copied and pasted from another forum.
Kawasaki's method to check the oil is "odd" because the motor is a semi dry sump engine with 2 sections in the crankcase that store the oil. 1. The section below the crankshaft and 2. the transmission. These two sections in the crankcase are partitioned off from each other... however the seal between them is not 100%, oil leaks between the sections when the bike is not running.
How it works.
When the engine is running oil is pumped from the tranny thru the oil filter, thru the engine and finally into the sump in the crankcase. The oil pump in the sump serves as a scavenger pump and pumps the oil back into the tranny and it starts all over again. So when the engine is running very little oil remains the crankcase sump.
Now when you shut the engine off, over time oil from the tranny seeps back into the sump. After long enough time half the oil will be in the sump and the other in the tranny. This allows oil to be in the sump to bath the crank shaft on cold starts.
So if you check your oil on a cold engine that has not been started you won't get an accurate reading because oil has seeped from the tranny and into the sump and the oil dip stick is in the tranny where half the oil has seep into the sump. In order to get an accurate reading you need to run the engine to pump all the oil out of the sump and back into the tranny.
Now that we know that we can check the oil cold. First use the procedure in the owners manual and make sure the oil is up to the full mark... add oil if necessary. Then the next day when the engine is cold start the engine for 15 seconds with the bike on the side stand. This is done to pump all the oil out of the sump into the tranny. Now wait 2-3 minutes to allow the oil to drain back into the tranny and check the oil level on the dip stick. Wherever the level is on the dipstick is the full mark on the engine cold and on the side stand. Mark it or remember where that level is and you can use the cold method and not burn you fingers using the Kawasaki's hot method.
The key here is consistency, check the oil on level ground and the bike angle on the side stand the same each time and you will get a consistent reading. What you can't compensate for is the ambient temperature. Oil does expand and contract, if you check your oil using this method you'll learn where the winter/summer level is on the stick. It doesn't really matter how you check the oil if you know where the full mark should be in your method and you're consistent.