Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Somewhere near Parkville, MO
The problem with the 900 IS the lack of adjustment on the clutch lever. All the adjustments just take up slack in the cable, which can be useful for your problem. You can let out slack to where it feels comfortable for you. Now the difference between fully engaged and dis-engaged as you know isn't too far so you'll need to verify that you leave enough movement with the slack, but don't drive with it like that, you don't want the cable having so much slack that the barrel comes out of the clutch lever. There's only supposed to be about an 1/8 inch of slack, and that is important.
Now the only thing is to find out how to put a stop in the lever to take all the slack out of the movement. If you look underneath the clutch lever you'll see it has a big old tab sticking out that on top of stopping the clutch levers movement, it trips the Clutch Safety switch. Now that you know how much movement you need, and how much gap you've created, get some aluminum, you can buy a foot of 1x1/8 at most Lowe's and Home Depots. While you're there, you need to pick up some 4-40 bolts, tap and appropriate drill bit.
Carefully, drill that tab for a two bolts. Make a couple of similar size shims out of the Aluminum stock, transfer the hole pattern to them and drill and tap them for the bolts. You may only need one but maybe two shims, I'd drill a size larger in the handle and 1st shim using the outer shim to hold. Cut off excess bolt, check for operation and if it's all good, take them bolts out and put thread lock on em.
Now you're shims will close the switch and stop the movement, make sure that you have that movement of free play in the cable. If you DON'T have that movement the clutch will not always fully engage, which will leave you with a new clutch somewhere around, Oh I think it was 8000 miles when I lost my bike for a month while they calmly did the 4 hour operation.
Just make sure it has slack!