Pulley wobble - Kawasaki Vulcan Forum : Vulcan Forums
 
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 10-17-2009, 05:09 PM Thread Starter
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Pulley wobble

Well, after a myriad of postulation and reasoning for possible belt squeal/chirp fixes, I decided to haul everything apart and "fix" it.....After placing the bike on a lift, I checked the pulley run out; about a mill+/-......Considering the only other force on the housing bearing was attributed to the cush rubbers, I decided to take about a mill off the tits that push out on the coupling assembly when everything is put together and the belt is in place......took the test run and checked again....just under a mill.......so.....I now know that the cush rubber has a direct affect on the torque and pulley wobble. Now for the "fun" stuff......what is the main problem?....I have a pretty good friend who's a machinist and had him have a look....first thing he says to me..That's a 6205 bearing?? Why is a single race bearing used when you have an axial forces(cushs pushing on the housing)? There should be a couple angular singles or dual race bearing in there to compensate for the axial force. So, now I have an answer to my problem....And the fix.................There are no 15mm dual race bearings that can be placed in the housing.......It has to be machined. The closest I can come to 15mm is 20.6 in a dual race bearing......So I buy a 3205 A-2RS1 SKF(double row) bearing....It's in the shop and being milled to the proper specs to fit. When I get this back and installed I'll post a follow up....Hopefully this is the "fix"....I did notice that the '06 VN2000 uses dual bearings in that housing, so maybe this will work!! Aside from the housing being milled the spacer in the hub has to be milled and the collar between the swing arm and the hub bearing has to milled to the right length as well. Let ya know how this works out in a couple days or so!!
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 10-22-2009, 02:39 PM Thread Starter
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Well I finally got the hub and collars back......So, here's the story....not as "great" as I would like it to be, but a huge improvement over all.
The total measurement from the face of the left side collar to the face of the collar in the stock pulley hub is 63.6mm(2.505in) and I suppose could vary a bit from bike to bike.......The replacement bearing is 20.6mm(.810in)......the original is 15mm(.591in).....In order to facilitate the new bearing some milling had to be done to the hub to deepen hole where the bearing is pressed in. This was cut about 2.4mm(.096in) deeper. The new bearing being wider will cover the circlip grove, and that will have to be re-cut to keep the bearing from slipping out, however, I think that if some type of Locktite was used, the bearing would stay put. The grove is about a 1 mill and affects the depth that the hub seal will sit; about 2.3mm(.090in) higher in the hub. Still plenty to keep it in place in the hub. The final two issues are the shouldered collar in the hub bearing and the collar which is between the swing arm and the hub bearing......The inside collar will have to machined off to the same amount of the depth of the hole for the hub bearing, which in this case was 2.4mm(.096in) otherwise the hub will ride higher on the wheel. The other concern is the collar(spacer) which can be trimmed, or a new on made to the proper length(I used brass)....if you have a spare hub and collar you can use that and switch when reassembling. The collar length is about 36.4mm(1.433in) in my case......All of these measurements will vary depending on the machinist and how he fabricates this.
There is another condition which I did "not" foresee or appreciate when I started this, but showed its ugly head "after" I had assembled and snugged up things.............Inside the wheel between the two wheel bearings is another collar or spacer.......THAT little item, will contribute more than enough head ache IF, you are not careful in assembly.....Here's why.......The length of this spacer is just short enough, that it is loose between the bearings, and the diameter is just a bit bigger than the axle. If you assemble without using a good coating of grease, you may find that the spacer will not align properly and cock or angle, inside bearing face enough to force a slight wobble even though it "seems" to be torqued properly.......so use PLENTY of grease.........you can always wipe off the excess after. It will be hard to get this lined up properly.....This is what I did to "try" to get good alignment even though I couldn't be sure ....First, I cut about 1mm off the "tits" on the cushs.....I sprayed some WD-40 into the cush housing and seated them in....I sprayed the cushs and the pulley hub and forced the hub into the wheel recesses. You will have a hard time unless you "pull" the hub down into the wheel.....so I took the axle, coated it with a liberal amount of good HD grease passed it through the spacer and hub, wheel and the spacer on the right side of the wheel.....I placed enough large washers over the axle end to allow me to use the axle nut to force the hub into the wheel ......Turn this down fairly tight as it will help align the wheel spacer between the wheel bearings......once you've done that, take it apart, and place the wheel in position on the bike, attach the belt, and thread the axle through the parts, and snug down(don't spin the wheel just yet because you MIGHT disturb the inside wheel spacer -- I did and had to start over)....adjust for a slightly loose belt and align the axle adjusters equally(so the belt tracks to the outside of the pulley)....tighten to about 1/2 to 3/4 torque specs and spin the wheel by hand to check true......IF you've been careful you will have no wobble at all or maybe half a mill or less.....If you're satisfied with the results button everything down to spec....check again for proper alignment....
When I started on this project I had 1.5 to 2mm in pulley deflection and a squeak that was driving me nuts...... I have diminished this to about 1/2mm or less....NOT really happy with the outcome, BUT I did discover where additional problems might cause this wobble as well........Why the spacer in the wheel is left floating, and not designed in a way to transfer forces throughout the wheel through a continuous axis is any body's guess.....I am satisfied however that it's less that half a mill. Have a look at the OEM parts layout in the manual or on line to get a better feeling for which parts have been changed and aligned.....

Last edited by thewazard; 10-23-2009 at 06:42 AM.
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 10-23-2009, 05:29 AM
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What kind of bike are you re-engineering?

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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 10-23-2009, 06:01 AM Thread Starter
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Baitis -- 2008 900 Classic LT.....with about 16k km....
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 10-24-2009, 07:24 AM Thread Starter
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This is the next phase of the project......the wheel collar between the bearings is floating and in "some" cases prevents axial alignment and cocks the inside bearing race...which I suppose over time would cause a premature bearing failure.

Last edited by thewazard; 10-24-2009 at 07:27 AM.
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