Dobeck EJK Settings - Kawasaki Vulcan Forum : Vulcan Forums
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-07-2016, 01:10 PM Thread Starter
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Cool Dobeck EJK Settings

I know there are many many threads on this.
I am just looking for anyone who has a similar set up to mine.

I have a drop in K&N and stock drilled pipes.
I installed an EJK (purchased used from another great forum member)

Im learning about this and programming it.

Does anyone have any suggested settings that will maximize this setup.

Thanks
Aron.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-07-2016, 05:24 PM
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The main thing I would suggest regardless of your other settings is:

Set the Green/Blue Setting (4th of 6th Settings on the 1700 EJK/Bully) from 6 to the new setting of 1 or .5
EJK recommends a setting of 6, but no-one I know has found this satisfactory.

This richens things up just off idle and is the only way on an EJK to eliminate or reduce decel popping.

I actually preferred the old 4-pot Dobecks as they were foolproof in eliminating decel popping.

Side Note: Too bad you already bought the EJK. Based on what I have read about the Ivan's ECU reflash, this is now the preferred way to go.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-07-2016, 06:31 PM Thread Starter
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While reflash is the way to go my budget is extremely tight. A fellow forum member made me an great offer to buy the ejk. I set the bike to the factory ejk settings and the difference is amazing. I'm not speed racing. I enjoy the bike very much but rarely twist it past 3000-3500 rpms. I'm not looking to win any races. I love the bike stock. Anything over that is a huge bonus.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-07-2016, 09:17 PM
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If you are interested in increasing your mpg, don't set the Green/Blue as low as VH suggested, especially if any popping you have doesn't bother you. There is nothing wrong with some popping unless you just don't like it.

I have a little different setup that you, so most of my numbers may not work on yours (Chuckster BAK and undrilled stock pipes). G-1.5; Y-1.0; R-2.0; G/B-3.0; Y/B 2.0; R/B-3.5. I'm still zeroing in but I'm close. Going from G/B-1.0 to 3.0 increased my mpg by 3 - 4 and I hardly noticed the difference in power and response. I can probably back it off a tad more and still be happy with it. BTW, I have almost no popping at all that I can hear, but my pipes still have the baffle plates in.

Installed:
RAM mount for TomTom Rider 400 (with anti theft module)
6000k LED Headlight & Spots; Kisan Headlight Modulator (works with LEDs),
__Brake Light Modulator, LED License Plate Holder
Longer Kickstand
Dobeck EJK 3.0
Lucky Mirror Extenders
Misc. RAM Mounts for Cup Holder, SPOT, Phone, etc.
Chuckster BAK, Trailer Hitch and Cooler Rack
Wiring for Trailer
Ray's Throttle Mod
Things to do:
Drilling Baffle Plates (Maybe)
Paint HF Tag Along Trailer to Match Bike

LET'S RIDE
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-09-2016, 03:14 PM Thread Starter
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I tried the dobeck defaults and was not happy.

I am running the following
2,2,1.5. 3,4,4.5

So far it runs great however I still have a slight hesitation rolling our of a slower turn in second gear.

Any suggestions.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-09-2016, 06:37 PM
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Remember the Dobek defaults are for a complete air kit with aftermarket exhaust. With a K&N and drilled stock you are going to have to back those off a bit. I am sure you'll get it dialed in, and have fun doing it

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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-10-2016, 08:17 AM
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My old settings are posted here somewhere. I had my bike up on a Dyno and the AFR readings were near perfect, with BAK and V&H slipons. Made 82 hp and 102 ft. Lbs of torque. I agree that the .5 setting for green/blue made things worse in the decel popping area.

if I recall, my and settings before going to the PCV were

G/B 5
Y/B 3.5
R/B 4.5

G 3
Y 4
R 1


The bike has a decent acelerator pump and id not need much fuel top end.

2004 Vulcan 1500 Classic "Sasha" (SOLD)
2014 Vulcan Vaquero ABS SE "Candie"
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