2010 VV 1700 Gas Tank Removal - Kawasaki Vulcan Forum : Vulcan Forums
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-31-2011, 03:28 PM Thread Starter
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2010 VV 1700 Gas Tank Removal

Any easy way to remove tank from the bike ? I just want to look around and get familular with the bike ,trying to pin down a rattle that sounds like its off the engine, I know about all the other rattle spots and checked those also might want to take a peak at the spark plugs as close to 17,000 also getting what sounds like spark knock!! No mater what grade of gas I use!searched the forum and didnt find any tank removal for the 1700 ! Thanks eric
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-31-2011, 04:56 PM
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Well Eric I've had the tank off several times now but I"ll never forget the first time. The hardest part is taking off the "ignition switch cover". The manual just says remove it, doesn't say how. The "Ignition Switch Cover" is the round peace that has all the words on it. The best way I found to remove it is to have 2 puddy knives. I use a cloth over each and insert at 3 & 9 O'Clock between ignition switch cover and the "Cover" (the manual calls it). Then pry up until it uncatches. The first time you will think you are going to break it. But it will come out.
Then it's the two little bolts and a nut. Cover off. Then the two larger tank bolts. I use a short 2x4 to prop up the tank (where the 2 bolts were) while I disconnect the fuel pump lead connector, fuel hose and last the breather hose on the right rear.
If you want, you can call me = 904-2695881
David


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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-01-2011, 08:44 AM
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Tank

The manual says you have to drain the tank first. Is that true or does it have a valve like my Suzuki had that keeps the fuel from draining out when you disconnect the hose?

Thanks
Stuart
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-01-2011, 10:03 AM
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The manual says you have to drain the tank first. Is that true or does it have a valve like my Suzuki had that keeps the fuel from draining out when you disconnect the hose?

Thanks
Stuart
No you don't have to drain it but it's better if it's low on gas to make it lighter. Yes there's something there to keep it from comming out. I might get a drop or two.


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2009 Vulcan Voyager ABS/ my "Blue Goose"
BIG 3 = PCV w/ Ign/Cobra Slip-ons/Thunder Air Kit
Kuryakyn "Longhorn Offset Highway Pegs"
Air Hawk2 seat cusion/Remote Control for house
National Cycle Fender Tips//Utopia Back Rest
Gorilla Alarm/Strebel Air Horn/14 in. Dark Shield
Kaw Rear Speakers/Galfer Break Pads
Garmin GPS, RAM mounted on break reservoir
Chrome Mug Holder/Extra Chrome/Wrapped Pipes
Flags and Mounts from "Rumbling Pride"
Dunlop SP5000 Car Tire /AMSOIL & Filter
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-01-2011, 03:33 PM
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I found the simplest way to remove the Bezel around the ignition switch was to start at the other end, remove the two bolts under the drivers seat, then lift the tank 50mm-75mm (3")
that will pop the bezel out part way so you can grab it and remove it the rest of the way, then while someone has a hold of the rear of the tank, (or put something under it to hold it up, remove the breather pipe on the right rear of the tank, remove the fuelpump powerplug on the left side , then using a fine tip screw driver slide the red U clip down on the inline fuel pipe connector, that will allow you to slide off the fuel line, (have a good look with a torch as it would e easy to break the wee red plastic clip). if the motor has been running in the past 1/2 hour it will still be pressured and a little fuel (tablespoon) might spill but as its a forced suction system it cant leak further.then slide out the tank to the rear a little and lift away.

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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-01-2011, 06:55 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny View Post
I found the simplest way to remove the Bezel around the ignition switch was to start at the other end, remove the two bolts under the drivers seat, then lift the tank 50mm-75mm (3")
that will pop the bezel out part way so you can grab it and remove it the rest of the way, then while someone has a hold of the rear of the tank, (or put something under it to hold it up, remove the breather pipe on the right rear of the tank, remove the fuelpump powerplug on the left side , then using a fine tip screw driver slide the red U clip down on the inline fuel pipe connector, that will allow you to slide off the fuel line, (have a good look with a torch as it would e easy to break the wee red plastic clip). if the motor has been running in the past 1/2 hour it will still be pressured and a little fuel (tablespoon) might spill but as its a forced suction system it cant leak further.then slide out the tank to the rear a little and lift away.
Thanks guys appreciate the come back,sounds good!!!
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-03-2011, 06:00 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidsheek View Post
Well Eric I've had the tank off several times now but I"ll never forget the first time. The hardest part is taking off the "ignition switch cover". The manual just says remove it, doesn't say how. The "Ignition Switch Cover" is the round peace that has all the words on it. The best way I found to remove it is to have 2 puddy knives. I use a cloth over each and insert at 3 & 9 O'Clock between ignition switch cover and the "Cover" (the manual calls it). Then pry up until it uncatches. The first time you will think you are going to break it. But it will come out.
Then it's the two little bolts and a nut. Cover off. Then the two larger tank bolts. I use a short 2x4 to prop up the tank (where the 2 bolts were) while I disconnect the fuel pump lead connector, fuel hose and last the breather hose on the right rear.
If you want, you can call me = 904-2695881
David
Thanks David for the help It all came apart and went back togather without a hitch Now just still trying to find some ratttles! Eric
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-03-2011, 06:11 PM
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Thanks David for the help It all came apart and went back togather without a hitch Now just still trying to find some ratttles! Eric
Did you end up taking the plug after all? Boy it's amazing reading about some of these guys having a clanking noise at idle after it warms up. There is to many complaints of scoots having various kinds of rattles and clanks. It concerns me that this flagship bike should have been tested more before production. But of course it's to late for that.


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2009 Vulcan Voyager ABS/ my "Blue Goose"
BIG 3 = PCV w/ Ign/Cobra Slip-ons/Thunder Air Kit
Kuryakyn "Longhorn Offset Highway Pegs"
Air Hawk2 seat cusion/Remote Control for house
National Cycle Fender Tips//Utopia Back Rest
Gorilla Alarm/Strebel Air Horn/14 in. Dark Shield
Kaw Rear Speakers/Galfer Break Pads
Garmin GPS, RAM mounted on break reservoir
Chrome Mug Holder/Extra Chrome/Wrapped Pipes
Flags and Mounts from "Rumbling Pride"
Dunlop SP5000 Car Tire /AMSOIL & Filter
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-03-2011, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
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Did you end up taking the plug after all? Boy it's amazing reading about some of these guys having a clanking noise at idle after it warms up. There is to many complaints of scoots having various kinds of rattles and clanks. It concerns me that this flagship bike should have been tested more before production. But of course it's to late for that.
Checked rear plug looked allright,goint to take off front exaust pipe chrome covers and ride it with them off to see if thats it later Im going threw the inside of the fairing with my hand to see if theres and thing loose in there then go threw exaust system bolts to make sure there all tight,thats it for now! PS The best way to describe the rattle I hear at 60mph is it sounds like those steel jingle bells!!!
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-04-2011, 08:55 AM
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I'll ask a silly question. Do you have a angel bell mounted on the bottom of the bike? My friend put one on mine when I picked it up from the dealer. I can hear it at the speed you mentioned.

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