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post #1 of 67 (permalink) Old 04-04-2010, 06:47 AM Thread Starter
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question on oil

i have a 06 vulcan lt. i have been using the kawa chem 10w40 oil right from the kawasaki dealer. i was wondering if i could switch to the mobil 1 10w40 full synthetic oil. my bike has 6100 miles.

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post #2 of 67 (permalink) Old 04-04-2010, 07:23 AM
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Use the Mobil 1 Vtwin oil. It doesn't have the friction modifiers in it. Friction modifiers are not good for your clutch.
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post #3 of 67 (permalink) Old 04-06-2010, 04:27 AM
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It's recommended that the switch to fully syn oil should wait until after the first oil change or two. You should be okay to switch anytime at 6100 miles.

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post #4 of 67 (permalink) Old 04-06-2010, 09:41 AM
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Last I read, Harley was shipping from the factory with synthetic in their bikes. Break in tolerances may be a thing of the past, but all that's moot with my bike now that it's over 30,000 miles anyways.
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post #5 of 67 (permalink) Old 04-06-2010, 06:16 PM
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I just got my Amsoil 10-40 bike oil today and an Amsoil filter,,,,plan on changing my oil probably Thurs or Fri, raining till then. My LT has 3200 miles and this will be the 2nd change after the initial change at 600 miles. Let you all know how it goes.

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post #6 of 67 (permalink) Old 04-06-2010, 06:44 PM
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I use Valvaline 10w40 basic Motorcycle oil. I used synthetic in the past, But I've noticed the clutch slipping when using that type of oil. No more cluch slip since I switch to regular oil.
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post #7 of 67 (permalink) Old 04-07-2010, 06:33 AM
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Noticed Advance Auto Parts in my area has Mobil 1 bike oil on sale for $8 a quart. Both 10w-40 and 20w-50. Its usually about $10-$11 a quart. Still more than Rotella T 5w-40 thats about $25 a gallon but less than Amsoil. Not debating which is best, just passing on sale info.

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post #8 of 67 (permalink) Old 04-07-2010, 09:49 AM
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I saw the Mobil 1 bike oil (both weights: 10W-40 and 20W-50) at Walmart for some $8 and a change. Seemed like the everyday price.

I was trying to figure out the difference between the "Sports Bike" and "V-Twin" formulation. I was reading the back of the bottle as well as info at Mobil's website.

It seems that they assume that "air-cooled" V-twins run "hotter", that's why they recommend the 20-50. Still, I am inclined to go with the "Sports Bike" formula (10-40) as our Vulcans are water cooled and the manual also recommends this weight.

Do you guys think this is good thinking or would the V-Twin 20W-50 be better? I am in New York, so no extreme temperatures here. But I tend to ride year-round -- at least I was riding most of this past winter when there was no snow.

This was my first winter and I am at about 1,500 miles so with the next change I am switching to synthetic.

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post #9 of 67 (permalink) Old 04-07-2010, 10:35 AM
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I have 350 kms(218 miles) on my 09 900 classic and did the hard accelerating and hard decelerating engine brake in.Some say don't put synthetic in the first oil change and some say it doesn't matter.I was going to put the shell rotella t6 synthetic in this weekend am I safe in doing so????Thanks

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post #10 of 67 (permalink) Old 04-07-2010, 11:59 AM
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No oil expert here. I did an oil change at 2000 miles to make the change to synthetic. Some have said wait even longer and some have mentioned new bikes coming with synthetic. Do not know the right answer but figured things were pretty well broken in at 2000 miles. For my break-in I did an early oil change at 200 miles and followed the manual for break-in speed. Then let the dealer do the normal 600 mile service so the change to synthetic was actually my third oil change.

My Walmarts here do not carry Mobil 1 bike oil or Rotella synthetic so choice is either get it at auto parts stores, bike shops or direct order Amsoil from their dealer that posts in this site often.

Ron
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Last edited by TNCarters; 04-07-2010 at 12:03 PM.
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