Battery Post Extension - Kawasaki Vulcan Forum : Vulcan Forums
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-01-2010, 01:52 PM Thread Starter
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Battery Post Extension

Hey all,
I've got an odd question for you I just discovered last night. I finished installing my Stebel and I've ran into an unusual problem. With all the accessories running on the bike (horn, accent lights, power commander, etc.) my bolt on the negative battery terminal isn't long enough to catch the nut below to secure everything in. After work today, I'm going to try to head out and see if I can find another bolt (are those copper? brass?) to hold everything in, but I was thinking of another solution as well.

Does anyone know if there is an extension or hub of sorts where I can plug all the accessories and then run one wire to the battery? I was also thinking of just getting a small screw and bolt and securing them all together with a lead coming heading back to the battery.

Just fishing for ideas...
Thanks for the help.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-01-2010, 02:33 PM
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The negative side of the battery is the ground side. Those accessories should be able to be grounded to the chassis without even going back to the battery. I think?

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-01-2010, 02:59 PM
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I think JFarley is correct on the negative side. At least, I was able to do that with some driving lights I installed.

As for the other side, check out some of your marine stores like Overtons or West Marine. I used to work at Overtons and we sold what was called a terminal block for attaching multiple devices to common hot & ground. They had some that were simply two brass bars on a plastic back plate with several screws in each bar. Then there were some that were more waterproof and used spade connectors.

As for the battery bolt, I think they are just standard zinc coated steel.

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-01-2010, 03:01 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfarley View Post
The negative side of the battery is the ground side. Those accessories should be able to be grounded to the chassis without even going back to the battery. I think?
Yes they all can, but I have everything ran to the battery for one and I didn't look too hard for a bare bolt to ground everything on the frame.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-01-2010, 03:04 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeep Pirate View Post
I think JFarley is correct on the negative side. At least, I was able to do that with some driving lights I installed.

As for the other side, check out some of your marine stores like Overtons or West Marine. I used to work at Overtons and we sold what was called a terminal block for attaching multiple devices to common hot & ground. They had some that were simply two brass bars on a plastic back plate with several screws in each bar. Then there were some that were more waterproof and used spade connectors.

As for the battery bolt, I think they are just standard zinc coated steel.
The terminal block sounds the direction I was thinking. My other solution was to cut all the eyelets off the wires and connect them to one eyelet. I just didn't want to play that much with it by cutting good wire.

Thanks for the help.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-02-2010, 07:48 AM
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The terminal block is indeed a better option. Combining all your wires into one eyelet isn't the best way to go about it in terms of current flow.

If possible, run a hot wire to the terminal block and ground out to a nearby frame connection. An inline fuse may be in order depending on what you're hooking up.

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-02-2010, 08:31 AM Thread Starter
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I think i got the problem solved. I went to ACE hardware last night and bought a bolt with about 4 or 5 more threads on it. $.30 is probably the cheapest fix I've done to date!

Thanks for the input all.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-11-2010, 05:39 PM
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I hope you got a Stainless Steel bolt with a matching nut! But I guess you can always change it later. Whatever you do don't get zinc plated bolts. The zinc will act like a sacrificial metal and corrode first.

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-11-2010, 07:07 PM
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The negative wires can be hooked to the frame and will offer less of a chance of building resistance later down the road...

For the positive side wires best option would be to get all of those wires off the battery post, set a relay and in-line fuses rated for each device on the wire going to the device, and have just one feeder wire running from the battery to the relay.. also fuse it for the proper size of the wire (ie: #12 wire would be 20 amps max.) Relays can be found at just about any auto parts store and are fair cheap and you can get them rated for 30 amps (or whatever size you need), and most have spade terminals that crimp on's can be used on the wire ends. Having wires hooked directly to the battery can be dangerous as the battery amps up in the hundreds, and in a ground short will melt down some really large wire sizes... any wire coming off the battery directly should have a fuse as close to the battery as possible.

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Last edited by MusicmanM58; 02-11-2010 at 07:09 PM.
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