Clutch Warmup - Kawasaki Vulcan Forum : Vulcan Forums
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-13-2011, 11:14 PM Thread Starter
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Clutch Warmup

What's the best way to get a clutch warm before riding in cold weather? If I let the engine warm up a couple minutes, pull in the clutch, and put the bike in 1st, it kinda "grabs" or "clunks" (seems like too hard a clunk). Only does it the first time I engage 1st gear. Should I: 1) let the engine warm up longer?, 2) hold the clutch in for a couple of minutes while engine warms up? or 3) what?

tks..........old

P.S. What I've been doing to minimize the effect is start the bike rolling before going to 1st gear (but there should be a better way)

'09 Kawasaki Vulcan 500 LTD

Last edited by old; 12-13-2011 at 11:17 PM.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-14-2011, 12:46 AM
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What's the best way to get a clutch warm before riding in cold weather? hold the clutch in for a couple of minutes while engine warms up?
Holding the clutch lever in seems to help some.My 454 is not bad if driven every day,but if left for a week or so,she'll really jump.It is common,as the clutch plates want to stick together.Synthetic oil helps somewhat,but doesn't eliminate it.

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-14-2011, 10:49 AM
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Holding the clutch lever in seems to help some.My 454 is not bad if driven every day,but if left for a week or so,she'll really jump.It is common,as the clutch plates want to stick together.Synthetic oil helps somewhat,but doesn't eliminate it.
I ran a couple changes of synthetic in my 500 and I didn't really notice a difference. To be perfectly honest, I've just slated the "clutch grab" syndrome to a "personality factor" of the 500s. I've never heard of a transmission failing due to it.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-14-2011, 12:25 PM
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The issue is that the clutch in compression will squeeze all the oil out from the plates and creates a sticksion to the steels. What I do is after I get the engine firing uniformly and stable, I will ease throttle up to about 1500 with clutch pulled and rap the throttle up to about 2500 / 3000 or so (stay moderate) several times, and this will allow the plates and disc's to free and pump oil. After this it will enter first gear reasonably clean, You will always notice some feel to it as the trans jumps into motion, but much milder of a shock.

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-14-2011, 03:52 PM
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Do the following:

1. Start engine and let warm up.
2. Push kill switch.
3. Put in first gear and hold clutch in.
4. While sitting on seat, rock back an forth until you hear the "clunk". You can both hear and feel this happen.
5. While still in gear and holding in the clutch, turn off kill switch and start engine.
6. Ride off into the cool morning air "jump free".

This method GREATLY reduces drivetrain shock on that first start.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-14-2011, 09:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRUISERDON View Post
The issue is that the clutch in compression will squeeze all the oil out from the plates and creates a sticksion to the steels. What I do is after I get the engine firing uniformly and stable, I will ease throttle up to about 1500 with clutch pulled and rap the throttle up to about 2500 / 3000 or so (stay moderate) several times, and this will allow the plates and disc's to free and pump oil. After this it will enter first gear reasonably clean, You will always notice some feel to it as the trans jumps into motion, but much milder of a shock.

This sounds like a plan, I got to try it
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-14-2011, 10:53 PM Thread Starter
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This sounds like a plan, I got to try it
Me too. Gonna try em' both!

'09 Kawasaki Vulcan 500 LTD

Last edited by old; 12-14-2011 at 10:56 PM.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-16-2011, 03:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sfair View Post
Do the following:

1. Start engine and let warm up.
2. Push kill switch.
3. Put in first gear and hold clutch in.
4. While sitting on seat, rock back an forth until you hear the "clunk". You can both hear and feel this happen.
5. While still in gear and holding in the clutch, turn off kill switch and start engine.
6. Ride off into the cool morning air "jump free".

This method GREATLY reduces drivetrain shock on that first start.
You can do this WITHOUT warming up the engine first.

The bike should always be parked in gear anyway. When you move your bike to where you are going to start / warm it up, (I keep my bike in the garage ant roll it out before starting) just pull in the clutch with the bike in gear and rock it back and forth. The clutch will break free and then no clunk when you put it in gear to ride off. I do this EVERY time I start up after the bike has been sitting overnight or longer.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-30-2011, 09:07 AM
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clutch clunk

Thanks for the tips. The startoff clunk has always bothered me.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-03-2012, 03:07 PM
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Sticking clutch

07 VN2000 Classic LT with 35,000 miles. Clutch will not disengage at stops. Once killed the engine when I used the brakes to stop. No time to hit neutral. Either that or hit the car in front. Usually sticks but not to that extreme. Hit revs and can hear it disengage. Back to idle and can hear and feel it engage. Shop took it apart and could find no problem. Cleaned plates and put it back together. No fix, same as usual. Do I just need to replace the clutch plates?
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