wheeler's with their windows up and stereos turned up still have no idea you are on the planet.

Light bars and brake light modulators will go much farther toward making your presence known to lazy distracted drivers.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-22-2016, 09:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TS Tinker View Post
If the hanger brackets don't line up exactly you are talking about a bunch of fab work that if you can't do it your self is not cheap.

Loud pipes are just annoying to pedestrians and your fellow riders, and make wildlife skittish. Four wheeler's with their windows up and stereos turned up still have no idea you are on the planet.

Light bars and brake light modulators will go much farther toward making your presence known to lazy distracted drivers.
+1

I've done the two plate removal and the sound is just loud enough to not annoy but loud enough to turn heads

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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-22-2016, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
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Okay, I'm thinking I need to get a longer extension for the 1-1/4" bit and take out the 2nd set....I bought a 12" I think for the first one, do you know how much further in the 2nd is? Or should I pull them off and gut the cats as well as the plate on the inlet side??? I don't mind the decel pop if it's not harming my engine by modifying the exhaust?? Do I have to get a programmer/chip/ECU flash if I continue boring out the baffles? I ordered a light bar and plan on installing that this weekend. Any ideas for a bargain brake light modulator? I appreciate all of your input....Looking forward to any/all ideas to include HID, Horn, ????
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-23-2016, 05:59 AM
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psyclone,

I believe that the second set of plates are about 6 inches behind the first, but if you have already drilled out the first set, you should be able to see the second set and measure yourself with a dowel or broomstick. The corrugated cat material is just behind this, so don't drill too far just yet.

Take it in stages and see if you like it. Going further is up to you.

The decel popping has actually always been there and doesn't hurt your engine. With the plates drilled, it just means that the mufflers are not "muffling" it anymore...you just didn't hear it before when the mufflers were undrilled.

You don't have to get a fuel manager or reflash, but many do just to add a little more fuel to prevent the popping. The general rule is that you don't really "need" a fuel manager unless you are changing BOTH the exhaust AND intake, in order to prevent a serious lean condition. Several 1700 owners drilled out the complete muffler without a fuel manager and have not damaged their engines.

Note: Based on what I have read on this forum, the Ivan's ECU reflash definitely seems the way to go and you would not need a dyno run to get it mapped later!...so it could actually work out to be cheaper than a Power Commander V and a few hours of dyno time.
I had a Bully/EJK which helped with the popping and improved performance, but it took a lot of fiddling to find the right settings. However, for a little more, you could get the ECU reflash and greatly improved performance across the board (true plug-and-play!).

So, save your money! Do a little exhaust drilling in stages. Then get the performance mod that makes the most difference...the ECU reflash.

Last edited by Vulcan Hammer; 08-23-2016 at 09:19 AM.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-23-2016, 05:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psyclone View Post
Okay, I'm thinking I need to get a longer extension for the 1-1/4" bit and take out the 2nd set....I bought a 12"
You should be able to drill the second plate out with your 12".
The head of my drill fit in the hole I drilled with a 1 3/8" hole saw.
I drilled the pilot hole then reset the extension bit so it was 1/2" into the drill head and cut the second second plate away.

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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-23-2016, 07:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by archer2 View Post
You should be able to drill the second plate out with your 12".
The head of my drill fit in the hole I drilled with a 1 3/8" hole saw.
I drilled the pilot hole then reset the extension bit so it was 1/2" into the drill head and cut the second second plate away.
Those appear to be voyager pipes...I'm fairly certain that the same does not apply for the extreme angle of the slash-cut shotgun pipes on the 1700 Classic.

The chuck of the drill would bugger up the slash-cut ends if the extension is not long enough. I know with my Classic, only a 1-1/4" hole saw would fit the inside tube and that I used a 12" extension along with another extension at least 8" long in order to reach the second baffle plate.

Last edited by Vulcan Hammer; 08-23-2016 at 09:42 PM.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-23-2016, 07:23 PM
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Those are Voyager pipes and you are right.
My bad.

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